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6.5 Creedmoor Build Input

29K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  deadduck357 
#1 ·
I'm looking at my first custom built rifle and have some questions that I thought many here could help with.

Let me start with what I know I want

1) Caliber - 6.5 Creedmoor

2) Barrel Length - Not less than 22" and not greater than 24"

3) Barrel Fluting - 6 groove

4) Rifling - 5R (or 5C)

5) Barrel Material - Stainless Steel

The set-up I'm looking for is a do-it-all rig. For long range hunting, long range target, a 900m rifle.

I haven't decided on which action yet.

What y'all could help me with is:

1) What barrel length would be best with the 6.5cm, 22" or 24" ?

2) What rifling twist rate is ideal for the 6.5cm, 1/8 or 1/8.5 ?

3) What contour is ideal for a fluted 22-24" SS barrel for both field & range ?

4) What finish/process is best for blackening stainless steel ?

I know there will be more questions later, but for now I want to get a barrel on order.

Thanks for any input
 
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#5 ·
The creedmore is a short cartridge and anything more than 22" is a waste. I'd look at getting a Savage Action and sending it and the barrel to ROBAR for their excellent coatings of your choice. I would get nothing faster than a 1-8" twist and would even consider 1-7.5" if you were looking to shoot some very long VLD style bullets.
 
#6 ·
Bandit,

I hate to bust your chops like this, but the Creedmoor has just as much case capacity as a 6.5x55, despite being .200" shorter, and will gain just as much velocity from a 26" barrel as the ol' Swede does. For the long-range shooting the OP specified, a longer barrel is far from being a waste, it would be quite useful.

Also, you state you would get nothing faster than a 1:8" twist...and then immediately suggest getting one that is 1:7.5" (which IS faster) for longer bullets.

In the comparison shown below, of match rifles in 260Rem. 6.5x47 Lapua and 6.5 Creedmoor, the author uses nothing less than a 25" barrel and the Creedmoor was 28" long. On the plus side, he also states the 6.5 Creedmoor does not offer any better performance than the 260Rem. but will probably be more popular on the competition circuit, due to better support from manufacturers than Remington has given its own creation.

http://demigodllc.com/articles/6.5-shootout-260-6.5x47-6.5-creedmoor/?p=4
 
#7 · (Edited)
^^ I would guess that he got 'faster' backwards on accident. My first thoughts were 1:8 or even 1:7.5 and nothing slower (not 1:9 or even 1:8.5, for example) because all the long range bullets (900m shots were mentioned in the OP) will want the ~140gr bullets which mean 1:8 at the slowest twist rate.
 
#9 ·
Easiest thing to rebarrel is a Savage. Don't know about the availability of fluted barrels in that chambering, though.

Good luck and have fun with your project.
 
#12 ·
I'm not rich. So none of the high dollar actions, probably a M700 or M70. Any suggestions ?

Also, I am looking at a Krieger barrel with 5R rifling, I know that Broughton has the 5C rifling. Are there any other barrel manufacturers with 5R (or similar) type rifling ?
 
#17 ·
The A-bolt is awesome. I have a nunber of A bolts and they actually come pillar bedded from the factory. Your probem with using browning, is that if you want to change out the stock, you're rather limited on what you can do, and the same should be said for switching the barrels.
 
#22 ·
Radiused or canted rifling offers the catch phrases, better barrel life. easier cleaning, increased velocity and better accuracy. The odd number of lands means that none of them are directly across form each other which is said to offer less bullet deformation, which equals a better gas seal. Also since there are no 90 degree edges, they pick up less copper. Better still, here's a pic.

 
#24 ·
Kinda makes ya think a 3 groove would be even better doesn't it? A 3R? Guess the military is sold on the idea so I suppose I can see the logic in longer accurate barrel life. If they subject the bullet to less squish, might equate to less friction down the bore. Being a victim of what I read, I'll probably try one...one of these days.
 
#25 ·
I doubt very much that the number of lands/grooves is a factor. Consider that the military used 2-grooved barrels as a manufacturing expedient. Then you have the opposite extreme, Micro-groove rifling with 20+ or so lands/grooves (depending on the exact caliber, etc.).

All can shoot well. The part of it I find interesting is changing the leading edge of the rifling from 90 degrees to the bore, to a different angle. If you consider the polyagonal (?) rifling in Glocks, HKs, etc., it becomes clear that other systems are viable. I believe that rifling geometry has been experimented with for well over a hundred years. Probably a manufacturing expedient, more than anything else, that has kept the leading / trailing edges of most types of rifling at 90 degrees to the bore. Or just stubborn tradition, which shooters are known to embrace :)
 
#29 ·
I buy into the part about less copper and easier to clean. The removal of the 90 degree pocket makes sense to me, not forcing jacket material into such a sharp angle. I have 2 poly barrels that could almost be cleaned with compressed air. As to the number of lands...probably just the usual crap shoot. Catchy name though....5RRRRR....notice how it rolls from the tongue:cool:
 
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