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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How is the best way to cleal a mold that has lead smears and spotted lead on and inside the mold. Brass brush? Dont want to ruin it already. Its a week old :confused: What is normal maintinance for a mold? Thanks Sleddman
 

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Now here is a way to start a controversy. There are two rather easy ways to clean a mold.
If it is an iron I get the mold hot. I plunge the corner into the lead pot. If Ross Seyfried and many others get away with it with very expensive molds my Lyman and RCBS molds will handle it fine. I have been doing this for 15 years or so – I have been casting since the 1950’s.
Anyway, get your mold hot and then I use brown paper sack and wooden tongue depressors to clean them. If the mold is hot the lead comes right off.

Another way is to have the mold just too hot to touch comfortably and then use a “lead out” cloth as sold by many vendors such as Lyman. These cloths leave residue and you then need to cast bullets for awhile to burn off the residue.

What type of pot are you using? Were you impatient and working too fast?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just getting started in casting. I have started with the old colmen stove and now buying an electric pot. I was taking the first couple of hundred out too quickly and have been learning fast. Thanks for the help.
 

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Elk Whisperer (Super Moderator)
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The wooden tongue depressor sounds like a neat trick William, I'll have to try it. I've been using steel wool or a brass brush to clean the goobers off.

I'd recommend a Lee Lead Pot IV. I've had mine for almost 30 years now and I have no complaints. Keep yer lead/alloy clean and it won't fail. I've got a couple Lee molds but I don't use them much as I've had better luck with Lyman's.

RJ
 

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Is it an aluminum mold by chance? When I really get going (and too hot) I find the lead seems to wet the surface, then you've got a real situation. I've cleaned my cold using a NEW single-edged razor blade, carefully. Haven't ever had to clean the cavities themselves.

I've just discovered the practice of lubricating the sprue plate (underside) with either Bull Plate or Permatex Anti-Seize. Wish I'd thought of that before I broke off my sprue plate shoulder screw trying to get it out of the mold. I haven't used Anti-Seize yet, but certainly will prior to the next casting session. Bull Plate is apparently not distributed by anyone that takes online orders, near as I can tell, but has to be ordered I guess by USPS mail or something.
 

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something I have found that works for me is paint every suface of the mould with Rapine mould prep I(I believe it contains a moly solution, other thing is I preheat my blocks on an electric hot plate
 
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