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Ok...if that H&R is a break open design, then it's either the 926 (4" barrel ) or the 925 (2 1/2" barrel). If it is a pull-pin, then it's old enough that I don't know the model number 9or if back then they even used numbers).

Actually, the two break-tops are pretty good revolvers. The .38SW is never goting to be a power house, but the revolvers do tend to shoot well (there is an old 925 in the gun locker).

Cases are actaully a bit bigger in diameter than .38specail cases, and a good bit shorter. Bullet/bore diameter is usually between .359" and .361" , with .360" as the standard they aimed for.

No difference between a .38S7W and a .38 CNP other than the style of bullet.

Can reload pretty esily, even if you don't cast the larger sized bullet required....light loads and the 148gr. .358" HBWC will work fine. The hollow base does actually work as intended and fully engraves in the larger barrel. Better to use real .38SW dies as the smaller diameter .38Specail dies will over size the case.
 

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My father (now 88) likes the top break H&R's and has a 925. His got bead blasted and parked, but it's the same model. Works fine.
While I am not trying to worry you, consider this just fro future notice. Htere are four places the H&r design breaks (but usually it takes a long time and some abuse to get them to break at all).

1. The hand that rotates the cylinder has the spring that powers it attached (its a flat spring). IF the spring breaks, the cylinder won't revolve unless the revolver is pointed down (allowing gravity to do the job of the spring). The fix is a new hand/spring from a used parts dealer...although a good 'smith can replace the flat spring if he's motivated.

2.The main spring stut has a rebound "block" on it. Some were made of plastic, and they break. Either get a new strut assembly, this time one of the ones made of steel. Have filed it out of stock and attached it to the existing strut...and have made a new strut that is longer to fit into a detent...but that's more work than most people will put up with.

3. There is a tiny flat spring that keeps the cylinder locked to the crane...if broken, the cylinder will eject instead of the extractor star being raised. this one has been reproduced, so is an easy find.

4. The rear sight runs on two opposing screws for windage while the front sight proivides a screw for elevation. these are forever backing out...get them wehre you want them and use a sealer (but not a permanent sealer) on them.

that's it...keep it for the distant future in case you ahve a problem.
 
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