Successfull cleaning and shooting of any blackpowder firearm is a combination of using a good lube to coat the bore after each shot and knowing when to clean before a buildup of crud.
Whether a handgun or BPCR, I swab the bore with a moist towlette (baby wipes) followed by a dry patch. For pistols, after each 5 shots and in the big Sharps about every 30 shots. The rifle has the advantage of having a soft grease cookie placed under the projectile which coats the bore after each shot.
While the commercial lubes such as SPG are very good, I use my own 4:3:1 mix of beeswax, copha and olive oil.
The smallest group shot to date with this combo in my 40/65 is a 100yd 10 shot of just 32mm with 8 clustered into 22mm.
"Copha" isn't in any of my 4 dictionaries. A Google search indicates that it's only available in the southern half of the planet and Aussies suffer severe withdrawal symptoms when they move to the northern half and can't get Chocolate Crackles
Aussies only suffer withdrawalls from a separation from beer or black powder smoke.
Copha is an extract of coconut oil. I got the formula off another forum. That post stated that for some time he was concerned that all lubes were based on animal fats which contain salts. With long term storage of BP cartridges the salt tends to react with the brass case about a ring under projectile. A similar reaction to leaving cartridges in a leather belt.
The perfect solution of course is to shoot more and don't store loaded ammo for long.
The copha, beeswax & olive oil is all vegetable and has no salt. I guess I was swayed by the fact that this veggie lube works and that SPG costs $14.00 per stick here.
Ouch! That's double what SPG costs in Canada. The Aussie dollar isn't that much weaker than the Northern Peso. Shipping costs must be a killer. Marshall said "Ouch!" when I told what my last order of bullets cost by the time they got here.
It's only 3 miles to the pub, and they might have Foster's, but it's likely relabeled Labatt's and not the real thing.
I tried the Murphy's Oil Soap and alcohol in the flinter. It worked but I think there's another reason it's so popular, by the smell of it. Any other smokepolers want to `fess up?
I've got an old .45-70, loaded with a lead bullet, WRA headstamp, in my cartridge collection. The brass is green for an 1/8" around the case mouth. It probably doesn't look too good on the inside.
You know, I've ruined my muzzleloader because of these "newfangled" ideas! Let me explain...
My dad got my muzzleloader for me in 1976 for Christmas. I have shot it frequently through the years and have taken four deer with it. I always cleaned it up with dish soap and hot water, oiled it with regular gun oil. Worked fine for over twenty years. Then I started reading about how you shouldn't use petroleum based oils, how you shouldn't use harsh soaps etc. So I switched to bore butter and some of the solvents made especially for black powder.
A couple of seasons ago, I took my muzzleloader to the range for sighting-in and I couldn't get a ball down the bore! Inspection with a bore light showed horrible pitting. I've used 600 grit polish on the bore so you can get a patched ball down it again, but it no longer shoots well. It used to hold about a 3 inch group at 100 yds, now 6 inches at 50yds is the norm. I am totally disgusted. Plus, my rifle is a 1976 Commemorative with matching stampings on barrel and patchbox so I don't want to replace the barrel.
Needless to say, I am terribly leary of trying "new" cleaning methods now. If I ever get around to replacing the barrel or whole gun I will likely use the hot water/soap method again. Sorry to be a nay-sayer! ID
BTW- I've not smelled Murphy's oil soap, what are talking about Jack?
Vegemite tends to migrate into the powder making it soggy and hard to ignite. Shot a pistol match once with vicks vapour rub as the lube. Works just fine; the whole shootin club had clear noses that day!!
Murphy's Oil Soap has a healthy dose of Citronella in it. Keeps the skeeters and black flies away.
I haven't had a rust problem by finishing up with hot water and the no longer available Young Country 103 lube, but I live in a dry climate. Using soap or detergent is one I hadn't heard about until recently. It seems reasonable that they would remove oil from the barrel metal pores that plain water wouldn't. An oil with good penetrating qualities would refill the pores, but the almost solid bore butter might not.
I used FP-10 the last 2 times with no problems. It seems that some petroleum lubes tar and some don't. Alox lubes are bad by all accounts. A neighbour grabbed the grease gun off the tractor when he got his new smokepole home and tarred it up real good.
Cruise the black powder forums and you'll find a number of reports of rusting with Bore Butter - Wonder Lube. There's also a consensus that the perchlorates in Pyrodex are more corrosive than the sulphur in real black powder.
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