RJ,
Sounds like you got a bad batch or one stored in direct sun or near other heat source. When a round fires the primer cup acts like a little piston, pushing itself out of the primer pocket and the brass forward until the headspace determinant stops it. It is reseated when pressure from the powder pushes the head back against the breech, but that primer piston push back starts even before the firing pin retracts, so it flows the cup over the pin by the added amount of any extra headspace in the gun. That's why the fired ones are always marked a little deeper than a struck primer that didn't ignite.
Since your other brands all work, I doubt you are having the most common problem that causes this, which is the primer not seated all the way in. More likely its the result of bad storage or a defect. I'd call Winchester about it. They might be willing to test and replace. They are not hard primers and my Goldcup ran through a case of 5,000 one year when I couldn't get my usual Federals. It did so with no faults, and that gun's strike is lighter than my Redhawk's. Winchester made some primer changes since then (did for small rifle, anyway), but toward the more sensitive side, not less so.
Zoar,
I would stick with magnum primers for 296/H110 as recommended above. This is for a safety reason. That powder is normally run on the ragged edge of its ability to sustain burning, which is why they warn you not to drop the published loads by more than 3%. In a revolver, when the bullet base jumps the barrel/cylinder gap some gas vents, and the pressure drops a little. This is known to extinguish light loads of that powder and leave a bullet stuck in the barrel waiting for the next round to fire properly and blow the gun up. If you don't use both a magnum primer and a heavy crimp with that powder, you increase the likelihood of that happening. It will be made worse as temperature goes down.
Other powders can also behave that way, according to Hodgdon's tech, but none of the other pistol powders I've run into do it. I've also not heard of it happening with H110/296 in guns other than revolvers, but why take the chance?
Sounds like you got a bad batch or one stored in direct sun or near other heat source. When a round fires the primer cup acts like a little piston, pushing itself out of the primer pocket and the brass forward until the headspace determinant stops it. It is reseated when pressure from the powder pushes the head back against the breech, but that primer piston push back starts even before the firing pin retracts, so it flows the cup over the pin by the added amount of any extra headspace in the gun. That's why the fired ones are always marked a little deeper than a struck primer that didn't ignite.
Since your other brands all work, I doubt you are having the most common problem that causes this, which is the primer not seated all the way in. More likely its the result of bad storage or a defect. I'd call Winchester about it. They might be willing to test and replace. They are not hard primers and my Goldcup ran through a case of 5,000 one year when I couldn't get my usual Federals. It did so with no faults, and that gun's strike is lighter than my Redhawk's. Winchester made some primer changes since then (did for small rifle, anyway), but toward the more sensitive side, not less so.
Zoar,
I would stick with magnum primers for 296/H110 as recommended above. This is for a safety reason. That powder is normally run on the ragged edge of its ability to sustain burning, which is why they warn you not to drop the published loads by more than 3%. In a revolver, when the bullet base jumps the barrel/cylinder gap some gas vents, and the pressure drops a little. This is known to extinguish light loads of that powder and leave a bullet stuck in the barrel waiting for the next round to fire properly and blow the gun up. If you don't use both a magnum primer and a heavy crimp with that powder, you increase the likelihood of that happening. It will be made worse as temperature goes down.
Other powders can also behave that way, according to Hodgdon's tech, but none of the other pistol powders I've run into do it. I've also not heard of it happening with H110/296 in guns other than revolvers, but why take the chance?