Shooters Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If anyone here can give some advice, I would greatly appriciate it. I know nothing but the basics about muzzle loaders. My father-in-law has a Knight Disc rifle. He always uses Soboted 44 caliber 250 grain bullets. Let us say I wanted to cast a lead bullet for this 50 caliber riffle. How would I size the bullet (I think Lee calls them maxi-balls)? How do you lube them and with what? What kind of charge would I use? I am lost on this one. Please help me expand my horizons past my pistols!!!
Thank you,
Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,429 Posts
Mark....The Knight rifles are highly specialized firearms developed mainly around pushing sabot loads at high velocity. Their 1 turn in 28" Leaves out round ball shooting, except a very low velocity. There are, however, quite a number of conicals avaiable, in moulds and ready cast that do real well. The Knights are safe with up to 150 grs of Pyrodex pellets ([email protected] 50grs), pyrodex RS and Select, and FFg Black. With the conical I like to drop the charge down into the range of 90 grs to 110 grs, depending on group size. If you are going into moulding your own, consider Lee Precision's products. They have various melting pot, moulds ( the REAL bullets is nice), ladles, etc. You should use pure lead. There are many good lubes...SPG, TC's Bore Butter, or home made out of Beeswax, Alox and graphite. I've quit moulding do to time, etc and use either the Hornady Great Plains or Buffalo Bullet. Both come prelubed and can be bought off the Web.
Loading is quite simple...snap a few caps to clear the nipple, drop your charge, seat the conical with a short starter, and push the bullet snug down on the powder. Other words the same as you do with sabot loads.
In sabots , no matter what the "rag experts say" we have found that the Hornady Green is best for what all we do.
If I had a Knight, I would buy Marshall muzzle loader bullet, some SPG Lube, Hornady Greens, drop 100 grs of Elephant Brand FFg, and go hunting! If I was to get back into casting...It would be with a Lee pot and a mould for the 320 gr REAL bullet and the above powder charge.
The best, and only writer I listen to, is Sam Fadala. Find his loading book on muzzleloading and never look back. You are going to find ML opens up a new horizon of pure fun!
Best Regards,James  
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for yor insite, Mr. Gates! This is what I need to know. I will look at those REAL bullet molds.
Thank you,
Mark  
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Not to be argumentative :) , but the 1:28 twist should perform even better with a heavier (hence longer bullet0 than the 320 REAL. Guns either do well with the REALS, or they suck. There does not seem to be any middle ground.

Some acquaintances have done very well with bullets as heavy as 500 grains in their quick twist rifles.

I have two .50 cal, 1:48 twists, and they are OK with the REALS, they shine with bullets in the 360 - 395 range, and they suck with anything heavier than 400 grains, just to indicate that you do need to do a little bit of experimentation.

Just remember, fast twist (faster than 1:48) - heavy bullet, slow twist, (slower than 1:48) light bullet or ball.
1:48 is a compromise, and can usually do OK with ball or conical
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
You might be better off casting pure lead pistol bullets, and run them in a sabot. I know a fellow that tried REAL bullets in 2 seperate rifles with a 1 in 28" twist and ended up going back to sabots. I used 250g pure lead pistol bullets with sabots and found them devistating on whitetails.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top