300 Win Mag
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Nice rifle and caliber! I recently added a 300 Win. mag. to my collection. Mines a Remington 798 with laminate stock.
A deer load I've developed is 80.0grs of H4350 behind a 130gr Barnes X bullet(as always, safe in my particular rifle only). Muzzle speed is just over 3500fps and groups just under 1" at 100 yards. Sighted 3" high at 100 yards it's zero at 300 yards.
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A deer load I've developed is 80.0grs of H4350 behind a 130gr Barnes X bullet(as always, safe in my particular rifle only). Muzzle speed is just over 3500fps and groups just under 1" at 100 yards. Sighted 3" high at 100 yards it's zero at 300 yards.
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6,280 Posts
Hmmm varmint and 300 WM never seemed to go together...
wont use less than 180 gr pill in a 300wm. i zero at 200 and use a mil dot reticle,or a range finder for them longer shots.troble with shooting at 400- 500 yds is VERY,VERY FEW shooters can accrurately guess range at that distant to compensate for ever increasing bullet drop. i will admit that if your shooting large animals only,than a longer pbr would be ok for you.-personally i like the 200 zero,because in the field.most of my shots are between75-250.--if you set up for long range-test your gun on targets,to find where your gun actually shoots and stick to one good load,that you know like the back of your hand, -good shooting and cheers mate.
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251 Posts
I agree with gunho1954 and Tang. I own two ,300 win mag, a custom mauser and a ssteele ruger, and on both I only hand load exclusively 180 grain pills I feel that the best tip for the caliber, the ligther tips at speed in excess of 3100 fps and up to 3500 first will burn out the barrel too fast and second they have tendency to explode on the game unless you use bullet that are very well constructed to to widstand that speed.
In regard to the 400/500 yrd shoot unless you practice at the actual distance and all distance in between in a serious way forget about.., but practice, and practice again will give you the confidence and make you sucessfull. The distance you do not have to guess, usually game that far are not spoken and either stationary or moving slow and you have plenty of time to use one of the several gadget on the market that will give you the exact distance.
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roberto
In regard to the 400/500 yrd shoot unless you practice at the actual distance and all distance in between in a serious way forget about.., but practice, and practice again will give you the confidence and make you sucessfull. The distance you do not have to guess, usually game that far are not spoken and either stationary or moving slow and you have plenty of time to use one of the several gadget on the market that will give you the exact distance.
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roberto
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1,783 Posts
My suggestion is to get your loads chronographed, whatever you choose to try. If you really want to shoot out to 500 yards you need two things; the exact distance and your exact trajectory.
Get a rangefinder, and then once you have your calculated trajectory from your chronograph readings and ballistic charts actually tested (at say 100 yard intervals out to your "maximum" distance) you should be good to go. Any less preparation will be just wishful thinking, and will result in misses, or worse, wounding.
I would never choose a .300 for varminting, but it is a very fine big game round.
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1,106 Posts
Good advice.
But, IMHO, you need one more thing: a quality scope with good, finger-adjustable turrets. Beats the crap out of Kentucky windage and elevation guesstimation.
BTW....the .300 win makes a fabulous groundhog gun for those hard-to-reach places.
I've spent many an hour laying behind a Model 70 .300 Win Mag on a bi-pod with a 6-18 Burris on top. The 'hogs hated me. A couple pieces of advice on varminting with a .300 Mag:1: Have a good relationship with the landowner and hope he's got good neighbors. It's not like you're busting off .22-.250 rounds.
2: Start out with a good (high B.C.) 150, 165 or 180 gr. bullet if you plan to shoot past about 450 yards. The Nosler Ballistic Tips are just about perfect if your gun shoots them well.
Have fun!! You can get some really impressive results on little critters with the .300 Mag.
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242 Posts
With my particular rifle only, no excess pressure signs with 80.0grs of H4350 behind a 130gr X bullet, so it's possible to get more speed.
At the current muzzle speed of just over 3500fps and a 300yd zero, the bullet drop is only 8" at 400yds and 20" at 500yds. Maybe I can improve on this.
X bullets hold together very well at high impact speeds.
As for the barrel, oh well...I will eventually have a reason to get it changed out with a premium quality barrel.
At the current muzzle speed of just over 3500fps and a 300yd zero, the bullet drop is only 8" at 400yds and 20" at 500yds. Maybe I can improve on this.
X bullets hold together very well at high impact speeds.
As for the barrel, oh well...I will eventually have a reason to get it changed out with a premium quality barrel.
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3,956 Posts
Atta boy !
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3,956 Posts
Mine liked 80.5gr of Retumbo, with a CCI250 and a 200gr Gameking.
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131 Posts
I've got mine set to 3" high at 100 yards. With 165 gr. handloads at 3200 fps. that stretches my point of aim almost to 400 yards. That's my open ground caribou load.
I found out about some guys who were experimenting with ~50-60 gr. .224 bullets in sabots out of a 300 win mag. They were exceeding 5000 fps. with some of the loads, but accuracy wasn't the greatest. I'm thinking about getting some to play around with. It's a good way to experiment with extreme velocity loads without having to worry about barrel damage.
I found out about some guys who were experimenting with ~50-60 gr. .224 bullets in sabots out of a 300 win mag. They were exceeding 5000 fps. with some of the loads, but accuracy wasn't the greatest. I'm thinking about getting some to play around with. It's a good way to experiment with extreme velocity loads without having to worry about barrel damage.
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1,783 Posts
That makes no sense to me, although I know you "generalized" the numbers a bit. First of all, I can drive 165 grain bullets faster from my .300 WM. Secondly, if you are 3" high at 300 yards, you will be a foot and a half high at 100 yards. That strikes me as an absurd way to sight a hunting rifle.
As for sabots and high velocity, I think the experimenting has all been done, and essentially failed. It doesn't matter how fast you miss things.
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131 Posts
LOL, sorry gents. I was distracted while I was typing that. I meant 3" high at 100 yards.
I stay around 3200 with my 165's because accuracy starts to drop off when I push them faster. (I think they are A frames - I'm in Afghanistan and don't have my load records here.)
I'm off to sight in my M4 6 feet high at 20 feet now, so I can hit a moving target at 4 miles.
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