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I've noticed that some cap'n ball shooters like to put bore butter on top of their bullets while others prefer using a lubricated wad between their ball and powder. I have only ever used the wads and want to try something different because the wads are expensive. Crisco is cheaper than cheap, so if I can ditch the wads to save a few bucks, I'd do it right away. What I don't know is: Is it safe, will it harm the revolver, and exactly how much do I put on top of the bullets? Does it only work if I use bore butter, or can I use Crisco?
 

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Karp,

I've used Crisco in a C&B recolver to prevent chain fire of the cylinders. Yes, it works well and I just blob it in and level it with a knife. Crisco does get runny in the summer heat and I prefer BoreButter that holds up much better in the summer heat. I have also used half paraffin and half Vaseline warmed and blended. That works fine too.

Gary
 

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In my opinion you are much better off using the lubed wads. Crisco is an absolute mess after a few rounds. I have also noticed when using Crisco over the balls after a few rounds most of the Crisco over the other chambers is gone so effectiveness is doubtful.
Bore Butter seems a little thicker and will hold up better than Crisco,but it is still a mess afterwards.
 

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Crisco is an absolute mess after a few rounds.

I have also noticed when using Crisco over the balls after a few rounds most of the Crisco over the other chambers is gone so effectiveness is doubtful.

I've been using Crisco lard exclusively in my C&B revolvers (a Ruger ROA & a couple of repro 1860's) for over 30 years, and wouldn't change a thing.

As stated above, just seat the ball & spread the Crisco into the chamber with a popsicle stick until the chamber mouth is filled flush with the face of the cylinder.

Shooting C&B revolvers shouldn't be expected to be clean & neat, like firing cartridge guns - they are FUN, though !

The "mess" Crisco creates is actually an asset, since it keeps fouling loosey/goosey, which gives two results: You can shoot all day w/o cleaning; and when it comes time to clean, it's E-Z-Peazy.

Although YMMV, I've never experienced Crisco melting from the other chambers upon firing - which I normally do in a very short time before re-loading the cylinder.

.
 

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Another vote for Crisco, but some times with some bees wax mixed in.

In cool weather Crisco is fine and will stay put on top of the adjacent cylinders.

In hot weather it helps if you heat it up on the stove just enough to be able to melt the bees wax into it. The same thing also works with Spit Ball and Bore Butter. The bees wax will thicken up the Crisco and ensure it stays put if it gets warm. How much bees wax depends on how warm the weather will be.

In any case, Crisco, Spit Ball, Bore Butter, or any of the above with Bees wax will do a superb job of keeping the fouling soft, so that a) it doesn't start jamming the cylinder, and b) can be easily wiped off during your shooting session. Yes, it will get all over the cylinder face and all over the front end of the revolver, but so what, just wipe it off.

I only used wads if I plan on carrying it in a holster on a hot day or leaving it loaded for a period of time. However, when I use a wad I also use a lubricant between the wad and the ball. Any of the above lubes will work, but don't go crazy as you want just enough to fit between the ball and the wad, so you don't force the lube back around the wad when you seat the ball.

The lube under the wad approach gives you superb accuracy and will also leave the fouling in the barrel soft and easy to remove, with less mess than the grease on top of the ball method. That's nice if you're taking just one or two shots and then re-holstering.
 

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I have used wads lubed with Crisco and also over the balls in C&B revolvers. As mentioned warm weather shooting is more messy but never had an issue using it.
 

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When I was younger I started with the crisco over the balls method, Never again. After a cylinder or two your hands are well greased also. Wads are dirt cheap, if you make them yourself. Lots of people use old felt hats and such, but I just buy the wool material from Duro-felt and punch out my own. I lube them with melted beeswax cut with coconut oil. These days I use more conicals (Kaido bullets) that have lube grooves in them. I lube the grooves with beeswax/coconut oil and load them without a wad, Nice and clean, clean hands.
 

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I used nothing but Crisco for years and it worked fine, but it did get messy. More recently I started using the beeswax / Crisco mix and love it. I'm still experimenting with ratios, but 50/50 by weight seems to be pretty good.
 

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I shoot the Ruger Old Army and use lube for BPCR. It is stiffer and mixing beeswax with Crisco is OK. I don't use wads because I want full power for deer and the gun sure kills them well with a RB. They do not chain fire from the front with a fit ball.
The worst gun to blast the lube away is the Remington. The cylinder is smaller and the next chamber is close to the gap.
If you want to smell like french fries, shoot Crisco Creedmore once. Friend Joe loves the smell.
He did not clean good enough last time and the cylinders rusted to the pins on his Walkers. I had to put the cylinders in a padded vise as I pulled the hammers and turned the grips to get them loose. I use STP on the pins.
The reason for lube is to soften barrel fouling so the next shot shoots it clean. If it blows away, fouling gets tougher. Chain fires happen at the nipple end.
 

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Crisco? YMMV

Back in the day used several substances on the Ruger Old Army in BP matches. There were no problems. Yes, It was messy. To me, yes it needed to be on the seated ball. Most important was to have the right sized ball and a the nipples capped on the unfired chambers. Later I used a bee's way based compound. Worked great but no better. Did get a spotting scope objective lens really gooped up with Crisco.
 

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I use a 40:60 bees wax crisco mix on my C&B 1860 Remington repcula. Works great isn't runny in the hot summer sun very resonable cost (I have my own honey bees) and after a day of shooting my hands are well moistened to prevent craking and chapping.
 

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Easy way out ? ? ?

try some CRL cutting wax --- $7.00 @ Amazon for a nice size stick --- the melting point is about as good as it gets.
 

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I used Crisco a lot when I was in High school with my first cap and ball revolver. The only problem I had was it doesn't like hot weather. I'd load it up in the morning, walk around hunting for the better part of the day and the bottom of my holster got pretty greasy. I ended up mixing it with some bees wax (toilet bowl rings) and it seemed to hold up a bit better.
 

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Bore butter has no beeswax. White petrolatum is the main ingredient and an unidentified mineral wax. Maybe why I don't like it for BP.
I use Mathew's lube for my C&B, made for BPCR.
 

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I've noticed that some cap'n ball shooters like to put bore butter on top of their bullets while others prefer using a lubricated wad between their ball and powder. I have only ever used the wads and want to try something different because the wads are expensive. Crisco is cheaper than cheap, so if I can ditch the wads to save a few bucks, I'd do it right away. What I don't know is: Is it safe, will it harm the revolver, and exactly how much do I put on top of the bullets? Does it only work if I use bore butter, or can I use Crisco?
When I shot BP way back when, all we used on a revolvers (usually 1858 New Army's) was Crisco. We just filed the chambers till it was flush with the front of the cylinder. It can be messy, but it works.
 

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Another Crisco user here for my 51' Navy and 62' Pocket Police. Range is in the backyard so no need to keep loaded for prolong periods of time in the heat during a humid NC summer. After the 2-3 cylinder just wipe the gun down and continue on shooting.


CD
 

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Plain toilet bowl rings works in the heat (Ruger Old Army) but Crisco in the "winter". Either one is pretty cheap.

RJ
 
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