Bargain Basement die set
Hasse=91,
It's always the die's which derail these dreams. However, you could try what I did. There are two common oversized 375 bore Die sets. One is for the 375 Rem. Rum. and the other is for the 378 Weatherby. I did this same trick to get my first 10.6 x 375 Ruger wildcat rounds, using an oversized, but cheap, $35 w shppg., set of Lyman dies for the 416 Rigby.
The downside is you have to have the same, or a couple of thousandth's longer necks, than the round that the dies were made for. I kept the same half inch long neck as the parent 416 Rigby. I have to carefully lock the sizing die down for my press, so I don't wipe out my 16 deg. shoulders, and end up with those 45 deg. shoulders of the 416 Rigby, and lose head spacing, in the process.
You do this by matching your wildcat round with the parent cartridge for the F.L. Die set. Then pay a machinist or G.S. to chuck it into a lathe, and cut back the sizer die with C-6 Carbolloy tooling. C-2 won't work. On my example, we trimmed the sizing die back .300 inch. The seater worked fine, right out of the Orange Lyman box.
In your case have your G.S. put on an oversized pilot on a finish reamer for a 338 win Mag. or a 358 Norma. He cuts the case body with this and then he uses one of his own neck throat reamers to adjust for your own necks. As you are hung up on belts, he just cuts one to his head space GO gauge. Buy or make a tapered expander button, and you can neck size, expand, seat and crimp with this, trimmed, oversized die set. You must be careful so you don't push your shoulders back and buckle them. But you will be head spacing off of your beloved belts, anyways. I could have expanded a 338 Win Mag. or a 358 Norma Mag. to .375, and fired a few in my chamber, to get my own 375 Taylors.
Really, I used the 300 H&H F.L. die, and then trimmed my cases back. (SLOW). I had available 375 H&H virgin brass, to use. In my oversized Ruger case based wildcats, these bulge out ahead of their belts, to the same diameters as the belts. It looks like a second extraction groove. If you trim back a 358 Norma case a bit, it should be undersized enough to fit into your Taylor Chamber (375x338Win Mag.). But the belts will head space, and the case heads are both the same. There won't be any bulging by firing, only by putting too much effort into bullet seating, crimping.
Then I would send a handful to my custom die grinder, and he would work off of them. No muss, no fuss, and they will be guaranteed to fit correctly to your chamber. But you could delay for a year or two, using those expanded neck sized cartridge cases. I would do at least fifty of these, because there will be some losses, due to buckling the shoulders as you go along.
Doing it this way, you will lose some neck length, expanding up. You will have to calculate this loss, before you trim back your larger diameter die. So you would keep the neck length of the respective 378 Wea. or the 375 RUM. You can go a little longer, but not shorter, if you want the crimp function in the seating die to still work.
If I get really perverse, I can trim back some real 416 Rigbys, .300's of an inch, and make up some Std. length cases. I could then expand these necks up to .500 caliber, for the next wildcat project I have on my drawing board. For this I would use Cream of Wheat, fire forming loads. These seem to keep the original neck lengths better, than expanding with a button or two.
But it may work better to have that same G.S. put a belt recess into my sizing die. Of course there isn't any Lyman seater for a .500 x 416 Rigby, but I already have the innards to convert any Hornady sleeved seater to .500". What I still need is the correct .500, minus .002 of an inch expander button and something to neck size this beast. Hornady does this trick with an integral expanding column in a solid die body, for their .500 cal. pistol dies.
This has gone off topic, but now you know how I approached the problems which you will have to deal with. Yes, you can get by on the cheap side for a year or so! Then a custom die set from Hornady will run $150 + shipping, and customs in your country. If you could score a Lowthar Walther deep chambered barrel in another 375 std. length cartridge, it might cut your expenses in half, or more. Then you merely file off the barrel stub to get your belt to head space, against your own bolt's face.
Then it comes down to a home made barrel vise, and some flat files. If your rifle is a Mauser clone, you may just use a large crescent wrench or make up a U bolt threaded through a flat piece of steel to grasp the receiver ring. Getting the sights on straight will be the bigger pain. But there are new low temp. solders, which will stand up to some hot bluing tanks. Brownells is a good source for many of these short cuts.
Good luck with your belted 375 standard length magnum. And thanks for the recommendations for the 9.3 x 63 standard rimless cartridge's performance. Just remember, if it packs about the same amount of powder behind the same bullets as the 375 H&H, it will kick just as hard as the 375 H&H, in a rifle somewhat lighter than most ten pound 375 H&H's. I've heard of some distraught customers with these, who thought differently, before reality slapped them up along side their heads.
This is why I sniffed out the Speer bullet, dedicated for Arctic, sub Arctic, and the larger, non DG, African Plain's game. It just happened to be a .416, 350 gr. Mag Tip.