[quick2learn]

In the world of semiautomatic pistols, I had been taught that cleaning rods should only be inserted into a barrels' BREACH end - never the muzzle, as even minor scratches could cause serious trajectory problems.

However, all the REVOLVER tutorials I've seen show cleaning from the muzzle side. Why is it different with revolvers?

Also, I had been taught to apply gun oil to the inside of my semiautomatic's barrel. However, the REVOLVER tutorials say to AVOID oil in the barrel. What's up?

 

[MontyF]

Welcome to the shooters forum.

Good questions.
Why not to clean from the muzzle you pretty well covered. The worst offender is jointed cleaning rods. Each section gathers abrasive material and the joints themselves act like shaper bits. A cartridge case can be modified to serve as a bore guide if cleaning from the muzzle. In some instances there are no alternatives than go in from the muzzle end, like on revolvers and many semi-automatic firearms.
Even when cleaning from the breach end, a bore guide is a required piece of equipment in my opinion.
Lube in the barrel, chamber or cartridge case is a no-no. Can't think of an instance where I recall it being recommended for any firearm.

 

[JBelk]

Do whatever you can to protect the crown. THAT is the reason for cleaning direction. Some guns are made so you cant clean from the rear so we just deal with it.

 

[Chesterton]

Bore snakes are useful when dealing with revolvers and lever actions.
Otherwise just be careful when using cleaning rods.
Either tool has the potential for damaging the crown, IMHO, and a rod will be requisite sooner or later as Bore snakes have their limitations, so exercise caution!

Oil the barrel/chambers? Sure, as a rust preventative running an oily patch down the bore before putting your gun away for a light coat has always been recommended---but get that oil out with a dry patch before shooting.

 

[MikeG]

Just use a muzzle protector or guide if you have to clean from the muzzle. There are a number of firearms, not just revolvers, where it is not practical to clean from the breech.

I've never seen advice to not put oil in a revolver barrel; not sure where you got that. A light film of rust preventative is a good idea in any gun barrel... unless you want rust!

 

[MontyF]

Just use a muzzle protector or guide if you have to clean from the muzzle. There are a number of firearms, not just revolvers, where it is not practical to clean from the breech.

I've never seen advice to not put oil in a revolver barrel; not sure where you got that. A light film of rust preventative is a good idea in any gun barrel... unless you want rust!

Must of misunderstood the OP. Figured he was saying to keep the semi-auto barrel oiled and shoot the revolver dry. If using oil for rust protection ...fine. Patch it out before the first round though.

 

[Stob]

There is oil in a bore, then there is a bore that has had a lightly oiled patch run through the bore. The later, does no harm, and actually has benifits. Those that believe in breaking in a new barrel will greatly see better and quicker results with a bore that has some residual in it. Try that with a bone dry bore and you will spend a lot of time cleaning.

 

[JBelk]

"The proper amount of gun oil, if applied to a shot glass, won't ruin good whiskey."

It does NOT take much at all to do the job.

 

[notgoodshooter]

I lube the bores of all my firearms for storage with a lightly oiled patch, my oil of choice is raw lanolin.

 

[Ricochet Rabbit]

Bore snake. I have 2 rifles that cant be cleaned from the breech other than that, or i have to disassemble them which after being sighted in is the last thing i want to do. Im dating myself, but my service sidearm was the S&W .38spcl. After training we cleaned them from the muzzle, us who were familliar with firearms, took tape and covered the crown to protect it. Had to get the job done

 

[Tnhunter]

My sidearm in Desert Storm('91) was a .38Spcl as well. Got the Berreta 9mm in Somalia though ('93).

 

[huffmanite]

FWIW, About 6 or so years ago, the Garrand Collectors Association quarterly magazine had an article about an experiment they performed on a Garrand barrel, to see how many strokes with a standard 3 piece G.I. issue steel cleaning rod it took to ruin a muzzle. They used an armorer muzzle guage and lets say it measured 2 on the barrel. There intent was to deliberately rub the rod on the muzzle with each stroke and try to do it in a different location of the muzzle each time......so the wear would be even around the muzzle. They wanted to see how many strokes it took to move the muzzle gauge measure from 2 to 3. Many, many strokes later and they had not gotten the gauge measure to move toward the 3 on it. They came to the conclusion that the average life span of a Garrand barrel was around 5,000 rounds.....bore would be shot out before any serious damage could be done on a muzzle by improper use of a G.I. cleaning rod.

 

[JBelk]

The armorer's gauge is not what determines accuracy though it is an indicator of loosening tolerances.
If you have to clean from the muzzle, saw the base off a smaller caliber case and use the neck as a guide. (.270 works great on 30 calibers.)

 

[Combat Diver]

You can also get or coat your own cleaning rod with rubber. Another option would to use an aluminum cleaning rod. Its softer then the steel.


CD

 

[Cheezywan]

Boresnake is a purdy good mouse trap for this kind of thing. Can also tie a loop in heavy braided fishing line to pull appropriately sized patches through a bore if needed. Pinch a split-shot on the other end to drop it through. Is just sort of a "field expedient" method. Be mindful of patch size!

 

[JBelk]

Just remember please, Aluminum oxide is one of the best abrasives known to man and ANY rod that is softer than the barrel is a lap in the presence of dirt.

The bore snakes are the very best solution and roughly 200 times more effective than a single patch on a string.

 

[MikeG]

FWIW, About 6 or so years ago, the Garrand Collectors Association quarterly magazine had an article about an experiment they performed on a Garrand barrel, to see how many strokes with a standard 3 piece G.I. issue steel cleaning rod it took to ruin a muzzle. They used an armorer muzzle guage and lets say it measured 2 on the barrel. There intent was to deliberately rub the rod on the muzzle with each stroke and try to do it in a different location of the muzzle each time......so the wear would be even around the muzzle. They wanted to see how many strokes it took to move the muzzle gauge measure from 2 to 3. Many, many strokes later and they had not gotten the gauge measure to move toward the 3 on it. They came to the conclusion that the average life span of a Garrand barrel was around 5,000 rounds.....bore would be shot out before any serious damage could be done on a muzzle by improper use of a G.I. cleaning rod.

Interesting, but did they coat the rod with carbon fouling, or any other contaminant?

 

[JBelk]

That 'test' is pretty much worthless because it is the wear on ONE land that most effects accuracy and a plug gauge can't 'see' that. Only uniform wear can be measured by plug gauge.

 

[Cheezywan]

The bore snakes are the very best solution and roughly 200 times more effective than a single patch on a string.

If you have one. If not, the patch and string would be (roughly) infinitely more effective than a boresnake (check my math).
I said "field expedient". So as to avoid cleaning with a rod from the muzzle.

 

[douglas34474]

I have five Garands. I have a one piece steel "barracks" rod that I use for cleaning. I insert the bare rod down the bore from the muzzle end of the rifle. I then attach the brush or patch holder to he rod through the action. You then PULL the rod/brush out of the barrel. Doing it this way, the rod does not flex and it does not touch the bore.

I picked this method up from an old FM issued by the services.