I use different brands of dies for different purposes, even on the same cartridge.
Anybody's carbide or Titanium Nitride pistol sizing die will work great.
Lyman and Redding have great M-type expander dies are best, especially if you use lead bullets. They have a stepped expander profile that gives you a small area that is expanded enough to start the bullet by hand, then a smaller section that is sized for proper neck tension.
Hornady has a great seating die, especially for handguns shooting lead (non-jacketed) bullets. They pull apart for cleaning while still on the press, and go back together with the previous settings for seat and/or crimp still intact. They have a sliding sleeve that helps straighten up a tilted bullet before it gets pressed into the case neck, and an optional micrometer adjustment screw. They come with two seating stems for different bullet nose profiles. And they do a great job of roll-crimping while seating the bullet.
If you want a separate roll-crimp die, the Redding Profile crimp die starts with a gentle taper, then finishes with a roll, for a nice smooth trouble-free crimp. I have a Lee carbide FCD for my 45 colt, and it is awful. The crimp ring is oversized, letting the case mouth slip by without finishing the roll crimp. To make matters worse, the inside is very rough, which puts deep scratches in the outside of the case mouth. The collet-type Lee FCDs for rifle and bottleneck pistol cartridges are a whole different design, and work great. Anybody's conventional taper crimp die works great.
Lock rings on die brands vary a lot. There are three basic types. The most common is a simple knurled or hex nut with a set screw. Lee uses an o-ring that, when under pressure, clamps down on the die threads. I like cross-bolt lock rings from Hornady or Forster, they lock securely and squarely to the die body without marring the threads. Set-screw hex rings are next best. I find Lee lock rings particularly worthless. They only keep the setting on the die if you remember EVERY TIME to remove the die from the press by the lock ring, not the die body. And once the die is out of the press, the Lee o-ring is no longer compressed and does not hold the lock ring firmly in place anyway. Give me a firmly locked ring that will not move unless I loosen the set screw or cross-bolt, in or out of the press.
Don't overlook the other details on the dies. Good fit and finish, at least in the right places, gives you more consistent results, and allows smoother operation which lets you know if something is wrong as you are doing it (something doesn't "feel" right). In my experience, Lee dies have consistently poorer fit and finish, especially on the inside where it counts, than other brands of dies. That said, occasionally all brands will let a stinker out the door.
If I had to choose one brand for the entire pistol die set, it would be Hornady for the great seater die and lock rings, and reasonable price.