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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys! I'm about to buy a Winchester® Coyote Light 22-250 specifically for long range shooting. Which brand scope and what power would you guys buy on a $500 budget? I don't plan on shooting anything less than 100 yards out. Do I need a mil-dot scope Thanks!
 

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Winchester light.

Hi Guys! I'm about to buy a Winchester® Coyote Light 22-250 specifically for long range shooting. Which brand scope and what power would you guys buy on a $500 budget? I don't plan on shooting anything less than 100 yards out. Do I need a mil-dot scope Thanks!
Hi dude
That win light will be great to carry but long range shooting is usually the territory of
heavy barrell guns. Kinda depends what ur shooting at too 300 is a great shot on a rabbit ,easy on a hog. Bushnell 3200/ series are good . 4 to 12 or 5to15 perhaps.Mil dots are used to calculate your range .bit tricky you might be better suited by a rangefinder. Good Luck
 

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Burris Fullfield II 4.5-14x 40mm w/ballistic plex reticle. Should be obtainable for $425-$475. A friend has one on a 243 Win for varminting and he does well with it. He did have one on an 8mm Rem Mag and it took him quite a few years to rattle it apart! You should have no such concern with the 22-250.

I don't have one (4.5-14x), but have a 3-12x 50mm black diamond on a 17 Rem, and a 3-12x 56mm Burris Laserscope on a 243 Win. I have other Burris FFII's and signature series scopes on big game rifles. Never had a lick of trouble with any of them, so I think they're a good value.

You might find suitable scopes from Leupold or Nikon or others that may provide you the power desired in your price range. Redfield Revolution is now a Leupold product and they're being heavily marketed. I can't comment on them...hope we get some reports on them soon.
 

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that barrel weight profile will be fine as long as you're not hitting the P-Dog patches, then i'm afraid the barrel heat will destroy you. 300 yrds with a med sporter weight barrel is no problem if you're hunting yote or the likes and have a decent barrel to start with.

edit: ok i see you are wanting to hit the P-Dog patches, might want to go heavier, especialy with a barrel burner like a 22-250
 

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Jim has a valid point, although if you can restrain yourself in not overheating your barrel with too much shooting, I'd recommend going light or medium on the barrel. I'd much rather have a 'hiking' rifle that's not such a burden to carry from spot-to-spot. I mostly am hiking from spot-to-spot after rockchucks where volume of shooting isn't on the order of p-dog towns. If you're mostly driving to different p-dog towns, the heavy may allow a bit more shooting before you have to stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys!

I'll only make it to the P-dog town once a year at most. I'll probably go with the lighter barrel just because I'll be packing it around a bit looking for the coyote or occasional crow in my neck of the woods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mil-dots calculate range??

Hi dude
That win light will be great to carry but long range shooting is usually the territory of
heavy barrell guns. Kinda depends what ur shooting at too 300 is a great shot on a rabbit ,easy on a hog. Bushnell 3200/ series are good . 4 to 12 or 5to15 perhaps.Mil dots are used to calculate your range .bit tricky you might be better suited by a rangefinder. Good Luck
I thought they were used to site in a gun at various yardage. I would need a range finder to get an idea of how far the target is so I'd no which "dot" to put on it.
 

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Midway has the Nikkon Buckmasters 6-18x40 on sale for $299. It has the tall turrets and mil-dot reticle. Very nice. I have one on my Rem 700 VSF and I like it.


 

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Thanks, John. That's Cabela's Elite shooting rest. It certainly is not a top-of-the-line rest, but it is more than adequate for accuracy at the range. One thing I like about it is the vertical micro-adjust knob seen under the rifle. THe rest costs about $80 or $90. The thin, hard rubber pad helps keep the rest from sliding backward and from premature wear of the rubber feet on the rest.

The scope is what's nice, though. :D And...it comes with a write-up on the Mil-Dot system, how it works and how to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yep, that vertical adjust knob

The vertical adjustment is what really stood out. I like the idea of adjusting the know rather than sliding the rifle on the front rest to adjust elevation.

I'm going to look a little closer at that Nikon. It's a bit stronger than the Burris.
 

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Yep, I still haven't figured mine out. Not that it's so tough to do, rather I have not taken or made the time to study and learn it. The dots are very similar to Leupold's (et al) BDC reticles. Once you know how the rifle shoots with each load, you can pretty much use the vertical dots with reasonable reliance. With my 25-06, at 360 yards, putting the 1st dot below the crosshairs on target leaves the impact about an inch or so below point of aim. In other words, one dot takes care of x-amount of bullet drop.

I didn;t know the Nikkon was stronger than the Burris. Do you mean in magnification? I can;t see much difference in manufacture quality between the two - maybe one has a slight edge over the other, I don;t know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Stretch. Burris is either 4.5 x 14 or 6.5 x 20. I'm thinking that 6 x 18 would hit it right in the middle. I've "heard" that more magnafication isn't always better. I do like the hollow dots on the Nikon though.
 

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Yes, magnification isn't everything. When you dial out to 18 or 20x, you'll begin to see your "heartbeat", if you catch my drift. When you start getting up to 20x and beyond magnification, "affordable" scopes might not cut the mustard, leaving you dialed down in the affordable range. Quality of optics at that magnification equals money. Anybody can build an affordable 24x scope, for example, but not many would be happy when dialed up with that scope.

My Nikkon doesn;t have hollow dots - they're solid. I was just shooting it today with some 60gr Bergers. Hmmmm....now you got me wanting to pull that rifle and check the dots!

I really appreciate the Nikkon's tall turrets, and it comes with tactical screw-ons (which I haven;t used). When you unscrew the turret caps, your incremental markings and direction of adjustment faces you, so you can do it all with the rifle still shouldered and with your fingers (tool-less)...for whatever that's worth. 1/4" Click adjustment too, that's become important to me recently. My Leupolds now, they don;t click and you need a screwdriver. Close attention during adjustment is required. Of course...why wouldn;t it be anyway?
 
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