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I use One-shot, per the directions. hold it at 45 angle and let the cases dry. I do the same for bottleneck cases and straight walled cases.

Been doing it for 20+ years, no stuck cases. been reloading for 59 years, started with 40W motor oil worked good. used graphite and mica as neck lube. worked fine. used miracle waxes, worked ok. but nothing faster and better than one-shot. Some of my heaviest forming is 30-30 into 30 Herret. tried imperial wax vs one-shot. both did a good job, but wax was 35% longer and gave me dirty fingers to boot.

One-shot does necks and case body at the same time. I load for 43 cartridges; if I only loaded for one or two, I'd invest in carbide neck/expander button/ball. I have some for 30 cal (308) and they are good; no lube neededd but since I use One-shot I automatically lube. No wax/oil dents on shoulders with One-shot.

Just my experience, others may differ.
 

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In my experience, One Shot works until it solidifies on the can. Since there is no stirring ball, you can't tell its formed a solid lump until you stick cases and shoot the can out of frustration. I have more than a case of it that way.

I prep cases by rolling them back and forth in a towel with a trace of STP on it. Just gather it up like a bag and wallow the cases around a bit. You can feel it when handling them and they clean easy by doing the same thing in a clean towel. I don't use expanders except to bell .41 Mag mouths. I wipe a little Imperial on the tool and when it feels dry, I do it again.
 

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Outside? None. I just spray with One Shot if that is what I'm using with the brass in a plastic bag. Roll them around and then put out on the bench then have at it. If larger than a 338 or so I inside lube as even with carbide dies I find it much easier especially when I get into my 416 and larger cases
 

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JBelk, you may be confusing One-Shot with another product. One-Shot is made/sold by Hornady and is in a red spray can. It never solidifies in the can. And all the cans have a shaker ball inside to allow stirring.
 

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The shaker ball is new. I have a case of solidified Hornady One Shot. We had problems with it in 1987 and sent back a bunch of it. If you spray and don't get a white film, BEWARE! You are about to stick a case.
STP and Imperial always works. Others do sometimes.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Yup, the can I had way back when, did not have a shaker ball. Glad to hear that Hornady fixed that!
 

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I use a mixture of Marvel Mystery oil and the old Break Free CLP. I still have about 12 oz. of it.

I bought some Imperial a few years ago and use it for inside the neck. I do it first and then the outside using an RCBS Case Lube Pad.

I used ATF 100 years ago and never had an issue...but a colleague made up this lube for me.

I've like dry lube for inside necks for a long time too. I have also swabbed inside the neck with Silicon lubes. I always tumble brass with either walnut or pins if I ever use a synthetic on the inside of the necks.
 

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Elk Whisperer (Super Moderator)
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New to me or unknown origin brass gets Imperial Sizing was outside and Imperial Neck Sizing "dust" inside and out, My brass, if I'm full length resizing (which is rare) gets RCBS water soluble resizing lube from the case lube pad. A "friend" introduced me to Hornady One Shot and I promptly stuck a case. Might be different now, but "if it ain't broke" . . . . .

RJ
 
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New to me or unknown origin brass gets Imperial Sizing was outside and Imperial Neck Sizing "dust" inside and out, My brass, if I'm full length resizing (which is rare) gets RCBS water soluble resizing lube from the case lube pad. A "friend" introduced me to Hornady One Shot and I promptly stuck a case. Might be different now, but "if it ain't broke" . . . . .

RJ
I stuck a case in a Redding 416 Ruger FL Die. Had to pound it out, finally after other methods failed. My problem was that I did not inside lube with homemade lube and "forgot" to lube the outside for some reason. That was an expensive mistake and a learning moment for sure. $65 for a new die and finding one in that caliber was not easy
 

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I use the wax on my fingers. Dont need much. Then the size and decap die. Then the M die. I quit using the expander ball years ago. Then into the tumbler.
 

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Sequence? I pick up a case, roll it in my Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream coated fingers and insert it in the press. Since the size/decap is the first step the case goes from my hand to the die. I don't have any need to lube the case neck IDs as I have never experienced any problems using brass with just the OD lubed (I only reload 30-06 Garand, 308, 30-30 and a few 303 British using mostly Lee dies and no excess neck stretching or too much force needed)...
 

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Well first off I don't use a progressive press for rifle and pistol reloading. I like imperial wax and don't care for one shot.

Lube with finger tips when needed but lot of my cases get done with carbide neck bushings, lee collets or carbide dies for straight walls. For those no lube is reqired.
 

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Sequence? I pick up a case, roll it in my Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream coated fingers and insert it in the press. Since the size/decap is the first step the case goes from my hand to the die. I don't have any need to lube the case neck IDs as I have never experienced any problems using brass with just the OD lubed (I only reload 30-06 Garand, 308, 30-30 and a few 303 British using mostly Lee dies and no excess neck stretching or too much force needed)...
Not to hijack this thread ( then proceeds to do it ) but has anyone tried furniture polish?
 
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