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Ok loading a S&W 629 I just finished the 38Spl and have a lot W231 left over. These are copper platted Berry’s FP. What data / Manual I have all the newest Lee #2, Hornady X, Lyman 50, 49, Speer 14. OAL 1.600. 5.0gr - 11.0gr. What I’m getting from forum. A little help.
 

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In my notes I have an old load that calls for 6.5 grains of W231 with a LP primer under a 240 grain lead bullet. It is a light load for the Berry's bullet but it should shoot well at about 800fps. Less recoil than my 45 colt shooting a similar bullet (Berry's 250 gr) but with a slower powder. (11.2 gr of HS-6) It leaves the barrel at 950 fps. It is very accurate in my pistol.
 

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. OAL 1.600. 5.0gr - 11.0gr. A little help.
Lots of new to reloading/handloading people out there in the different forums, and 5.0gr to 11.0gr would be pretty confusing.

The Berry's plated bullets are on the soft side as bullets go, and at 11gr, you might actually get unacceptably high pressures relative to the jacketed bullet spec. At 5gr, you'll be at the very low end with maybe a stuck bullet.

Good numbers to use would be the Speer LSWC load data, and maybe a bit more. The Speer data reflects a point where excessive leading will likely occur with their LEAD bullet, the Berry's are a bit harder, and the copper wash is a fairly good alternative to conventional lead bullet lubes. The Speer data is well below the SAAMI numbers for the .44 Magnum.
 

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My understanding on the use of copper plated lead bullets is that they take the same load data as lead bullets of the same weight. Depending on which case you are going to use (.44 Special/.44 magnum) use the corresponding load data that goes with your case.
 

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Retblades4 -


Remember when you start loading Berry's Bullets in.357 Mag and .45 ACP, the same loading rules apply as stated above.
 

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I'm thinking Berry's bullets don't have cannelures for crimping so you will want to avoid the high end loads for a revolver to avoid having the bullets jump in the cases during recoil that could lock up the cylinder, especially in a M29, these have shorter cylinders as I recall than others.
 

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I've been reloading 44 Magnum for a few years (got my first revolver in 44 in '90), and while I did try a few plated bullets it my 629, I quickly went to either cast (90%) or jacketed (10%). All my 44 handloads, Special and Magnum worked much better with a roll crimp, even a light crimp on Specials. Taper crimping a plated bullet was a time waster, bullets walked consistently. If I roll crimped enough to keep bullets in place, even with lighter loads, the plating was often cut and I risked leaving plating in the barrel and the accuracy was poor. After about 200 tries, I melted the rest and went back to my home cast 429421. I tried about 1,000 plated bullets in my various handguns and they worked best in semi-autos, but turned out to be nothing special as my cast bullets rarely gave me a leading problem and if I wanted higher velocity I just went with a jacketed bullet. Many reloaders like the plated bullets but they offer me nothing over cast or jacketed (maybe price, but I don't count pennies for my handloads) and they seem to give newer reloaders problems...

I used a lot of W231 in my magnums, both cast and jacketed. Some powders give higher velocities but there's no arguing with a 240 gr., 44 caliber bullet moving at about 1,000 fps...
 

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If you do this, you should get good results. My M629 likes 8.0gr HP38 over a 240gr PC TCFP just fine.

Thank you guys it helps a lot. So my understanding start 5.0 gr max 11.0gr use lead formulas. The middle would be 8.0gr. I’m using a S&W 629 classic this is my hunting back up.
 

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For plated bullets without a cannelure, I seat them deeper so that the case mouth just rises above the start of the ogive a couple thousandths, then lightly roll crimp. Cut powder charge by about 10% to offset the deeper seating. Not to be used with max or near max loads (which shouldn't be a problem with plated bullets anyway.)
 
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