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So I broke out the Omega from a about 5 months of hibernation and looked at my pre-saturated bore butter patches. They are no longer that nice yellow color and the nice wintergreen smell is no longer there. I was just wondering if these are still good? I'm thinking that they should be and just the smell and color has faded away.

I just started reading back on some posts here about home made lubricant mixes which I may need to use in the future.
 

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most likely dried out. Dont bother with those bore butter patches, they arent worth a crap. In fact, get some good hot water, a bore brush and spend some time getting that crap out of the bore! Dry it, then use a good quality gun oil.

i like rem oil with teflon, Lightly dampen a patch, run it down the bore using both sides of the patch. Give the oil a few minutes to dry and t hen follow up with 1 dry patch to mop up excess oil.
 

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pre lubed patches have a tendency to go bad. Any kind of cloth left in a solution of something will start to rot and stink. I would throw them away.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
most likely dried out. Dont bother with those bore butter patches, they arent worth a crap. In fact, get some good hot water, a bore brush and spend some time getting that crap out of the bore! Dry it, then use a good quality gun oil.

i like rem oil with teflon, Lightly dampen a patch, run it down the bore using both sides of the patch. Give the oil a few minutes to dry and t hen follow up with 1 dry patch to mop up excess oil.
I might have to try the rem oil, I use it on the outside of my rifles. The patches have always worked very well for me and have always had the gun shoot about 1" groups @ 100 yards. I see no reason to change right now.
 

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If your shooting one inch groups at 100 yards with bore butter patches, then I would keep using them. I just never had that much luck with the stuff.
 

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You may consider NOT using any petrolium based oil in your smoke pole barrel. Water-based cleaning is always suggested, I do not care what anyone says. If you do insist, the Rem 40-X Bore Cleaner would be the best choice. For the lock and trigger mechanisms, I do prefer the REM Oil.

For patching material, you may go to the NMLRA where you will find teflon impragnated pillow ticking for sale. It works great and can be shot in any weather conditions better than anything else I have tried, and I have tried them all from spit to real bear grease.

Bore Butter, NOT a good choice at all! Pure mink oil, YES! Teflon patches, YES!

As far as the NMLRA goes, you may consider joining if you are not a member already. New members can join for $20. Help preserve our rights to "keep and bear arms"!
 

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YMMV.

Old Bore Butter seems to "break down" in two ways, depending upon how it was stored.

I bought some very old, but hermetically sealed packages of pre-lubed Maxi-Hunter's, in/on which the Bore Butter lube had turned brown and a little "runny" - but loaded/shot perfectly.

OTOH, I also bought another very old unsealed T/C yellow BOX of prelubed Maxi-Hunters, that the Bore Butter had dried up and mostly flaked off - which I had to finish removing the dried BB with a toothbrush and re-lubing with fresh BB.

.
 

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My question is -- does Bore Botter ever "go good"? I cannot stand the stuff, and gave up on it years ago. I got much better performance out of plain old automotive grease (this being in the day before everyone "knew" that petroleum-based lubes were bad) than I ever did with BB. A poor lube, and an even worse preservative.
 

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I changed over to moosemilk and will never go back to anything else. Moosemilk is easy to make and easy to use.
 

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I changed over to moosemilk and will never go back to anything else. Moosemilk is easy to make and easy to use.
What's the recipe Cayugad?
 

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Moose Milk

A general purpose black powder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 4 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between on an old window screen. This makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is. Just spritz the dry patch and use a damp patch on the range. Works perfect.

Be sure when making the Moose milk to mix the alcohol and castor oil together first. Then add the witch hazel. Add all of this to the water and shake. Finally after that mixture is all together add the Murphy’s oil soap.
 

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There are about as many "Moose Milk" recipes as there are BP shooters who use it. Perssonally, I have had excellent results with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and Murphy Oil Soap -- minimal fouling shot-to-shot, much longer strings of fire between cleanings, great accuracy, easy clean-up; plus, it is pleasant and non-messy to use. The ideal proportion of one to the other really needs to be arrived at thru experimentation -- sometimes, you will see radical changes in accuracy by varying the amounts, 50:50, 70:30, etc. Generally, the less alcohol you use the "slicker" the resulting lube will be, and vice-versa. You can endlessly vary patch thickness and lube slickness and get some real surpises in accuracy. Believe me, it pays to experiment with such minutiae if you are after absolute top accuracy.

Another lube/cleaner to keep in mind -- plain ol' spit. You can keep patches in your mouth, take one out, squeeze it out good, load fast, and sometimes get great results. I use it a lot for target shooting, not so much for hunting. Inevitably, the patches will dry out over time, even though it may take a long time. In the case of the "Moose Milk" patches, they work well when damp and still retain a lubricant residue when dry.
 

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There are about as many "Moose Milk" recipes as there are BP shooters who use it. Perssonally, I have had excellent results with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and Murphy Oil Soap -- minimal fouling shot-to-shot, much longer strings of fire between cleanings, great accuracy, easy clean-up; plus, it is pleasant and non-messy to use. The ideal proportion of one to the other really needs to be arrived at thru experimentation -- sometimes, you will see radical changes in accuracy by varying the amounts, 50:50, 70:30, etc. Generally, the less alcohol you use the "slicker" the resulting lube will be, and vice-versa. You can endlessly vary patch thickness and lube slickness and get some real surpises in accuracy. Believe me, it pays to experiment with such minutiae if you are after absolute top accuracy.

Another lube/cleaner to keep in mind -- plain ol' spit. You can keep patches in your mouth, take one out, squeeze it out good, load fast, and sometimes get great results. I use it a lot for target shooting, not so much for hunting. Inevitably, the patches will dry out over time, even though it may take a long time. In the case of the "Moose Milk" patches, they work well when damp and still retain a lubricant residue when dry.
Actually, the way I understand it is the "original"moose milk is simply cutting oil diluted with water, nothing else. All the extra ingredients came later, especially the Murphy's oil Soap. Not to say that is isn't OK, just not original. Some people state Ballistrol mixed with water is moose milk. A good lube, yes, but not moose milk.
 

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The recipe I gave above was given in a forum by a person named Stumpkiller. He used the Castor oil because it was a natural oil. Before I saw their formula I used to make my moosemilk out of NAPA water soluble cutting and grinding oil #765-1526. I would mix that with water and alcohol

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4 ounces NAPA Auto Parts #765-1526 Soluble Cutting & Grinding Oil
1 ounce Murphy's Oil Soap
7 ounces 91% Isopropyl alcohol
16 ounces tap water

It was a very good moosemilk. The reason I went to the Castor oil was I ran out of the other and just picked the stuff up at a Wal Mart to make and try. I liked it and stuck with it. The other worked just fine too.
 
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