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Howdy folks,
Does any here shoot or have knowledge about the 357-44 bain&davis cartridge? I am considering getting a barrel in this caliber for my contender. I would like something out of the ordinary and this would fit the bill nicely. Are any dies needed to form the case except a full length sizer? Just curious if anyone has any information please let me know.
Thanks
Chris
 

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Have shot one revolver in 357/44BD, but not in a Contender, in a converted S&W Mod. 28. The T/C should avoid the pit-falls of the revolver conversion. It worked well enough so long as the chambers were kept clean, if not, then the case set-back would lock of the revolver's rotation. Vel. gains in the revolver were worthwhile, but the forcing cone took a beating.

MUCH better round to use in a closed breech system like a T/C.

So long as I used new brass, could form in the full length die. the only "tricks" were as follows:
1. Strip the decapping rod from the sizing die (if you crumple a case, it traps the rod).
2. Set the die out in the bress so that at full ram travel, it just starts to size the neck.
3. Size..withdraw..redistribute lube...turn die in 1/2 turn...size...withdraw...redistribute lube...turn die in 1/2 turn...keep going until you fully size (Imperial Die Wax is the best lube I've found for drastic resizing). Idea here is to work were the leverage is compounded to your greatest advantage (top of the ram stroke).
4. Once all are sized, re install the decapper and run all the formed cases though one more time.
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Was a little flash of interrest a few years back when some Desert Eagals were chambered in .357/44BD.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the information. I have not tried forming any brass before. I copied this and put it up for later. I would really like to try out a revolver in this. But I think the conversion would cost a little or lot more than I am wanting to spend on this. One more question. How is the recoil? Should be a little less than a 44 mag?
 

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Recoil is less than a .44...may be less than a .41...call it about the same as a .357Max. A lot of that depends on the weight of the gun, but only heavy weights have the cylinder thickness to stand the conversion.

Personally, think the revolver idea isn't worth the effort...mine wasn't. In a sealed breech pistol, the vel. gains may be worth it, but all in all, it's pretty close to the .357max. In a single shot, would be bettr to just lengthen the chamber to .357max.

I don't even know who does the conversion any more...assume someone out there does, but I haven't a name to give you. Mine was done locally, but a gunsmith I trusted (and he passed away a few years ago).
 

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I did a .357 B&D on a Ruger Blackhawk and it worked well (case setback was never a problem). The gun has seen over 1,000 full-house loads and the forcing cone has no appreciable wear (no abnormal flame cutting either). Maybe I just got lucky.

Lee Martin
www.singleactions.com
 

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The Blackhawk would be the logical revolver for conversion here, without a doubt. You have no extractor star to modify, adding expense, and the revolver is of a strong design. The Bisley model would be a prime candidate with it's longer barrel and extra weight for keeping recoil pleasant. It would be a simple rechamber from what I can tell. You could always tell Ruger you lost your original 357 cylinder and have a spare fitted before or after you had the modificaton done.
 

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357-44

I know this is a late reply but i have not been here in a while.I have the 357-44 BD and the 357 max in a contender along with other 35 bores.The 357-44 is not one of my favorite barrels any of the others i have will out shoot it.I keep mine just to have it hate selling a barrel.The 357 max ,35 rem or the 357 herrett will out perform it in my opinion.Forming brass is easy but mine wont shoot anything over 158 grains.Good luck.
 

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wheelgun,

If you feel adventurous someday, have your B&D Contender reamed deeper to accept 445 Super Mag brass instead. Simply use your B&D sizer to form cases with the shoulder in the correct place. If you need sizing further down the case at times, use a 44 Mag carbide sizer to size this area.

Increases powder capacity by a decent margin. The shoulder/case junction will be at the approximate length of a normal 44 Mag case. You'll be able to chuck heavier bullets too.


Regards
 

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Wheelgun,
Hope you don't mind my reply here for the benefit of others.

I haven't done one of these....yet. Currently working on a lengthened 357 Max on 50R brass.

With regard to lengthening the B&D, you would have to modify a B&D reamer, removing the rim boring section. Or you could have say Mike Bellm do it. Unfortunately, the wait would be considerable.

Another option would be Mike Sirios at OTT. He doesn't use any reamers for chambering. He likes to have a dummy round and/or a chamber drawing. He can cut ANY dimensions you would want for a cartridge. Essentially this is a straight sided case with virtually no taper.


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357x44 Bain & Davis.......

I have been shooting a B&D in a Bullberry Custom barrel in the Contender since about 1991 and it shoots great. Case forming is super easy, no forming dies needed. Run virgin 44 mag brass into a B&D sizing die one time and out comes a formed case ready to reload. Once fired cases will work also but I have lost 1 or 2 out of 100 sometimes when using them. Most load data goes up to 158 gr. but I have been shooting 180's in both of my B&D's. I got a few 180 grgc LBT type bullets from a guy on this board and they shoot better than most 180's in mine. I have a Marlin at the 'Smith's' getting converted to B&D and should be back in a few weeks. 1 to 1 1/2 inch at 100yds from a 12 inch pistol is doing ok by me.
Plus'es
Easy to form
Easy to load
Accurate
Different
Can take Whitetail
And IMO fun as **** to shoot

Minuses
Lack of 180 gr load data for most folks
Not reccommended for Elephants

Bottom line is if you want it get it and enjoy it.

Steve E............
 

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357 B&D............

I can't find some of my notes but the last time I Chroned any of the 180 Gr. bullets I think they were blazing out at about 1268 fps with a healthy dose of 296. That was a 180 gr. Hornady silly wet bullet. My Chrony died a quick death in it's sleep one summer a few years ago. No I didn't shoot it, it died on its own in the closet but when I have access to one again I would like to send these 180 gr. LBT style bullets across it.

Steve E......
 

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Sometime back I had inquired of Bain and Davis what revolver seemed to be the most favored for a .357/.44 rechambering and they noted that alot of folks were purchasing the Ruger Blackhawk Convertible and having the 9mm cylinder rebored..that way the cylinder is already timed to the revolver and one has a .357 for lighter duty(38 special,snake loads,etc.).
 

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crookedshot said:
Howdy folks,
Does any here shoot or have knowledge about the 357-44 bain&davis cartridge? I am considering getting a barrel in this caliber for my contender. I would like something out of the ordinary and this would fit the bill nicely. Are any dies needed to form the case except a full length sizer? Just curious if anyone has any information please let me know.
Thanks
Chris
I had a Ruger Blackhawk cylinder converted to ..44-.357 B&D by Bain & Davis when it was first introduced. There isn't much to recommend it, as many newer cardridges are better performers. The .357 Maximum replaced it for me in IHMSA shooting, and would shoot 1" groups at 50 yards with maximum loads of H4227 and 180 grain bullets. The .357 Herrett is also better, but the recoil is a killer in the Contender - wear a glove or bleed. Forming the cases for the B&D is easy, but the Maximum is easier with factory cases available. My opinion is that the B&D is obsolete and should pass into the history books.

Axlenut
 

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hey crookedshot you might want to check out gary reeders offerings before you go to the 357/44BD round. Gary offers a couple of flavors of straight walled pistol cases necked to 357.
 
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