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I'm planning a camping trip where there is a near by lake we will be fishing canoing and boating and probably scuba diving. So I'm getting wet. I use to live in Florida I lived near a beach so we where always fishing and boating. I have a Glock 30 that usually goes with me on these outings. It has several times been submerged in salt watter, never intentionally but its happened. I usually just shook the watter out of it and soon as I could i submerged it in fresh watter for a few minuits to get all the salt out of it. I would field strip it and dry it best I could with what I had and wipe a light cote of gun oil sometimes motor oil (but that was temp). When I got home or if I went straight home I would disassemble the gun completely I wont do this with my other handguns I just know how Glocks work I'm too chicken to take apart a 1911. Clean and oil it up and go on with life. Now I will be carrying my Glock with me. I have a holster I picked up back in Florida at a dive shop that was made by a local toon. The holster is made of kydex and nylon and some other materials. He markets them to scuba divers and boaters. If you knew you where bringing your gun into the watter would you do any kind of pre care for the gun? Are their any special lubricants or stuff to use on it. I'm not planning on discharging it under water! The reason its going with me in the watter is so I know where it is. I don't want it out of my sight. Ive got a big knife if the poopie hits the fan under water?
 

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Just get something that coats the metal and sticks well, like RemOil. I wouldn't worry too much about the Glock or even a 1911, they are pretty easy to take apart.

My go-anywhere gun is a S&W Sigma, what isn't plastic is stainless steel or nickel plated steel. There's no salt water up here, but that would be the primary thing to get out of the gun, make sure you don't have that magwell plug they sell for Glocks as it will hold vast amounts of sea water.
 

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Test Case....ME

I have both a Glock 19 and a Glock 20. They are both used for woods "work" down here in the river swamps of NW Florida.

I have been partially submerged in both fresh and brackish water,and in the black slimy mud that is partially biomassed wood and brush,during my hunting and scouting adventures in my area.

When either of these weapons are subjected to the water they are doused in known fresh water ASAP.NOTE: I have shot both these weapons after shaking the access water off/out of them. They are taken care of as soon as I get done for the day. They are never allowed to sit and dry.

I completely disassemble them down to the smallest part. All the parts are blown off using a compressor that feeds a light mist of WD-40 at 30psi. Then,dry air at 60psi is applied to completely dry all the parts. I apply a very light coating of grease to the parts that you buff during a $.25 trigger job,and the slide rails. Reassemble, and done.

Reminder ---> the Tenefer process that is used in the production of Glocks is super rust resistant....however....all the parts are not subjected to this process.

"Colts and Kimbers are the type of weapons you show your friends. Glocks are the type of weapons you show your enemies." ----pruhdlr
 

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I use an H&K USP .40 for salt water, and hate it. We have had so many issues with rusting and such, that we've been ordered to use ONLY "EEZ-OX" to clean and lubricate them. It seems to help out ALOT. We've tried several alternatives, but for me, when my weapon gets submerged in salt water, I fresh water rinse and then coat with EEZ-OX. Haven't had any misfires yet. I work on the ocean in South Florida, so we get alot of humidity, rain, and the occasional salt water drenching.
 

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The bullet and primer are a tight fit to the case.I've hunted a week straight in pouring rain and never had a problem with the cartridge goin bang.I know several people who dropped there revolvers in the drink one took several minutes to recover.They all went off with out a hitch.A interesting experiment would be drop a several cartridges in a bucket of water and time each one minutes,hrs ect.. and see how long a cartrige can be submerged before it fails
 

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This was not a pistol cartridge but I can't resist to tell this story in regard to this conversation. This last winter I was duck hunting on lake close to my house. The water had come up some and I was standing in about thigh deep water behind a makeshift blind when I dropped two shells in the water. I didn't feel like reaching in the water and getting a wet arm so I left them there. A week later me and a buddy were hunting at the same spot but the water had dropped quite a bit. I looked down and saw the shells sitting on the bottom in about 6" of water. Long story short I picked one of them up, wiped off the excess water, and dropped it in the chamber of my shotgun. To mine and my buddy's amazement it went bang. It wouldn't have surprised me if it had been in the water for a few minutes but a week under water is a different story.
 

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While I am almost sure that the G30 will continue to function & fire wet, I'd be more concerned about the damage that could be potentially caused from sitting in a wet holster. I might consider Kydex, unlined, like a Fobus or Blade tec. Safariland makes a really nice Kydex with the ALS lock, but the holster is lined, and my hold more un-necessary moisture against the firearm.

In regard to your ammo, I recall a primer/bullet sealer offered for sale at Cabelas;

primer sealer

Here is a thread from another forum that discusses primer sealant
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/39438-Does-Bullet-Sealer-Work-(Range-Results)
 

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I spent 15 years diving in salt water with guns/ammo at work (see loggin name). Generally M1911A1s and M9s for pistols, long guns were M16/M4s, AKs and a Uzi. Post dive was coating down in CLP, post dive was rinsing in fresh water and after drying CLP again. Ammo was just rinsed with fresh water and dried. Don't forget to disassemble and clean your mags. Military ammo is sealed to 3 atmospheres (99ft). Guns and ammo always went bang. Salt water and leather don't mix well, use nylon or plastic gear.
 
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