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Discussion Starter #1
Whatever you call it, I just layed away one I could not turn down. I had been looking for a SP101 in 38 Special and had found several that I liked in the 250 dollar range used but here was this little jewel of an H&R in this ,now off the wall, caliber. I have a .22 H&R revolver and this looked like the perfect pergression. The .357 or 38 SP will have to wait.

The shop only wanted $129 for it. I got an ankle holster for it and the order to midway for dies and supplies is in.

Who has this caliber and what about it?
 

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Ok...if that H&R is a break open design, then it's either the 926 (4" barrel ) or the 925 (2 1/2" barrel). If it is a pull-pin, then it's old enough that I don't know the model number 9or if back then they even used numbers).

Actually, the two break-tops are pretty good revolvers. The .38SW is never goting to be a power house, but the revolvers do tend to shoot well (there is an old 925 in the gun locker).

Cases are actaully a bit bigger in diameter than .38specail cases, and a good bit shorter. Bullet/bore diameter is usually between .359" and .361" , with .360" as the standard they aimed for.

No difference between a .38S7W and a .38 CNP other than the style of bullet.

Can reload pretty esily, even if you don't cast the larger sized bullet required....light loads and the 148gr. .358" HBWC will work fine. The hollow base does actually work as intended and fully engraves in the larger barrel. Better to use real .38SW dies as the smaller diameter .38Specail dies will over size the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks ribbonstone.

I had to get this topic back to the top of the list. Doesn't anyone else use this cartridge or am ribbonstone and me the only ones.

I should get my care package by way of the BBT today. I will have to lead a few just to have something to shoot when I get this baby out of layaway. Picture will follow that.
 

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Nawth East Moderatah
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Chief:

PM or email me. I've got ALOT of .38 S&W [not special] and some 38 colt you can have for the cost of the shipping.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
M141a,

I sent an e-mail and a buddy communikay but I don't think they worked. Somehow I do not have your personnal e-mail in my e-mail address book from our previous communications. I will be sure to get it this time.

Thanks for the offer. It sounds great. I will be glad to pay the shipping. E-mail me what you have and I will let you know what I can use.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I picked up the H&R925 today and thanks to M141a I have a lot of rounds to shoot on Sat. I will give a fuul report on how she does. I am going to the club to pull some stands and shoot a squirrel or two and I will fire a few of the 33S&W while I am there. It will be next weekend befor I will be able to get it on the bench and do a accuracy check but if it hits where I point it Sat. it may not be necessary anyway.

The blueing on this gun looks very good and the barrel looks like it will clean up well. The gun only has wear on the handle which leads me to believe it spent a lot of time holstered and was shot very little.

It fits very good in the uncle mikes ankle holster I got for it too.
 

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My father (now 88) likes the top break H&R's and has a 925. His got bead blasted and parked, but it's the same model. Works fine.
While I am not trying to worry you, consider this just fro future notice. Htere are four places the H&r design breaks (but usually it takes a long time and some abuse to get them to break at all).

1. The hand that rotates the cylinder has the spring that powers it attached (its a flat spring). IF the spring breaks, the cylinder won't revolve unless the revolver is pointed down (allowing gravity to do the job of the spring). The fix is a new hand/spring from a used parts dealer...although a good 'smith can replace the flat spring if he's motivated.

2.The main spring stut has a rebound "block" on it. Some were made of plastic, and they break. Either get a new strut assembly, this time one of the ones made of steel. Have filed it out of stock and attached it to the existing strut...and have made a new strut that is longer to fit into a detent...but that's more work than most people will put up with.

3. There is a tiny flat spring that keeps the cylinder locked to the crane...if broken, the cylinder will eject instead of the extractor star being raised. this one has been reproduced, so is an easy find.

4. The rear sight runs on two opposing screws for windage while the front sight proivides a screw for elevation. these are forever backing out...get them wehre you want them and use a sealer (but not a permanent sealer) on them.

that's it...keep it for the distant future in case you ahve a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I shot the H&R925 today and it is a dream to shoot. I even was able to do well doubleaction. I really love the little round. It is a joy after being used to the hammer of the .44. I will be shooting this one a lot I think. Carries great in the ankle holster.
 

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38 S&W cartridge

I used to have a WWII Webley in 38/200 as the Brits called it.
It was a fine gun and was fun to shoot. The bore is .360 so the hbwc is your best bet for accuracy if you cant get the proper diameter bullet.

2.4 gr Unique with a 200 gr bullet will duplicat the factory load.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have been shooting the 148 gr. HBWC bullet from Hornady over 2.2 gr of Green Dot. The thing just shoots great. I love the round and it goes right where you point it even in rapid fire combat mode. The confidence with this light recoil round and the ease of carry make this gun a hard one to leave at home. It definitely fills a hole in my handgun arsinal.

Got my eye on a Model 13 S&W now. I shot a couple cylinders through a friends Model 15 or 19 a few weeks ago and I can still feel that trigger break. Why can't all handguns have a S&W trigger?
 

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? for bulletsbob.

hey Bob, I have a WWII enfield, would like to try the 200 gr bullets in it. What was your overall length on these for a reload? Did you have any problems with seating depth, increase in pressure?
 

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38S&W ?

I have an unmarked arm, as to caliber. There were five .38 Short Colt loads in the cylinder when I received it. I had to dispose of them to fly back with the gun. I followed all the rules but wish I had saved the loaded stuff. I have an old box of fired .38 Short Colt from Remington. Is this the same as .38 S&W and .38 Colt New Police? COTW wasn't clear enough to suit me. I have some live rounds marked .38 S&W that seem to fit. The loaded length was "1.170. The empties seem to be "0.770 long. Will these calibers be the same? I am aware gun manufacturers liked to have their own name on their guns and ammo even when they were interchangeable with their competitors. 1. What cases can be used to load this? 2. Who regularly carries the dies? 3. Can .38 Special be resized in .38 Short Colt dies? This old Owl's Head will talk again. I don't know it's history. The previous owner started as a professional ice hockey player in the late forties. Then in New York City he was a bellhop. Then on to bartender and hotel management in Chicago. Then to Kansas City as manager of various clubs. If this gun only spoke english!
 

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Hi, Bandito:
If I've got this straight, the .38 S&W and .38 Colt New Police are the same cartridge. The .38 Short Colt uses a smaller bullet, same as the .38 Special, .357" instead of .359", and has a slightly shorter case than the .38 S&W, at .762". The .38 Colt case is also smaller in diameter, at .378, while the .38 S&W case is .386". However, I have some .38 S&W factory loads that will chamber, if a bit tight, in my .357 S&W M-28.

Remington still makes .38 Short Colt, so you're in luck. Of course it might be chambered for the .38 S&W.
http://www.remington.com/ammo/pistol_revolver/remp_rammo.htm

RCBS had .38 Short colt dies in the 1997 Special Order catalog at $91.80. Looks like CH-4D has a better price at $69 now. Goto page 9 of the die list.
http://www.ch4d.com/

You could resize a .38 Short Colt case in a .38 Special die, but you couldn't crimp it unless you cut back the bottom of the die a fair bit.

Everybody has .38 S&W dies. One caution. Some .38 Long Colt cylinders are bored straight through and can chamber a .357 Magnum. Pulling the trigger could be hazardous to your health. In case you haven't figured this out yet, you can fire a .38 Short Colt in a .38 Long Colt, .38 Special, .357 Magnum and .357 Maximum.

Bye
Jack
 

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Thanks, J M

I may do a chamber casting. The Short Colt ammo was in the cylinder when I got the piece. The .38 S&W fits in it too. The chamber casting is the only way I know of checking it out. I can make a .358 Hollow base wadcutter in my swage. My hollow base is shallow with a heavy wall. I could send for a deeper, more standard base punch. That is around $20.00 and gives me a wider choice of tools. With the deep hollow base I can have obturation even with the low intensity of the S&W or Colt. I suspect the use of only 3 or 4 grains of Unique in this case. I will go back and check after I know which case to use. The shortened Special case would be nice. I have a .38 Special die set that is never used that can be ground shorter. Thanks again....... 'Dito ;)
 

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It is my understanding that the force on a break top latch is not directly related to pressure, but a function of recoil on the barrel mass and bullet friction.

When downloading for the Iver Johnson break top revolver that my grandfather carried in the Alaskan gold rush, I look for a low recoil and low friction load.

The latch has a tiny eye [with a screw through it that pulls on the eye] that can elongate and make the break action loose.

I have been shooting soft lead balls with one grain of fast powder. I know that won't wreck Grandpa's old 38 S&W.
 
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