I had a shop that sold once fired by the spackle bucket, unsorted, for $10 a bucket. I must have bought about $100 worth, and sorted K's by headstamp and caliber. In moments of boredom, I weighed various brands and calibers, and found them all to be quite consistant. Most are not the same. In .357, most will go 10-20 cycles before splits and loose pockets are a problem. I have a couple sets of sorted brass that have lasted more than that with midrange loads, and they are still hanging in there.What's the best brass for reloading the 357 Mag.??? I normally use Win. brass for my reloads, but am curious about others.
Any good loads for 180gr. bullets from 6" Ruger ???
I think Rocky's got some pretty good advice here. I use mostly Starline anymore but would not turn my nose up at other brands of brass. Some might stretch less but be more brittle or visa versa. Just get to know each brand of brass for it's unique qualities and you'll be in good shape.All the major brands are very good. I have no idea how to rank one "best."
Use any you choose, but do keep brass separated by brand as internal capacity does vary a bit. That affects maximum load levels.
I don't like nickel-plated cases at all. Repeated flare/crimp cycles causes the plating to flake off, and a flake of that super-hard nickel in your size die can ruin the die and gouge every case sized in it forever after. I know that from direct experience.
I stick to 158-gr bullets but my favorite powder for top-end loads with that weight is Acc#9.
Now THAT'S funny!. . . Ahhhh,,no, no! Leave that "range" brass alone! It will make your front sight rust and the finish on your grips will get soft and sticky! I'll keep quietly taking that bad stuff away so others won't get hurt using it, it's a burden but someone has to do it and I'm tuff.