[Trapper1]

On my new, old 94, the crown is great and I want to keep it that way. I clean my Marlins from the breech after disassemble but can't seem to find online, really clear instructions regarding tear-down for the Win.
I'm very capable and can strip and reassemble my Ruger Mark 2 pistol for example but am unsure with this gun and don't want to screw up.
I guess my question is how hard is it to get the bolt out and...how are most of you-all getting the job done?
When cleaning from the muzzle, is there a preferred bore guide that is popular?
Thanks!

 

[Rangr44]

If you examine the RH receiver wall of your Model 94, you will find a small hole, just below the upper edge about 2" in back of the front receiver ring.

It is an access hole, to drift out the lever pin (similar to the lever screw in your Marlins).

Before the pin can be drifted out, however, a few other things need to happen:

The large-head plug screw, on the LH receiver wall, directly opposite the little drift hole, must be removed.

The lever/bolt must be partially opened - enough to align the lever pin with the hole (look through the left side hole).

After the pin's out, the lever & lower link will drop enough to manually withdraw the bolt out of the rifle towards the rear (you may have to depress the hammer) - and clean away to your heart's content.

Assemble in reverse order.

.

 

[Trapper1]

I'll need pictures, lol! thanks for the info. I assume once you've done it a few times it's as easy as a Marlin?

 

[Rangr44]

No harder than re-installing the Marlin ejector (not hard at all).

.

 

[Cheezywan]

I've been cleaning mine that way for some time now. Use good screwdrivers to do it.

Ive been re-thinking some since the invention of boresnake? Low presure loads like 30-30 Winchester just don't foul a bore all that much.

"Hardware store screwdrivers" cause more damage than anything else that I have seen!

Another method is to "flood the bore" with solvent. I'm a "fan" of that method. Takes time, but works well in my experience. Let the chemicals do the work!

I "VOTE" boresnake or similar for most!

Cheesywan

 

[30-30remchester]

I would avoid disasembly of the 94. It can be done but is unnessasary. Many guns can only be cleaned from the muzzle and they still shot good. These were never meant to be taken down to clean. After 45 years of working on old guns I have seen many that were severly damaged by improper cleaning or improper disassembly.

 

[Trapper1]

I appreciate all the reply's. All good stuff. Don't worry about the screwdrivers, Im new to 94s but not cleaning guns. I have two gunsmith sets of screwdrivers. Thanks though,it can never be said enough.

 

[COSteve]

I'll second the thought on the boresnake. I've found them pretty good at cleaning the barrel on my 357mag leverguns, 22lr levergun, and even on my 2 ARs. I wish they'd make a ratcheting chamber brush (like the one I used on my M14 in the Army) in 357mag, 22lr, etc, as they would work slick on a levergun too.

 

[38anup]

I clean mine from the muzzle, but I use a wooden cleaning rod my grandfather made.

 

[Trapper1]

thanks guys. That's pretty interesting about the wooden rod. I want/have to take it apart at some point so I know how to do it. But I think it is true that it may not be the best thing to do every time you just clean the barrel..I'm still looking for a good bore guide. I don't like the little brass ones I have.
Maybe I'll pick up some bore snakes.

 

[Tnhunter]

I agree with the previous Bore-Snake mentions. I use them on most all my guns, even the bolts and like the idea that gunk/powder residue and whatever are always cleaned away from the receiver or action. Even with a bore guide you are pushing "stuff" down the barrel into the chamber and action areas. The bore snake does exactly the opposite.

 

[au2183]

I am a huge fan of boresnakes, and now use them on all my guns. I didn't at first, but after a few unscientific comparisons, I'm convinced they are the way to go. A boresnake certainly removes any excuse NOT to clean a gun after every use, or at the very least on a consistent basis. Of course a cleaning rod is still a necessity to remove a squib or any other bore obstruction, and if a major brushing is in order to remove a bad case of lead or copper fouling.

 

[zb338]

Brownells sells a lever action (clean from the back) teflon bore guide.
It costs a little over $17.

Zeke

 

[Trapper1]

Thanks ZB and others...
I'm gonna check that out on Brownells now.
Looks like I need to pick up a couple bore snakes!!

 

[EDip]

This is how I tear down my M94. But I would not go thru all this hassle just to clean the bore.
http://www.castbullet.com/misc/tdown.htm

 

[J Miller]

I clean all my lever guns from the muzzle. Marlins included. Each time you take them apart it introduces a bit of wear to the screws. It's not needed for every day cleaning.
I use a multipiece steel rod made by Kleenbore and an brass cone shaped muzzle protector made by the same company. It works very good and I do not risk added wear and tear by taking the gun apart for each cleaning.

Joe

 

[Trapper1]

Thanks for that link, pretty clear...

 

[Bronzebuddha]

I am a huge fan of boresnakes, and now use them on all my guns. I didn't at first, but after a few unscientific comparisons, I'm convinced they are the way to go. A boresnake certainly removes any excuse NOT to clean a gun after every use, or at the very least on a consistent basis. Of course a cleaning rod is still a necessity to remove a squib or any other bore obstruction, and if a major brushing is in order to remove a bad case of lead or copper fouling.

I second this Boresnakes are a god sent!!

 

[Pally McGee]

I clean all my leverguns from the muzzle. I also use a Dewey's rod, which will not scratch it at all. I despise the crap aluminum or brass rods you get in the Outers kits, and other kits. Get a Dewey's or a Tipton rod, go easy - let the chemicals do their work, and you'll never worry about which end of the gun you clean from.

 

[ulrik]

After the pin's out, the lever & lower link will drop enough to manually withdraw the bolt out of the rifle towards the rear (you may have to depress the hammer).

--- and after testing this, I must say: It is impossible to pull out COMPLETELY the bolt, even if pulling down the hammer!
I think, there are additional working steps to remove the bolt (on a Win94).
The trigger group- meaning disassembling first the tang screw, the butt- must be pulled down and the hammer out of the way (back) for the bolt.
But I am willing to learn: Did I make a mistake?
Btw: I own a Win 94 Antique, made 1974.