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.410 semi auto loads

1526 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  JBelk
I have a Remington 100 .410 semi auto which is a great gun. I am also in the UK. The problem I have is that I need to use fibre wad ammo in some of the places I shoot. However ALL the bought fibre wad ammo I use in the .410 semi auto has the same results. Usually the primer comes out on firing and clogs the works up AND the spent cartridge remains in the breach often being ripped by the extractor claw instead of ejecting. The only cartridge I can get here in the UK to work satisfactorily is Fiocchi 19.5gramme plaswads. I have started reloading so that I can use the gun with fibre wads.
I was wondering if anyone in the USA was reloading .410 fibre wads for such a gun and if so what their "recipe" is in terms of shotshell, primer and powder.
I may be confined to using this gun on ranges where plaswads are OK.
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I know Eley produce a 3 inch with fibre, appreciate you have probably tried those. There was one other ..I think Lylevale maybe but I did not get good reports on these. Now I have an 1100 in 16 gauge which used to hang up and I purchased a can of FASTEX auto action lube. I did as the instruction said and the problem disappeared.
I plan on shooting the Eley fibre in my 410 double this coming bird season, so would be interested in how this pans out. I assume you have cleaned and polished the chamber thoroughly, because this all points to something causing the shell to hang up in the chamber. Make of cartridge etc would be interesting.

I also reload and Clay & Game have been very helpful in aiding me with non toxic reloads for my 410, perhaps a call to them would be an idea. Try an e mail to start with as they are not always in the office. They can be slow in answering e mails as well because they are out at Game Fairs a lot.

I'm a Fiocchi 3 inch Mag fan as well. Great cartridge.

A bit of research some years ago proved fibre wads to be more toxic than plastic to cattle and quite a lot of plastic wads now are bio degradeable or should be. BUT, you still have to toe the line with the land owner.

Welcome to THE forum. No doubt someone else will come up with ideas on this.
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.410 cartridges

Many thanks for the info. You are on the right track because I have been experimenting with the charges and shot content of my cartridges.
Bizarley the combination which works best is 10grains of HD110 and 19.5 grammes of lead. I conclude that the inertia of larger loads (21gms) allows the cartridge base to expand and then the extractor cannot do its work so rips the base since that is clearly the weakest point. I did clean the chamber as far as I could and that worked but pretty soon clogged again. Believe it or not the gun cycles fine with just the 10grains something I tried not expecting it to work and was staggered when it did. I need to find a tool that I can use to clean the chamber with after every shoot. Also I have not had the recoil spring out since I bought the gun so that is in for a clean too since it may be delaying the movement of the action to the rear just that split second too long.

Ripping the rim is indication of too much gas, usually caused by reaming of the gas port over-sized. A dirty chamber can make it worse.
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