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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I ran into a problem here. I was lucky to get an FN auto 5 with a 55xxx serial number. When but every she'll gets stuck while getting ejected. Or let's say he is trying to eject but he can't do it:)
Does any of you have a documentation on what year mine could have been build?
102138
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Well...before 1939. As to your ejection issue. It could be a couple of things. It could have been chambered for 2 5/16 inch shells instead of the 2 3/4 inch made today which can cause the hull to not eject properly. Also, your friction rings could be incorrectly set which can cause issues. Having them set to light can actually cause damage to the receiver, so be careful. I believe the Browning site might have manuals. There is a link on the following page.


Good luck and all the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will take some pictures from the ring and how it is installed...
Could a reason also be that the springs are worn out? I mean they have been in there for some time probably.
It is labeled in 16/70 and i tried 16/70 and 16/67,5 those are the metric caliber sizes.
 

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70mm means that it is chambered for 2 3/4 inch shells. It is likely that the friction rings are set up for higher velocity loads. Also check the ejector. If it is broken or missing the hull won't eject. I haven't worked on a Browning style auto loader in a number of years, so am rusty on the friction ring set up. JBelk should be along to maybe have some more insight.

Here is a link to the A 5 Service Manual.


Good luck and all the best.
 

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The A-5 is a mechanical ballet. If you can tell me EXACTLY how it fails the problem is pretty easy to find.
The friction rings are first in line but there's a bunch that happens during the time the gun is operating.

You'll need DUMMY shells to check function. I can lead you through the process if you like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am currently in poland let me try to get those dummy shells. And i will take some pictures. Next week. I know that i need the P011280 lock screw.
 

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A very easy check/fix that I've shown to others with a similar problem is to ensure that your barrel is seated as far down as it's supposed to be. If any of the barrel shank that's supposed to be completely inside the receiver is showing, it's not getting it's full and proper range of backward-forward movement.

A beautiful A-5!! And, welcome to the forum. We hope you stay and join us 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hunter, thanks for the welcome i am originally from Kentucky but my dad got stationed in Germany with the 1st armored devision.
I just got a rare gun collectors liscense here in Germany and i am collecting american patents until 1910. Therefore i will stay here a long time:). Some of the guns need some love and parts like a 1895 flat side Winchester i just bought the other week.
 

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Hunter, thanks for the welcome i am originally from Kentucky but my dad got stationed in Germany with the 1st armored devision.
I just got a rare gun collectors liscense here in Germany and i am collecting american patents until 1910. Therefore i will stay here a long time:). Some of the guns need some love and parts like a 1895 flat side Winchester i just bought the other week.
Welcome aboard! I spent 6yrs of my career in Germany and enjoyed it. I flew out of Katterbach AAF in the early-mid '80s and out of Stuttgart intl, 88-92.

I bought 3 or 4 European shotguns while on my 2nd tour there.

Best of luck with your collecting!!
 

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Welcome aboard!! Are you taking orders for such guns?? Might look for a FN 22 auto (Rem. 24/241, Brng 'slim waist') and Trombones (Win M61). They were sold in Europe long before in the US.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I want to look into getting a dealer license because that will make it easier also to purchase guns and import or export them. If i run into one of those is can buy them:)
 

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In my experience, you'll need a black belt in bureaucracy to wade through the various export, import and agent licenses and permits needed to move firearms around the globe. One thing seems to be a constant--if you're going to ship guns, Flying Tigers is about the only outfit that will cross the ocean for you.
I've been going over in my head what you need to look for in that gun. The A-5 has more than its share!
Can you take it apart to examine some things?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm an Army child that grew up in Germany. Getting that collectors license was a huge act.
Of course i can take her apart. I'm an engineer i can do everything 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I just have to get back my house. Will be there tomorrow evening.
 

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An engineer? So, you can drive a train? (old lawyer's joke when the engineer testifies against his case.). :)

FIRST-- Just because it's broke doesn't mean its dangerous or worn out in an A-5, but something things needs to be fixed to extend life.

"Shells stuck"- The most common failure with sticking is the unfired 'next in line' shell stops on the carrier and doesn't feed into the chamber. Sometimes it blocks the fired shell from leaving the gun, too. It's difficult to clear and a PITA, but the solution is usually simple. Replace the magazine spring. Also check behind the right hand (as you're shooting it) shell stop which is the plate that the carrier latch button releases. Some weed seeds are perfect to prevent that shell stop from fully working. It works by the rim of the 'next in line' shell pushing on it after being released by the other shell stop.

"Fail to eject"-- has several suspects. Friction rings not allowing full movement of the barrel is first. The ejector itself is next. Notice the ejector works backwards to other guns, too. The ejector is mounted to the barrel extension which moves forward relative to the shell which is being held by the extractor in the bolt. Instead of the base of the shell 'hitting' a fixed ejector, the ejector hits the base of the shell from behind and kicks it out the open receiver port.

"Too much Friction"--- The primary culprit in a bolt that 'drags' is the action spring link that's attached to the locking block on one end and compresses the spring that extends back into the stock. That link is split because it is what re-cocks the hammer. One leg of the link could be broken or the plunger could be dirty or the spring tube rusty. All three are pretty common. (The action spring tube is fragile where it screws into the top tang of the receiver. Many have been broken by trying to work the action with the butt stock off.)

"Cracks in major parts"--- Cracks develop in the rear corners of the locking lug recess of the barrel extension. Unless that rear surface is setting back and causing a headspace problem, they seem to keep shooting.
Cracks in the interior corners of the breech bolt are more serious, but they're seen many times with no further deformation.
A broken track on the locking block needs attention and usually the barrel extension does too.

For those that want to find cracks in metals without expensive 'kits'--- Spray the part with brake clean or dip in alcohol and immediately wipe it dry and even more immediately spray the part with common aerosol foot powder. Look for the dark lines that show up when the solvent leaks out of invisible cracks and stains the powder.

It is the bronze friction rings that wear out, you don't need to replace both. You can 're-new' a bronze friction ring by relieving the ends of the ring so its mashed further together by the action of the steel taper in the magazine tube ring. As the gun fires, the mag tub ring compresses the bronze ring so it 'brakes' on the magazine tube. As the ring wears, the ends butt together on recoil and the brakes dont work as well.
I've found Auto Transmission Fluid to be the perfect lube for the mag tube but brand new A-5s had common vaseline on them out of the box.

you can see an A-5 work on the bench by loading dummies and imitating the long recoil action by pushing back on the barrel all the way then releasing slowly. A metal ballet!
 

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My best friend had his Dads A-5 , wasn't first year of production, but was pre WWII but had the same problems .
It was chambered / set up for a slightly shorter shell than the one we use now , 2 5/16" ?
A local gunsmith enlarged the ejection port and set it up for 2 3/4" shells .

If it is chambered for 2 3/4" then the friction rings have to be placed in the right order ... it's been so long ago I don't remember how to do it ...but set up in the correct way they will work for light , heavy and maybe magnum loads ...but the friction rings have to be in a precise arrangement to work .. I'm sure that info is on the inter-web somewhere .
Good luck , that's a fine shotgun ,
Gary
 

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2 9/16th was the old standard but his gun is 70mm chambered. I might have A-5 ring positions tattooed to my retinas!
Assuming 2 rings of 2 3/4" guns. The top ring is always the bronze ring and the tapered end goes up. The steel ring goes taper down next to the receiver with the spring on top. It's out of action for low base loads.
For high base loads, put the steel ring on top of the spring with the taper up, then the bronze ring.
Notice there are ways of 'fine tuning' by flipping the bronze ring and the steel ring so the bronze works more or less on the 'impact' of the magazine tube ring which is part of the barrel.
The taper of that magazine tube ring matches the tapered end of the bronze ring. It closes down tighter, faster if the tapers match, but has less friction if the square end is up.
Three inch mags have the directions for the four rings on a sticker inside the forearm for a refresher, but they work the same way but in pairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It says 70mm but i doubt it... With a 55000 built number it should be really early possibly in the first 5 years. I will try to contact FN to get a confirmation and will take some pics from the rings...
 

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FN is going to say the records no longer exist. Best guess is about 228,000 guns between 1902 and the fall of FN to the Germans in '39.
Factories many times have batches of parts that are out of spec and need another operation and some are in one section of the plant while newer parts gets ahead in line.
I've got a 62xxx 12 gauge with straight grip stock that the Browning Museum thinks is from 1927 or '28 as a special run after John M died. He's pictured with straight grip M93, M97 and A-5s on trap ranges, so must have preferred them. I owned (for a very short time), an original Browning A-5, straight grip, serial #7xx along with a Browning Bros. Ogden, Single shot 45-70. They were on display in a tiny cafe' for decades.
 

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Welcome to the Forum. Glad to see you here and hope that you post often. That is a nice looking shotgun and you did very well. All the best...
Gil
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Welcome to the Forum. Glad to see you here and hope that you post often. That is a nice looking shotgun and you did very well. All the best...
Gil
Thanks Gil, i will. There are not really such forum here in Germany....
 
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