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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody out there got a finishing reamer for a 256 win mag they would like to get rid of?Just got the bug to make one up
 

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I always thought the little .256 Magnum was a fine cartridge. My belief is the lack of rifle chambering it was responsible for it's demise. I've only knew of two rifles chambered for iit one a Marlin Model 62 and one built on the M1 Carbine. Too bad no bolt actions were made for it or it might be still around.:(
 

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Our poster is in Australia I think. If that's correct it may cut down on his options....
 

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Well, the CH 4D people hunted in Oz last year. If they go again they could deliver!

The problem with the Marlin Model 62 is the over long chamber. You need to measure a reamer to insure it will not cut an over long chamber from rim to shoulder.

Also the 357 Magnum brass is rated just under 256 WM pressure so brass life is short in the extra long chambers. With a close tolerance on the chamber case life is good. Forum member Greg Mushial had a Marlin 1894 barreled for the 256 WM and he had good case life. My Marlin is lucky to get four shots when working at the higher published load figures. If I back off to just above 25-20 WCF high velocity stuff I have pretty good case life.
 

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Played with a pair of Marlin 62's, one in .256 (a favorite) and one in .30carbine (and I have to say, the most accurate .30carbine i ever got a chance to shoot).

You identified the .256wcf's major problem in the Marlin 62: the chambers were cut long. Now understand, the actual headspace is set by the thickness of the rim as it is a rimmed case. The action is too "springy" for pure neck sizing to work. Add to that, it is possible to have a round just barely chamber, but NOT lock the bolt (and it stings the crap out of your hand when that lever opens in a real big hurry..and then the case head runs around the range floor like a crazed big wheel).

With full power loads, best you can do is size a little less than full length and toss the cases after their 4th loading (or get cheap and use them with lite caset bullets at sub sonic speeds until they get lost, stepped on, or finally seperate). Best course is to size only until the action firmly locks closed.

I'd form mine from UNFIRED .357 brass by using a 7.62X25 (either a .30 mauser or .30Tok die) and working only with the top of the ram stroke. Loss in forming was about 4%. when imperial Die Wax was used as a lube.


Had two friends with .256 (both passed away) one with Merrill and one with a Hawkeye. He made a set of 2 dies to take .251" 50gr. FMJ's to a spitzer (or a spitzer FMJ if you fed them in backwards). A whole lot of those home made bullets made the trip downrange, and a good number of them splattered small varmits.

****ed shame...is a wonderful round for Martini Cadet conversion, and the marlin 62's tuened out to be more accurate then most people gave them credit for.
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Alwayes wanted to really test a Universal "Ferret"...basically a M1 30carbine converted to .256WCF. May not have been varmit accurate, but I bet it would have been a whole lot of fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
256win mag

yes I am in Australia was hoping to get a second hand reamer if anybody knows of one for sale
we all like to cut the costs down to a minnimum so we can spend more on shooting these toys:D
 

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256 win mag or 221x25

[Finaly got my new rifle back from the gunsmith,I decided to go rimless and use 221 cases.
First time at the range 5 shots in 1 inch @ 100, 5shots in 1.75 inches @ 200 sighted 2 inch high at 100 hit 11/2 to2 inches low .I am very happy now got to fine tune loads.

Bob:D
 

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Mine is an 1892 Winchester.

Here's how I form my brass.

I annealed the brass (Starline) by standing them up in flat bottomed enameled metal dish pan with just enough water to cover them when on their side. I heat the rim with a propane torch in a dark room until the top just starts to glow red and then use a bamboo skewer to tip them over into the water to cool them. I do them one at a time, tipping them into the water as I go.

I first run them through a polished seater die (plug removed). I polished the inside of the die with a bore mop and some flitz on a drill. I polish all my non carbide dies this way. Then you run them through the sizing die.


I lost 2 of my first 100 by using spray on Hornady One Shot as a case lube. I then switched to RCBS Case Slick and haven't lost one since. I understand Imperial is the way to go, but can't find it around here.
 

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Mine is an 1892 Winchester.

Here's how I form my brass.

I annealed the brass (Starline) by standing them up in flat bottomed enameled metal dish pan with just enough water to cover them when on their side. I heat the rim with a propane torch in a dark room until the top just starts to glow red and then use a bamboo skewer to tip them over into the water to cool them. I do them one at a time, tipping them into the water as I go.

I first run them through a polished seater die (plug removed). I polished the inside of the die with a bore mop and some flitz on a drill. I polish all my non carbide dies this way. Then you run them through the sizing die.


I lost 2 of my first 100 by using spray on Hornady One Shot as a case lube. I then switched to RCBS Case Slick and haven't lost one since. I understand Imperial is the way to go, but can't find it around here.
Always thought if the good gun fairy would grant me one wish it would be to have a 92 with pretty wood, CC reciever, 1/2 round/1/2 oct. 22" bbl, pistol grip and half mag. in 256mag.:p
 

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That would be one fancy Model 65! The 22” barrel would give about perfect balance and allow a long fore arm without looking out of balance. The long forearm helps with off hand snap shooting. I want a Lyman or Redfield receiver sight so I am able to adjust elevation quickly with a coin.
 

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That would be one fancy Model 65! The 22” barrel would give about perfect balance and allow a long fore arm without looking out of balance. The long forearm helps with off hand snap shooting. I want a Lyman or Redfield receiver sight so I am able to adjust elevation quickly with a coin.
Agreed! There's a 65 deluxe, 218, on Gunsamerica for about $1500, or was. Man, what a beauty, but more of a display item.
Others around $800. But for some reason, no 256WM.:eek: Guess the GGF just ain't listen'n.
Willy54...sounds like ya done good. 5 shots in a [email protected] first time out. Sounds like ya done REAL good. Just curious. Varmints, small game or targets? What's your game?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
256 win mag or 221x25

I decided to make up this rifle for foxes,rabbits ,ferral cats and wild dogs on smaller properties so the noise level was tame enough so as not to upset the greenies around here to much.
Bob
 

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Beartooth forum member Greg Mushial has worked extensively with the low velocity 256WM. Gregs data is reliable with no surprises.
At the upper right bar on the link you will see Oregon Trail Data & other data. Click on Other dat - look in the left side bar for 256WM

http://www.gmdr.com/

Be certan to click on the Oregon Trail data and at the top of the left bar look at the Context info on data bar - a short read.

I will enjoy discussing this with you.
 
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