Photos are a big help.
An ols S&W
I have a hand me down S&W 38 sp., nickel plated no hammer block or safety devices. I've tried to look it up but haven't found anything. The last patent date is Dec. 20, 1914. S/N is 3332xx. on the butt. Under the crane is a # 427xx. on both the frame and on the crane itself. Rear sight is a groove in the backstrap. The front of the ejector rod detents into a piece of the bbl. (underslung). Bbl. is pinned. Frame has 4 screws on the right side, 2 sizes of screw heads. It seems to have the original wooden stocks. I don't know what frame it is, but it's about the size that you would carry on your hip.
Hope that's everything, Thanks ya'll, Paul
Hope that's everything, Thanks ya'll, Paul
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
There are no S&Ws of 1914 without internal safeties (3). Is must be a solid frame, hand ejector of some kind. Pictures will tell.
When you are looking/asking for help in identifying an unknown object, on a forum, one item that helps immensely and saves everyone a lot of time and guessing is a camera. The old adage regarding 'a thousand words' is at play and worth considering.
It would help on your post on the 270 Remington too.
It would help on your post on the 270 Remington too.
I've never been inside. I was referring to the firing pin block and the key lock on the frame. Working on learning how to post pics. My granddaughter will be by in the next few days.There are no S&Ws of 1914 without internal safeties (3). Is must be a solid frame, hand ejector of some kind. Pictures will tell.
You can always look up the same gun on gunbroker and copy and paste the link from your address bar to a post.
The 'key lock' was added to the S&W revolvers starting in 2001. Since yours does not have one, we can safely say yours was made prior to 2001. Photos will allow us to 'narrow down' the guesses within the prior 100 plus years of S&W.I was referring to the firing pin block and the key lock on the frame.
Follow Darkker's link and you'll find posting photos not much of a mystery or task. When you do post, also click on the 'thumbnail' option, as that allows us to zoom in on the photos to show more detail.
I know that it's at least from the early to mid 60's
I'm trying to learn to post [pics from a phone and you are talking about cut and paste. I was sown how a couple of years back but my memory isn't good enough to remember. Patience, I'll get it, maybe years but I will !!You can always look up the same gun on gunbroker and copy and paste the link from your address bar to a post.
I'm going to predict your gun is an early five screw (front of trigger guard, too) Military and Police that later became the Model 10. The big end on the ejector rod and five screws ,vee notch and blade...like THIS one? Model 1905.
A short tutorial on cut and paste, there's several different ways to do it but here's one I found on youtube. Don't feel bad, I'm still trying to figure out all the maddening idiosyncrasies of android smart phones and I've used computers for work since 94.
How to copy and paste links in the web browser - YouTube
How to copy and paste links in the web browser - YouTube
Thank you very much. That's it exactly including the screw in the front of the trigger guard, except mine is nickel. Is that a good thing or a bad one? Looking at it I'm guessing that it should be with the hammer on a empty cylinder.I'm going to predict your gun is an early five screw (front of trigger guard, too) Military and Police that later became the Model 10. The big end on the ejector rod and five screws ,vee notch and blade...like THIS one? Model 1905.
Thank you sir, I'm a retired office equipment tech with 33 yrs. exp. (copiers, printers, scanners, fax's, etc.) COPD retired me in '08. My company stopped the techs from doing much with the customer's computer system right after a tech screwed up most of the computers on 1 entire floor of a LARGE legal firm. Word was that it was an expensive mistake. Tell the truth I didn't mind a bit. I was one of 3 main troubleshooters in the company. Believe me I had plenty to do without computer connection and setting parameters.A short tutorial on cut and paste, there's several different ways to do it but here's one I found on youtube. Don't feel bad, I'm still trying to figure out all the maddening idiosyncrasies of android smart phones and I've used computers for work since 94.
How to copy and paste links in the web browser - YouTube
They were sold in blue or nickel, 4, 5 and 6 inch barrels. Those are the first models of S&W using the I&J 'Hammer the Hammer' patent that made DA revolvers drop proof, as they remain today. It's safe with all holes loaded. The hammer is blocked internally unless and until the trigger is pulled and held to the rear.
At the time that gun was made ('20s probably) there was only S&W and Colt's competing of the law enforcement business. That was S&W's 'standard' police revolver but some departments issued Colt Police Positives or Official Police or similar. Plainclothes had their choice of Chief's Specials or Colt Detective Specials.
(No record of an 'gun-responsible' AD injuring a cop on duty for about 60 years, too.)
At the time that gun was made ('20s probably) there was only S&W and Colt's competing of the law enforcement business. That was S&W's 'standard' police revolver but some departments issued Colt Police Positives or Official Police or similar. Plainclothes had their choice of Chief's Specials or Colt Detective Specials.
(No record of an 'gun-responsible' AD injuring a cop on duty for about 60 years, too.)
Thanks,PaulThey were sold in blue or nickel, 4, 5 and 6 inch barrels. Those are the first models of S&W using the I&J 'Hammer the Hammer' patent that made DA revolvers drop proof, as they remain today. It's safe with all holes loaded. The hammer is blocked internally unless and until the trigger is pulled and held to the rear.
At the time that gun was made ('20s probably) there was only S&W and Colt's competing of the law enforcement business. That was S&W's 'standard' police revolver but some departments issued Colt Police Positives or Official Police or similar. Plainclothes had their choice of Chief's Specials or Colt Detective Specials.
(No record of an 'gun-responsible' AD injuring a cop on duty for about 60 years, too.)
I'm going to guess that your gun dates from around 1919/1920, which makes it a Model 1905, or the old M&P. The 427xx numbers are parts assembly numbers, to ensure that the correct parts are mated. It has a rebounding hammer, so it is reasonably safe. It has a heat-treated cylinder. It's safe to shoot standard-pressure .38 Specials in it.I have a hand me down S&W 38 sp., nickel plated no hammer block or safety devices. I've tried to look it up but haven't found anything. The last patent date is Dec. 20, 1914. S/N is 3332xx. on the butt. Under the crane is a # 427xx. on both the frame and on the crane itself. Rear sight is a groove in the backstrap. The front of the ejector rod detents into a piece of the bbl. (underslung). Bbl. is pinned. Frame has 4 screws on the right side, 2 sizes of screw heads. It seems to have the original wooden stocks. I don't know what frame it is, but it's about the size that you would carry on your hip.
Hope that's everything, Thanks ya'll, Paul
I did it!!!!! Now if I could only spell. Thank you.
You did just fine. 🙂It's a little late but I think I've learner to post photos, so her goes.
If there is a particular action you are struggling with, This link to the FAQ shows how to navigate and use the forum.
Best advice I have for spelling, "trust, but verify" autocorrect. 😉😉😆
Cheers
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