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Ammo? Expensive or inexpensive?

3K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  16 Bore 
#1 · (Edited)
I know this is a raging debate to which there is no single answer but I need some help to shut my son and nephew up!

They both shoot 22-250 ammo that costs about $1.50/bullet and I just bought a .223 and am trying to find the right ammo starting with stuff that costs about $.60/bullet. They are forever busting my *** because I don't just go buy the expensive stuff!

My first argument is "what wrong with shooting a few hundred rounds to find the right ammo? It puts a gun in your hands!

My second argument is "with the Prairie dog hunt we have coming up you boys are going to wish you had found the lowest cost ammo your gun will shoot well"

Any words of wisdom I can cram down their throats would be appreciated.........
 
#2 ·
To some folks, spending money is a sport in itself. I too shoot a 223 varmint rifle for the same reason you do, I get a lot of bang for the buck. Used 223 brass is a lot cheaper than 22-250 and uses a lot less powder. Sure you can drive a 22-250 a little faster but I personally don't require that. Just keep shooting and smiling while keeping your extra money in your pocket.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Shot placement counts most. Half price ammo that misses twice as often as the expensive spread is no savings. So, start cheap and work up until you find what shoots most accurately in your gun? There is no guarantee that will be either the cheap or the expensive brand. You just have to try them and see? If I had to pick a brand that was most consistently accurate, it would be Federal Gold Medal, but it is far from cheapest, and, again, that tendency is not guaranteed to hold true for your particular gun.

You will find buying a Lee Anniversary kit and Deluxe die set and loading supplies, then learning to reload, will get you $0.40 rounds with high end bullets that are tailored to your gun and that are more accurate than any you can buy.
 
#5 ·
I don't think there is anything wrong with starting out on the lower end of price. Sure, the more expensive ammo may be more likely the accurate choice. But you may find a lower price alternative that is almost as accurate as the expensive stuff. That could give you almost as much accuracy with a lower cost. And as you said, the shooting you get to do while experimenting is still shooting, so it is still time you are practicing with your rifle.
 
#6 ·
That's one of the reasons I started reloading. I can spend $30 on a box of factory ammo, or I can have the same bullet/round tailored for my rifle for less than $10 a box.

As for bullet choice, just because they are the most expensive does not mean they are going to shoot better in your rifle. Sierra's and Hornady put out a good bullet for the price.

If you guys don't reload.... I would hate to spend $300 on ammo for a day of shooting gophers vs. the $100 it would cost me to reload.

You could always have two sets of ammo, one for closer range with the cheaper less accurate ammo, and one set for longer range with the more expensive ammo. If you can find a bullet that will shoot 1 MOA or better that should be good for out to say 200 yards, which could be quite a few of your shots.

Just tell him after a couple outings shooting prairie dogs that he shot all his money up, and you have enough to go buy a new rifle!

I guess to really prove a point, you need to find a cheaper bullet that shoots better than a more expensive bullet, shoot two sets of targets and show them the physical evidence!
 
#7 · (Edited)
55gr Hornady V-Max, Varget, and Remington brass. Should cover it.

Midway USA

Remington Brass - $24.99 per 100 pieces
55gr V-Max - $16.99 per 100
CCI200's - $5.00 per 100
Varget - $24.99 per lb

Assuming 25gr Max load per charge, you are looking at roughly $0.30 per round, or $6.18 per box of 20.
 
#10 ·
You can shoot poop out of your gun as long as it has some terminal performance and sub moa. Nothing pisses off a reloader more than being out shot with CoreLokts....

But if your piece won't hang, bring some cash for ammo...

Corelokts are a decent, cheap ammo. But I have never, and I mean NEVER seen them shoot sub-moa out of anything. That includes my time working at a gun shop/range. If you can prove otherwise, please come on out. I'll buy you a beer.
 
#13 ·
Best-shooting factory ammo I ever used was Federal Premium, back when they were stuffing Sierra bullets in the end. I got 1.5" groups, on average but even back then, they were running $25-$30/box. When you look at Tang's calculation, and then figure total cost of 5 firings, or 500 rounds, the unit cost drops even more. While finding a cheap factory load that shoots well out of your gun is great, it's nowhere near as cool as finding the components that you can put together, for considerably less, that shoot even better! Plus, you can't always count on finding that factory load, whereas the components for a proven handload are likely to be around for a long time.
 
#14 ·
Getting started reloading for only one caliber, can seem like an expensive venture. But for me, it made a lot of sense. 7mm RM, 300 WM, 300 RUM, and 338 WM. None of which are in any way considered cheap to feed. If you have a variety of calibers, reloading makes a lot more sense.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I guess I need more info on reloading.

Can it be done in mass quantities?

What is the cost to get set up for mass reloading two calibers....22-250 and .223....I simply don't have the time to reload 100's of shells one at a time.
 
#24 ·
Honestly, if you want a progressive, the ONLY game in town is a Dillon. Other brands make progressives, but the Dillon is so much better engineered and refined it blows the others away.

Now, rifle cartridges can be loaded on a progressive, but you have to stop mid way and trim each case, they can't do that. So, you are better off taking your time and learning on a single stage and then upgrading later if you decide you shoot that much.
 
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