It does in my .243 varmint rifle shooting 58 grain Vmax's on top of H4350 and in my 300RUM. I'm guessing the burrs left behind interfere with the powder ignition?
Only you can answer that, after testing.Hi all quick question : dose flash hole deburring make any difference to accuracy
I've observed many burrs that were very 'lopsided', meaning very tall on one side of the hole and non-existent on the other side (relatively speaking). That can be the nature of a punched hole operation, material displacement is uncontrolled, and goes where it wants to go. Many in the BR community believed that when the 'fat cases', i.e. 22 Rem. BR and PPC came into play, the wider/shorter powder column (than the previous slender/longer 222 Rem. and 6 x 47 Rem. Mag. type cases) was more susceptible to variations in ignition due to such 'lopsided' burrs. Removing those burrs were part of the overall solution toward ammo excellence. One believes what one believes until proven otherwise. For now, I deburr.It can't hurt to do it. Some brass I've done has had an a lot of burrs in the flash hole. Can't see getting a consistent ignition with that being the case.
Jack, My tool comes from the 1980's from the BR custom crowd (I think it is a Sinclair), long before the mainstream (Lyman, Hornady, et al) companies offered such 'luxury items'. Similar to the K & M unit shown below, it has a sleeve near the tip, just behind the countersink drill bit deburr tip (which also chamfers), that prevents any over depth effect, since it is non-case length sensitive.after trimming so each debur is the same depth
Take a look back at my recent 'BTW' edit, I found a write up on that tool from an old 6mm BR.com site that gives a pretty good detailed review and it's operation/benefits. A good tool to copy.Great pictures of what it means to uniform flash holes.
All my tools are copies of Sinclair, Wilson and others seen in BR catalogs or mentioned in magazine articles. I've adapted some tools to do different things, like turn necks on the lathe without having to turn it off and on. When you have tools you can make tools, too.
We can be a creative lot. My Daughter was born in 1972. When she grew tired of a talking doll, I used the battery powered motor driven voice box. It had a 2" (roughly) diameter plastic wheel that had the 'voice grooves' (like a vinyl record) driven by a tiny motor. I mounted (glued) an RCBS powder trickler to a 1/8" thick plywood, put a rubber band around the wheel that was mounted on the motor shaft. I put the rubber band wheel in friction contact with the trickler shaft and mounted the battery holder (one AA) on the plywood, cut the wire in two and soldered a short piece of spring steel to one end of the wire which bridged across the gap to make contact with the other end of the wire. I could push the spring down to rotate the trickler without taking my eye off of scale balance beam as it rose to zero. The tricky part was finding drive rubber bands with consistent thickness, as the thin parts would loose contact with the trickler shaft. After a couple of years of use, I converted to using a Black and Decker battery powered screw driver with a hex adapter that fit the trickler shaft...much more consistent. Nobody had yet come out with a commercial powered trickler at the time.For a time, I had my uniformer adapted to a battery operated pencil sharpener. It worked great but not long enough to make another when the magic smoke escaped.
Darkker, Nor have I, at least in the sense and definition of a 'hanging Chad', like the paper 'flaps' of the infamous 2000 election. That is not going to happen in this brass case example.I've never once found a hanging Chad in my brass, so have had zero reason to do anything to them.