Not necessarily. You need to decide if you want a crisp trigger or a rollover trigger? Crisp triggers need a condition where the static coefficient of friction exceeds the kinetic coefficient of friction by enough so the engagement slips off once it starts moving and can't be stopped. A frequent technique is a flat hammer hook surface with a slightly radiused sear nose so that the engagement angle diminishes as the sear goes forward. In some instances you can get a good break even if the hammer hook is under 90 degrees off a radial from the sear pivot by this method. If you want a rollover trigger (where you feel the engagement slipping continuously, but the slipping is smooth and not hesitant like creep—kind of like a small ball-bearing was between the hammer and sear), then you usually get best results from the hook and nose sharing a radius (concave on the hook and convex on the sear nose) defined by sear pivot axis. This can be achieved by lapping the hooks and sear in situ.
Don't forget sear pivot pin friction and friction between the sides of the receiver and the sides of the sear, hammer, trigger and anything else sliding in the mix. I think you'll find polishing the sides and surfaces and the pins and keeping them lubed will reduce their contribution enough that your finger doesn't notice them relative to the engagement forces any longer.
Human nerves are logarithmic in sensitivity in order to be able to work over a very wide range without pain. As a result, unless it starts a puncture, a 10% change in pressure is about all you can detect, regardless of the starting pressure. You can test that by pushing down on a scale with 10 units of force. I don't care if it's grains, grams, ounces, pounds or kilograms. Once you have your ten units, push down just enough to make it 11 units and ask yourself if you could really tell the difference? Often the amount of shake you have is that big. So, once you've reduced pivot and side friction below about 10% of the total, it will no longer affect what you feel. Make it 5% if you want to play extra safe, but it isn't that hard to do.
One of the simplest tricks that S&W revolver smiths have is to give a good shake to a bottle of Break Free CLP and mix some into a slurry with JB Bore Compound and to load the action up with that mix like it were a lubricating grease. Then they just keep operating the action over and over. The JB gradually polishes the high spots and works the Teflon from the CLP into the surface. You wind up with that famous "butter smooth" feel the S&W Custom shop likes to boast of. That method can do all the side polishing and the pins. Repeat a couple of times, if the JB breaks down too fast (the particles get smaller and make their own polish as you go along), you can repeat the process. If the pins are too tight for JB, do them separately by using Flitz as a grease. Change it out a couple of times and then work the CLP in.
The above exercise will smooth up hammer and sear engagement some and is great as the final finish for a rollover trigger. For a crisp trigger, though, you will want to flatten the hammer hook. Do that after messing with the slurry because you actually want to remove any Teflon that got in for a crisp trigger, as you don't want to reduce the static coefficient of friction. It isn't uncommon to need to take your final stoning steps with something like a #2 India stone rather than giving it a high polish because a slightly matte surface will better wear in to a final fit on its own. Petroleum oils won't bother crisp triggers because they squeeze the film out of the way, but Teflon can make them mushy.
Slick things up before messing with the springs. Get yourself a starting point. Smoothing will also reduce the work the trigger return spring needs to do. You don't want to stop that trigger spring from doing its job in cold weather or in dusty or dirty conditions. You don't want to get a situation where you find you have to push the trigger forward manually. That plays havoc with follow-up shots. Reducing a spring’s weight in 20% steps is safer. I also recommend you buy a spare before you start and keep it with the gun until you know the other never fails.
When I learned 1911 building, I went through two hammers and three sears before I got it right; and I had supervision part of the time from an experienced retired military match team armorer. It's rewarding to learn, but be prepared that it can turn into an investment in time and parts if you go seeking perfection.
