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Hey minor inquiry;
I got a Hornady case prep center. I use the inside/outside chamfers a lot. And primer pocket reamer. Just wondering do these tools get dull or is it my imagination? I know brass is much softer than hardened steel but they are not the same as new? Plus I still have primer seating problems if I don't ream the **** out of military crimps.
Any feedback?
Bullthrower
 

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Even my old RCBS case trimmer cutter head gets dull from trimming brass. I checked with RCBS about having the cutter head sharpened but they sent me a new cutter head without charge. You might check with Hornady and see what they can do for you.

My new case trimmer has a carbide cutter head so I'm hoping that it will be a long time before I need a new one.

I use the RCBS primer pocket swager for military crimps. It doesn't remove any brass, it just pushes it away from the primer pocket.
 

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The RCBS Primer Pocket Swaging Tool Kit also forms the displaced Military crimp into a Radius Chnampfer that does ease seating primers.

As to dull cutters; both HSS and Carbide Cutters will get dull with use. the HSS ones can be home sharpened if you know how but the Carbide ones require a MUCH better job of Sharpening so I take mine to a local Commercial Tool sharpening service and have them sharpened for cutting Brass. I( believe they use Diamond Impregnated Wheels to do the Sharpening.

Best Regards,
Chev. William
 

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Diamond, CBN (I think), or "green" (vitrified) grinding wheels for carbide. There might be other ways but that's what I can think of.

A little cutter like for trimming brass could probably be touched up without too much trouble at home with a small diamond lap, if you have steady hands and good light and probably some magnification also.
 

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i know if it is a steel cutter for trim your case and use it on nickel cases it will dull it bad.I got a new one and use that only on the brass and use the dull one on the nickel cases.I use a Lyman reamer for the crimp on the mil cases sofar no problems.
 

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they do get dull. Those that get a replacement are lucky. Wont happen from Lyman.

If you have a good saw sharpening service in your area they might be able to help. they might not want to fool w/ em saying it costs us to set up the sharpener.

Had an old friend that had a motto "I can sharpen anything but a sharp knife." He did mine a couple times but he went to heaven to keep em sharp there.
 

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Because these cutters are steel and are not being used for anything harder than brass, I don't think they heat treat them to be very hard. A hard edge is in danger of chipping in brass due to gouging overloading the edges. Though I must say my Wilson tools continue to be sharp after a fair amount of use. He may simply have figured the materials out better.

The other factor is going to be carbon. If the cases are not well cleaned out and the carbon has aged, it can be quite hard, as Humpy's Carbon Wars posts describe. Hard enough to scratch and dull steel. So you do best to get the cases well cleaned out before cutting any brass away.
 
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Carbon hardening. I read about it and believe it will speed up the dulling of the knives. I now do what was recommended: either give the case mouths a quick brushing at the range or do it as soon as possible once getting home. The longer they sit, the harder it gets... so it is said.

My Lee cutters are HSS and some have dulled. I've tried to sharpen them with ceramic stones. It left me humbled so I ordered new cutters.
 

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Look up your local cutter grinder shop. Same folks that things like mill cutters and such for the tooling industry. Some tool and die shops have their own setups.

Used to bring mine to work before I retired. Now I do it by hand.
 

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A little late in reading this but to be honest I use Imperial sizing Die Lube on everything, even on my cutting tools. When you have metal against metal-even brass they still get dull. Wood working tools even get dull when working on wood. I found that using Imperial lube keeps them sharp and they cut smoother. My 2 pennies.
Dave
 
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