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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’m in need of guidance. H&R ultra varmint 24-inch fluted bull barrel (purchased used), unknown twist rate. Tried Varget for powder in .223. 2 different bullet weights and 5 powder charge weights each. Bench shooting only about 60 yards from bipod and elevation screw on back of stock. For certain charges it will put both bullets in same hole and the third is about an inch out. Did the same with IMR 4064 and Reloader 7 also with two different bullet weights and 5 different powder charges (.5 grains apart). Each had 3 shells loaded with same combo, also used same brand of case for the 3. Cases trimmed / full length resized. I don’t know which one was the ‘flyer” , I think it was the first. Cool down of barrel shouldn’t have been the issue because I had 3 targets up to shoot at without having to walk down and change. Also after changing targets I took a factory federal round and fired downrange so first shot wouldn’t be out of a cooler barrel than next ones.<O:p
<O:p
Factory Federal Ammo shot about 1.5-inch 4 shot group with none touching @ 60 yards.<O:p
<O:p
I’m stumped. Bullets used: Hornady 50gr VMax and Remington 55gr soft point. Maybe gun is just junk? I wouldn’t think if the problem is “repeatable” it wouldn’t be the scope Cheapo 3-9 Tasko I borrowed off my Ruger 10/22<O:p
<O:p> </O:p>
Am I trying to make chicken salad out of chicken ****? (Beating a dead horse?) Trade it back in on a AR-15 or Savage? Open for suggestions

I submitted this for my nephew. I suggested to him that he change scopes and mounts for this rifle.<O:p
 

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horseman suggested i put a place rubber between barrel an stock on my thread about bedding.. sounds like you might could try that. good luck slim
 

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For certain charges it will put both bullets in same hole and the third is about an inch out.
Sounds like it's pretty accurate for a production hunting rifle. This is an inch group, maybe you can tighten up using seating depth adjustments? As long as it will put them in there consistently you can hit pretty small targets at longer ranges.
 

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You need to figure out for sure which of those shots is the flier...my guess is you've got either a bedding problem or a scope problem. Knowing the exact pattern will help you figure out which it is. I've seen scopes do exactly what you're describing, IF it's the first and third shots that are touching. If it's always the first or always the third shot, I would guess it has more to do with the action. Also, before you do a whole lot more, you might see what your results are at a full 100 yards. If it holds that 1" group that far out, I would argue that the gun is certainly not junk. Given that it is 1/2 to 1/5th the price of the replacements you have in mind, it sounds like you're getting a good value.
 

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Sorry but I missed the 60 yard target in my haste. I still think you have a good shooter. Somewhere I read that people get good accuracy from these rifles with the white box (Winchester?) bulk ammo. But I do understand the expectation for accuracy out of the .223.

For what it's worth, I never knew my old .303 British wasn't accurate. I always managed to hit my game where I wanted to when I was younger. Always. It doesn't seem to like paper, only game!
 

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Sounds like you are having fun. Keep plugging and you will find the answer. I would stick with one load and try to isolate the variables a bit. A 14 turn on the forarm screw may be a good thing to try.
 

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Check the twist with a marked cleaning rod and tight bronze brush to see if you're using the right weight range of slugs then work on your seating depth before you give up.
 

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I wondered why my 22-250 wouldn't group as it did. Finally pinned it down to seating depth. had loaned my dies to a buddy and forgot to reset them. The bullets were seated out too far and rammed into the lands. Backed them off a bit and things went back to normal.

Also, it sounds like you're using powders that are considered pretty slow for the .223. Might I suggest Benchmark, BLC-2, or something in that burn rate.
 

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Honestly I would probably consider the trade it in option myself. For Me personally, I just have not had great luck with either of the H&R rifles accuracy wise.

As for AR vs. Savage? Bolt or Auto? Which would suit the purpose of that particular rifle best? The bolt may be a little bit more accurate, but the AR can certainly be made to shoot!

Good Shooting,
Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you all for your responses. There are some that I didn't think about and I do appreciate your promptness. My nephew does have a "shake" problem and I wonder if some of it may be related to his "inaccuracy" of his rifle. Anyway, I suggested to him that he first try replacing the scope and mounts. Thanks all for your help.

Stalker76z
 

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I'm thinking you have a 1/12 twist and bullets over 50 grains won't be a good choice. 40 or 45 would be better. Even better would be a new barrel with a 1/9 twist with 55 gr or heavier bullets.
 

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now wait a min.. a production rifle can be accurate as the accurised
rifles .. but it helps if its got savage written on it somewhere..:)slim
ps.i quit looking for better when i bought the savage 110.. i now know that rifle..its all the centerfire i can imagine needing.. out to 450 yrds..
know you gun ,know you rnd..thats really where its at..jmo .. its the only reason i don t take my marlin 30 30 with leverolution..these all guns i no longer own as i needed the money..but i get to remember the good times withum an they close enough ,,i can use one for a day if i needed it..they in steadier hands now..slim
 
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