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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks here is another one I hope you all can help with.

I've measured both the original plastic stock and the Richards Microfit every which way I can and each time I am coming up with a different measurement. No two alike. Does anyone know the length the pillars should be for a Savage stock? In this case a model 11. Trying to determine the correct spacing as this Richards stock is really going to need both front and rear pillars.

The original plastic stock does show pillars in both but they are not even close to where it looks like they should be. Then the Richards rear stock support is seriously cut back with just a narrow spot.

I did a web search and could find no reference to pillar length and the aftermarket ones are all grind to fit.

Anyhow here are a few pictures of what I am dealing with...

Bicycle part Engineering Gas Rim Auto part

Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Rim Gas


Wood Automotive exterior Tints and shades Bumper Composite material
 

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Put the metal parts of the gun together without the stock and measure between the receiver and bottom metal.
 
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The Shadow (Moderator)
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Are you looking for action screw spacing, or length of spacers?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes trying to determine the spacing between the receiver bottom and the bottom metal that will support the magazine. So I suppose for practical purpose the length of the spacers. Don't want to end up with too much or too little spacing for the magazine to feed correctly.

I did try to place everything together but got stumped when I could not determine how far the action screws would screw in before reaching the desired torque.

Am I over thinking this?
 

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The Shadow (Moderator)
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Yes, you are. 🙂

The reason I asked you to clarify spacing or length, since you used both. Is because the action screw spacing changed across generations.

If you are curious, This old thread has the differences.

Cheers
 
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Put the gun together without the stock. Run the screws in to where they should be when the gun is together. Make spacers so it goes together as it should (Magazine box should have rattle room between top and bottom) Measure that space, cut the spacers and be sure they fit. Then simply put the stock and epoxy in the middle. Done.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, you are. 🙂

The reason I asked you to clarify spacing or length, since you used both. Is because the action screw spacing changed across generations.

Cheers
Went back and looked at original post and the way I framed the question may have been unclear. The spacing I was trying to refer to was the spacing between the bottom of the receiver and the inside to the bottom of the bottom metal.

The measurement I get on the old polymer stock at the front is.455" and the rear at the trigger is .950",,, which is the most consistent measurements I can get. Is this what I should go by for a pillar length? Then should I set the pillar to flush from the bottom metal side or the Receiver side?

Sorry for what might be stupid questions but this will be my first pillar attempt and really want to get it right.
 

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I'm puzzled why my instructions aren't clear.
Assemble the gun without the stock (tang screws should be half turn from flush). Simply measure the distance between top and bottom. The pillar is exactly that distance. It is a spacer so it touches both ends to metal.
You can make a dummy from a McD's drinking straw and measure it, too. Assemble and fit without the stock. Then, the epoxy makes it exactly that size.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm puzzled why my instructions aren't clear.
They are not, just trying to explain the question darkker had.
I fully understand that the pillar creates a mechanical spacing between the parts but the space can be varied by the amount the screws are turned in..

I will be doing as you instructed but probably not until Saturday.
 

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Ok. You'll need a straight edge to lay on the bottom metal to be sure its straight, but the MOST important thing is to not 'pinch' the mag box top to bottom. Leave 1/16 space. Screw the tang screws in until they're flush with the inside and back off half a turn. If the mag box is too big to allow that, cut it off. (common with Remingtons).
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So here is the first one! I think I got it right. Have checked and the sear functions perfectly as does the safety.

Automotive tire Bicycle part Bumper Gas Automotive wheel system


Now this pillar post will not make contact with the stock above the drilled hole as it is too relieved as can be seen in the above picture of the stock. Question then is how do I best build that area up? Epoxy in a small piece of wood or just build it up with epoxy and fiberglass strands?
 

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I'd say you're about 3/16" too long, judging by the trigger spacing to the trigger guard.
The bedded surface is the bottom of the receiver. The bottom of the receiver should be bedded in wood first, half depth.
The 'drawing' is just eye-ball geometry to show that any square contacts a half circle at the edges and the bottom. Your action is cylindrical. Bed the top first so you have good contact on all three bedding surfaces. Then put in the magazine box, then the trigger guard and floor plate.
The goal is to make the stock fit the metal, don't try to duplicate a stock that's not right.
Make sure the top inletting is half depth and the metal fits it, the rest is assembled to that foundation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you again. When the whole assembly is in the stock the trigger guard it is raised at the rear and not sitting flush in the stock. When pushed into place the spacing looks correct. If that makes sense? With the receiver in the stock it also looks correct. Not high or low at any spot.

Also was able to take the magazine from my Axis and place it into the bottom metal with everything else also in place and the spacing with that mag in place looks correct. I can snap another picture if you'd like!

Also going to drop you a PM.
 
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