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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So you wouldn't bed pillars? Also can you try to explain again reply #13? I understand the too deep part.
 

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'Pillars' do nothing at all but SPACE between the action and the bottom metal. There's nothing at all magical about them, just a way to keep Bubba from splitting Remington stocks. It was a problem in the '70s. With a spacer, the tang screws can not be overtightened, that's all. You have a 'spacer' in the stock itself. If thats wrong, you might need another spacer.
#13 is just a geometric fact. Right angles (90deg.) touches both sides and the bottom of a true semi-circle. If you hang a small square in the inletting at the front tang screw and all the way down the barrel, IF both sides touch the square but the point of the square has space under it, its more than a semi-circle. It's too deep. If the point of the square hits before the sides, it's too shallow.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thank you again for the direction! You responded the same back here; Action bedding or pillar bedding? and now it is making even more sense.

As you suggest I believe I will forego the pillars.
Thoughts on Marine Tex epoxy? I can pick that up locally at the marina.
 

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marine Tex is great stuff. Release agent is more important. I coat of unbuffed paste wax (NOT goobered on) with all the corners, nooks and crannies covered by wax brushed in and holes, ledges and undercuts filled with modeling clay.
To break the action out, hold the stock with both hands and bang the underside of the barrel on a padded countertop. Hit it so the barrel hits flat and the action will pop right out. Put epoxy in the back of the recoil lug recess so the recoil lug is fully supported to the rear. I cover the bottom of the recoil lug with tape so it makes a space below.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
As for release agent, I have seem many mentioned and have wondered about using my Hornady Unique Sizing wax lube. Thoughts?
 

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I would NEVER EVER uses something you don't KNOW works for this job. Paste wax with Brazilian Carnuba works extremely well.
I've had guns in the shop with vaseline, Pam, cling film, candle wax and even WD-40 used as release agents. Some eventually came out, but some would not. Use paste wax with Carnuba (I saw some in the hardware store Friday) and know it'll be successful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I have a can of Johnson's Paste wax that I use to mix my bullet lube. I'll read the label.
 

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Johnson's has been used by many for a long time. It must work some!

A good project for somebody with a stress tester would be to run a meaningful test on release agents. I've seen enough boat hulls come out of BIG molds to know there are differences. I've used dang near a whole can of TreWax bought in November of 1967 on literally hundreds of epoxy jobs. It's never let me down.

BTW-- Cling film is the preferred method of releasing glass bedding on octagon barrels. You need a bit of space on parallels flats to have them come out.
 
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