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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,
I am new to Beartooth, and i got a question for ya.. if you can answer with a picture, it would help as well, if not, fine.

I have been reloading for almost 30 years,but recently started for "semi-auto."
Glock model 20, 10mm

I would like to use beartooth 200 gr. FN GC.

Problem is... "I do not know, "where" to taper crimp this puppy.

I am used to large magnum revolvers, and a "roll crimp: is easy to do , and easy to know, "where to do it.

But, with this cast bullet, and the "crimp grove," starring at me.. "i do not know how to, or where to place the crimp(taper).

Can some of you guys help me out here in "details" please
Any and all help greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

CanyonMan
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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CM,

I've loaded that bullet in a .40 Glock, so may be of help.

OK.... here's the deal:

You need to find the longest OAL that will feed through your gun, and eject a loaded round.

Very easy:

First, remove the barrel.

Then, start a bullet in a resized, expanded, unprimed case (no powder either!).

Start with the bullet just barely in the case, where it is way too long. Seat the bullet a little deeper at a time until the loaded round will drop in the chamber, and the base of the case is flush with the top end of the barrel (just like a loaded round of factory ammo would be). Don't try to crimp yet.

Now... when you get that length figured out, reassemble your gun. Put that round you loaded in the magazine and try to feed it from the magazine into the chamber, then try to eject it. Don't be surprised if it won't eject. If so, drop the mag, and poke it out the mag well.

Basically, keep working with your dummy round until you find out what is going to work in your gun.

That's the correct OAL for that bullet in your gun.

To crimp... first seat all the bullets without crimping. You may have to unscrew the die a little to make sure it is not touching the case mouth. Until you get the hang of it, don't try to seat and crimp in one step. Then back out the seating stem, and adjust the die down till it just pushes the case mouth against the side of the bullet. Doesn't matter if you have no cannelure, just bump it a tiny bit. You want it to just barely dig in to the side of the bullet, yet the case mouth must also stick out enough from the side of the bullet that it won't go too far in to the chamber. Experiment with your dummy round first.

Make sense?
 

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Canyonman
If you can see a taper crimp its too much. I assume you are belling your cases. Try seating your bullets to your correct O.A.L. with the die not closing the belled mouth to the point you can still easy catch your fingernail on it, Then back off the seating stem and screw the die in till it gets hard to feel the case mouth and you got it!:D Check too see if you can push the bullet deeper with firm but not lots of pressure agains't your bench if it does go a little more with the crimp.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mike G, and Doublejk... "You both make perfect since, and thank you very much... "BUT".. sorry for my ignorance on this.. the thing i am "hung up on," is.. the "bevel" on the cast bullet, where i 'normally' roll crimp my revlver bullets.

e.g. you know how you bring the brass up just under the nose of the bullet, at the top of the "bevel" and "roll crimp it."

Well i can not get it through my head what to do with that bevel! sorry.. i ain't getting this part. the dies and settings etc.. i am fine with all that.. it is just that on a "fmj" i know what OAL i need, then i seat the bullets.. then i come back and adjust the crimp die accordingly, and give a slight taper crimp..

But, with the "cast" haveing that Bevel there where i would norally roll crimp with no problem, i can't seem to grasp whether the bevel is below the rim of the case mouth, or crimp on the nose ofthe bullet, or ???

Guys, i'm sure this is simple.. i'm just not grabbing this for somereason..
can we try this part again please?
if it were anything else i would be fine.. but this has got me stumped.

CanyonMan
 

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Canyonman
Like we said you find the correct O.A.L. for your gun first. Then regardless of where the bevel is on the bullet you need to taper crimp it right there, at the correct O.A.L. Thats whats most important with the autoloaders. If you crimp it too deep it will slide in the chamber too far and there goes your headspace. Just IGNORE the bevel on the bullet unless it is in the right place and then be sure you don't over do it. I like to just be able to feel the mouth of the case with my fingernail so I know my headspace is O.K.
Hope this helps you.
 

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Hi, CanyonMan:
By the look of it that bullet was designed for the .38-40 which allows more bullet out of the case than the 10mm. The 200 gr. FN has a nose to crimp length of .280". Allowable nose to case mouth in the .38-40 is .285" and .268" in the 10mm. (Hornady numbers.) Therefore you'll likely have to seat the crimp groove into the case, which makes a roll crimp impossible. No problem, that's how millions of .45 ACP 200 gr. SWCs are seated.

So as the guys say, find the correct seating depth, which should be to a point on the front driving band, then give it a light taper crimp, just like a fmj. Hopefully you won't have to seat it so deep that the ogive is into the case. Most of these Auto rounds headspace on the case mouth and you don't want too much crimp or the cartridge might go too far into the chamber. (DOUBLEJK snuck in ahead of me, have to type faster :)) Don't know about your Glock, but the extractor on a 1911 will keep a cartridge back againest the breech face even if it's over crimped.

Bye
Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
GOT IT!

MikeG..Doublejk...Jack,

Thank all you guys very much. Sorry i was so slow on this. Just one of those things.

I appreciate all you guys time and work and help to me..

I got it.
Ready to get to work now..

Again thank you all very much!

CanyonMan
 

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Now while we are on the subject of crimping cast bullets, how do I crimp cast bullets for my 1886 Jap. Winchester rifle with its tube magazine. Should I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die, or bite into the bullet with my RCBS seating die. I am new at this lever action and cast bullet game.
 

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Shrike
Crimp them in the crimp groove with your RCBS seating die with a firm roll crimp(the heavier the load the firmer the crimp) this baby can generate some backthrust. I would suggest seating them first and then crimping them as a seperate step, it works out better for me then crimping and seating at the same time. The Lee factory crimp dies have worked good for me on jacketed bullets but seem to mishapen the cast pills too the point accuracy suffers in my loads.:)
 
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