No direct experience but have been paying attention to similar threads on other forums. The general concensus is the rifling in the barrel has a terribly negative affect on shot spread causing it to make a very wide pattern as it exits the barrel. This severely shortens the effective range of the load. It makes sense to me that this could happen but again, no direct experience.
Had a Springfield Survival firearm at one time - you know, the one with a 22 WMR top barrel and a .44 Mag/.410 bottom barrel. Can vouch that the rifled .44 Mag barrel couldn't hold buckshot or birdshot with any pattern on a paper target at 25 yds.
Some factory, or arsenal, shot loadings, survival loads, have been made. I have one which has a knurled rim. Don't have any idea how effective they might have been. Don't know of anyone making them at present.
I'll have to get the camera out tomorrow or the weekend.
borrowed an even older ida, way back to the 44XL (which predates the .410).
Make a wooden dowel about .449-.450" in diameter, about 4" long to make it easy t work with.
Shape one end of it to a kind of hemispehere.
Cut strips of newspaper into 2 1/4" wide by 4" long.
1 cup of warm water
solution of 1/4 cup of water and 1/2 tea spoon of Elmer's white glue
Dip the paper strip in the warm water for a few seconds.
Wrap it around the dowl...trying to make one end look like a cigar (all closed up).
Paint the ouside lightly (can you a finger) with the glue/water solution
Once it starts to harden, take it off the dowl and set it aside to dry.
Start over on the next strip of news print.
Once you have these tubes made, treat them like shot capsules. Fill them with shot, seat them on top of the powder charge (I tend tend to use a light charge of BP (about 30 grains), a
fiber wad (as sometimes used in BP revolvers), and the filled shot capsule right on top of that. that should leave about a "bullet-length" of paper shot capsule sticking out. Sounds like a light load, but tubes like these will hold about 1 3/8 - 1 1/2oz. of shot.
When a snake comes into my yard, i will tend to kill it. But hunting, we are coming into their yard, and I try to leave them alone (even the "bad" ones). Seems a fair arrangement to me, but once in awhile one wants to slither over my boot or contest the trail's right of way, and that one gets zapped (usually don;t bother to identify it as a "good" or "bad" snake, when it slides over my boot, it's a bad one).
When I had a T/C 14in. 45/70 I would load the cases with Bluedot equal to 44 mag. then put in cardboard wadding I stamped out of corrugated stuff, not the thin shoe box crap. Used a case and hammer for stammping. For shot I used 1/2 to 5/8 oz. of 7 1/2 shot. It was deadly on grouse and red squirrels up to 20 yards. It was not for anything but up close since there was no choke. 2 pieces of cb over powder, shot, 1 piece of cb over shot with wax melted over it.
My ball loads for a 32" barrel are 11.2 gr. Unique with no filler, wad or anything. I use CCI350 large magnum primers and I use my .45-70 expander die backed out further than normal to seat the ball without deformation. I seat it just barely past the center of the ball, then give it a touch with a Lee FCD. If I'm taking them out during season, dip the tip in some Lee Liquid Alox and let it dry. If you have a shorter barrel, you can drop to 8 gr. Unique, but in my long barrel, I laddered from 6 gr. (rolled out the end of the barrel) up to 13 gr. with 10gr. being good out to 25 yards with accuracy, 11gr. good to 50 yards and 13 gr. good to 100 yards. I use the 13 gr. load for woodchuck killin on my grandpa's farm and it shoots slightly high and right about 4"L x 6"down and I kentucky windage. The 25 yard load, which would work for squirrel/grouse at close range is nearly POI at 25. The 50 yard is about 2"L and 2"up at 50, so pretty easy to windage. You will most likely have to play some for your gun and may get better results from different configurations. I tried some multi ball loads, but really wasn't too impressed with the performance past 25 yards, so I just use single balls until I have more time to test. Enjoy.
One other thing, It's best to use once fired brass from the gun you intend to shoot it in. This way, your balls won't get shaved in the seating process. I found this out the hard way on my first set and accuracy was much less acceptable. I do flare the mouth very slightly using my .45 colt flaring tool from my Lee Classic loader, although an expander die would probably work also. I already have the little tool, so it's pretty quick though.
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