[jb12string]

The more I think about the idea of getting a 1911, the more I like it. I am particularly fond of the idea getting a cheap one and building it up myself (just something special about it) What parts should I look at. I am thiking and extended slide release is a no brainer since I know I can't reach the factory one from my normal grip, what other parts should I consider? I am thinking I shouldn't need an ambidexterous saftey, since i am right handed and I will most likely be the only one shooting this gun (am I wrong?)

 

[Jack Monteith]

The problem with extended slide stops is that your thumb can hit them and lock the slide back when you don't want it to. If you get a WW II style Mil-Spec with the original tiny sights, I'd go for larger ones first, with a front sight measuring 1/10" or 1/8". Next I'd swap long-short triggers, if the one it comes with doesn't suit you. An arched or straight mainspring housing is another personal choice. A few extra magazines. The Metalform 45-293 is made the way JMB intended (almost) and is reliable in my old R-R. Bumper pads (45-293B) are nice.
https://www.metalformmagazines.com/Magazine.asp?RID=1#

There's lots more customizing you can do, but there's a lot of truth in this thread.
http://www.shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=8028

Bye
Jack

 

[jb12string]

That is good stuff. is the thumb on slide release a recoil thing? It just doesn't make sense to me that I have to rotate the pistol 90 degrees to be able to reach the slide release. I guess I could just slingshot the slide everytime

 

[ribbonstone2]

The problem with extended slide stops is that your thumb can hit them and lock the slide back when you don't want it to. If you get a WW II style Mil-Spec with the original tiny sights, I'd go for larger ones first, with a front sight measuring 1/10" or 1/8". Next I'd swap long-short triggers, if the one it comes with doesn't suit you. An arched or straight mainspring housing is another personal choice. A few extra magazines. The Metalform 45-293 is made the way JMB intended (almost) and is reliable in my old R-R. Bumper pads (45-293B) are nice.
https://www.metalformmagazines.com/Magazine.asp?RID=1#

There's lots more customizing you can do, but there's a lot of truth in this thread.
http://www.shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=8028

Bye
Jack

More or less agree with Jack.

Wife will use an extended slide release, but will thin it a good bit and cut the extention back a bit (needs be no longer than what it takes for me to reach it..any "extra" gets removed)...with her fingers, it's more about leverage.

None of mine wear an extended...I usually hit the release with my off hand thumb. Most think of that as a bad habit, but I've not found it to be costly in time (except in one hand shooting).

Tend to keep changes to a minimum.
1. more visible sights
2. Clean creep free trigger (doesn't have to be target-light, just crisp)
3. Jiggle mainspring housings and trigger lengths until you find the combination that works for you.

Guess i've beaten my hands into a 1911 shape...dehorning, beavertail grip safety, flares, etc. just seem to be lost on me....didn't do anything for my times, scores, or comfort.

Grips can be as fancy or as plain as you like...the grip pannels really have little to do with with recoil. HAve shot with no grips on the gun at all, and the senstation to your hand is pretty much teh same...grips do more for controling any tendency for the gun to torque or twist.

Recoil spring guides seem to be a waste as well. Have had people hand me the gun with one installed...then with the regular parts...and if there is any differnce, can't detect it by feel or score.


So...buy it...do the minimal things listed above...then invest the rest of your money into ammo and shoot it. The BEST $1000 gun is a $500 gun and $500 in ammo.

 

[jb12string]

So...buy it...do the minimal things listed above...then invest the rest of your money into ammo and shoot it. The BEST $1000 gun is a $500 gun and $500 in ammo.

How about a $500 gun and a $500 Dillon Progressive

 

[ribbonstone2]

How about a $500 gun and a $500 Dillon Progressive

Won't leave you any money for components, but the idea of a reloading is definately the best way to shoot better...cheaper ammo = more practice = better shooter. My old Square Deal hadn't been changed from 45acp/200gr.SWC for at least 12 years.


Started playing with .45's when there were few choices: you built it or had one of the few big names build it for you...so am a bit hard-headed about the 45acp. Aren't that many "must haves"...but in today's world seems like a lot of money is being spent outside of the areas that count.

Has become a match AND a fashion show.

 

[Jack Monteith]

I forgot to mention that the Kuhnhasen shop manual is an essntial for the DIY 1911 tinkerer.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...x?p=13805&title=Jerry+Kuhnhausen+SHOP+MANUALS

Bye
Jack

 

[jb12string]

I loaded 400 rounds for my 357 on a Rock Chucker one weekend, I swore I would never do that again, its just too time consuming and my shoulder was starting to get a little sore from all those press strokes

 

[JAGG]

All the 1911's that i ever shot hit what i was aiming at as issued ! You don't need all that extra stuff added on ! Just buy a target pistol instead ! JAGG

 

[LoneEagle]

You need good sights, a good trigger, plenty of mags and a lot of ammo. All the other gizmos people add to 1911s don't make them better, just different. I have to add an ambi-safety to my 1911s, and I think it's a good idea for anyone but it is a choice.

Anyway, enjoy your gun. Sean

 

[mikej]

jb,
Just a note or two, all my personal opinion of course. I like the flat v. arched mainspring housing. Try both if you can. The arched are uncomfortable to me, but your hand and feel are different. I also prefer the long trigger as it hits the joint of my trigger finger just where I like it. The previous advice about an extended slide release is spot on. If you reach slide lock in a gunfight or competition, it is much easier to grasp the rear of the slide and pull back and release than it is to search for the slide stop, and the extended ones tend to get in the way, too often when you don't want them to. A rowel type-"Commander"-style of hammer is my preference, as the other style bites the web of my hand. An Ed Brown extended beavertail is also a good idea, as is a Smith and Alexander flared mag well. Good high profile sights such as Bo-Mar, Heine or Novak are essential as well. Just a few ideas that I've implemented on all of my 1911's. Hope this helps.

 

[Jack]

Good sights and a good trigger pull are requirements, IMO.
Most of the other stuff is personal preference.
My 45 is basically stock- no extended anything, no beavertail, no ambidextrous anything. I prefer it that way. I like the arched mainspring housing, but I agree it's a good idea to handle both and see what you like.
I have never figured out the benefit of an extended recoil spring guide, other than to make disassembly more difficult
If you're starting with a mil spec 1911, you might want to have a match bushing and a longer link fitted- both can help accuracy if you have a loose 1911.
Truth is, once you have good sights and a good trigger pull, get some good magazines (not 7$ cheapies) and shoot a lot. You can always add other stuff later, if you think you need it.

 

[ribbonstone2]

Good sights and a good trigger pull are requirements, IMO.
Most of the other stuff is personal preference.
My 45 is basically stock- no extended anything, no beavertail, no ambidextrous anything. I prefer it that way. I like the arched mainspring housing, but I agree it's a good idea to handle both and see what you like.
I have never figured out the benefit of an extended recoil spring guide, other than to make disassembly more difficult
If you're starting with a mil spec 1911, you might want to have a match bushing and a longer link fitted- both can help accuracy if you have a loose 1911.
Truth is, once you have good sights and a good trigger pull, get some good magazines (not 7$ cheapies) and shoot a lot. You can always add other stuff later, if you think you need it.

I'm not even going to bad mouth the cheapie magazines...too much. For my fisrt .45, back when GI stuff was being sold for $3-$5 a pop, would buy 10, test them, and toss the 2 or 3 "bad" ones into the parts box. 30 years later, those 8 old mags were still working fine (recent envets made me buy the better new ones...betting the same 20-30% problem rate still applies).

We are not anti-1911, just trying to keep you on the simple path. Are a lot of ways to waste your money on modifications, bells, whistles but darned few of them actaully do anything useful.

 

[mattpair]

Well, another 1911 fan is born! They are quite an addiction if you let it get that bad. I have had a few different ones and for my taste the Springfield MilSpec (not the GI model) fits my needs best. The only mods I needed were more mags and more ammo. I like wilson combat mags and also chip Mccormick. Here is a good description of Springfield's different offerings, they get a little confusing in description:


WW2 (GI) Model: Pistol closely replicates the basic 1911A1 as used by the US military for seven decades. Features:

* high wall ("narrow") ejection port
* low profile GI sights
* lanyard loop on mainspring housing
* vertical cocking serrations on slide


Mil-Spec: Pre-dated the G.I. model, adds some popular features/upgrades

* stainless barrel and bushing (some models)
* loaded chamber indicator (some models)
* lowered and flared ejection port
* high profile 3-dot sights
* beveled magazine well
* loss of the lanyard loop on mainspring housing
* forward-raked cocking serrations on slide


Loaded: An upgrade from the Mil-Spec with even more of the most popular features/upgrades

* beavertail grip safety
* Novak sights
* ambidextrious thumb safety
* long 3 hole trigger
* full length guide rod (2-piece)
* front cocking serrations
* flat mainspring housing


The only add ons i'd do to a Milspec is a better trigger and possibly a beavertail grip safety

Check out this link to get a look at the milspec and other models
http://www.springfield-armory.com/prod-pstl-1911-ms.shtml

 

[jpattersonnh]

I'm not even going to bad mouth the cheapie magazines...too much. For my fisrt .45, back when GI stuff was being sold for $3-$5 a pop, would buy 10, test them, and toss the 2 or 3 "bad" ones into the parts box. 30 years later, those 8 old mags were still working fine (recent envets made me buy the better new ones...betting the same 20-30% problem rate still applies).

We are not anti-1911, just trying to keep you on the simple path. Are a lot of ways to waste your money on modifications, bells, whistles but darned few of them actaully do anything useful.

I have never modified any 1911 I have owned. Each has its own personality.
At one time, when I made money, I desided to get a custom 1911, a Wilson. I still own it, still shoot it. The only thing I have changed are the grips ( big hands). A tricked out 1911 is more work to maintain than a standard. Everything you add, or change often leads to more changes = $.
An as purchased 1911 will serve you well, parts are easier to replace and come by. Be careful, it can become as expensive and addictive as a 10/22 in the "customizing" area. Ribbonstone has given good advice! Just my thoughts. JP

 

[Cheezywan]

I don't own a 1911. If I did I would like to have an M-1 as an accessory. I think they would look good together.
Because I know I am in the "mainstream" of the shooting world, I think this is the last word on the subject .
Cheezywan

 

[rhino57]

JB,
Just something to consider.

I would go for the ambi safety.
I am right handed and had my shoulder rebuilt about 2 months ago. Had to carry my Beretta because of the ambi safety and ambi mag release. Had never thought of it before but it made a difference in wether I carried while my right arm was down. Gave me a chance to work on my left handed shooting which needed it and still does. Made me look at things a little different.

GB,
Greg

 

[jb12string]

I could always add an ambi saftey if needed later. Since sights and trigger seem to be the buzz words what are some good sight? adjustable? Also, what do I need to get a good trigger pull

 

[mattpair]

I could always add an ambi saftey if needed later. Since sights and trigger seem to be the buzz words what are some good sight? adjustable? Also, what do I need to get a good trigger pull

I like the Novak adjustable night sights.

 

[jb12string]

Ok, i need to clarifiy, what are some good sights that won't require milling the slide