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I imagine that you can do it with that, with some finesse. Put masking tape on your stock to protect it from marring, mount the butt pad and then mark the mounting face with a sharp 'tool'; 'exacto' hobby knife, maybe? Then remove and start grinding away towards your marks. You'll need a vise. May take several mounting/dismounting iterations, and be careful to keep your grinding on-plane with the stock profile.

I settled into the team approach. I had an oscillating rotary table grinder, my neighbor bought a butt-pad jig. He's done several for shotguns, and I've done one for a shotgun. Easy to keep the grind 'square' with the table surface and the jig, but still some cleanup needed with an orbital sander at the transition between the toe and heel grind angles.

If you are refinishing the stock too, easy to get a nice smooth fit. Good luck with the project.
 

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The last one I did took several hours of my time. Since my gunsmith charges $25 labor to do the work with me furnishing the materials I figure its cheaper letting him do the job. Currently he's done four pads for me in the last five years. Really not worth my troubles nor investment in equipment to do a proper job.
 

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You can bring it pretty close with a saw and then hand sand it to final dimensions. Use lemon oil to keep from tearing the rubber. Scribe a line around the butt and start to match your contours. Then, you can remove it from the rifle and work with less danger of damaging the stock. Just fit and try, fit and try.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I imagine that you can do it with that, with some finesse. Put masking tape on your stock to protect it from marring, mount the butt pad and then mark the mounting face with a sharp 'tool'; 'exacto' hobby knife, maybe? Then remove and start grinding away towards your marks. You'll need a vise. May take several mounting/dismounting iterations, and be careful to keep your grinding on-plane with the stock profile.

I settled into the team approach. I had an oscillating rotary table grinder, my neighbor bought a butt-pad jig. He's done several for shotguns, and I've done one for a shotgun. Easy to keep the grind 'square' with the table surface and the jig, but still some cleanup needed with an orbital sander at the transition between the toe and heel grind angles.

If you are refinishing the stock too, easy to get a nice smooth fit. Good luck with the project.
Thanks Shawn, yeah actually its a new buttstock so that might make it a little easier. thanks everyone for the input, ill let you know soon how it pans out.
 

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I buy the slip on Limb Savers. That preserves the orginal factory stock in case I want to sell the firearm and the Limb Savers do work.

Jerry
 

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I use a jig from Brownells but can't remember the brand name. It has two long sides and a short bottom and hangs from a stand to be used with a disc sander. One side slides up and down so the angle of the stock can be matched with the jig. I scrw the new pad to the stock, scribe lightly around it with a sharp scribe, move it to the jig and use white stick chalk to fill in the scribe mark making it very easy to see then press it to the disc sander and sand just to the mark. I use 60 to 80 grit on a 12in disc and can sand one to fit in about 3 to 4 min. If your scribe was sharp and your outline crisp it will be a near perfect fit. I think I paid 129.00 for the sander at Harbour Freight and have used it for several years. If I wasn't so cheap, I would buy a dust collector for it so I didn't look like I just came out of a brown sand storm after doing a job because it will sure put a lot of material in the air in short order. Obviously if you want to get any sleep at night a good mask is required.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Funny you mentioned the jig. to play it safe i ordered one from midway yesterday. Its called miles gilbert i think. i wish i had a table mounted disk sander but maybe i can find a way to put my orbital sander in a vise to hold it and try it that way.
 

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Mounting your sander n a vise might work if you can keep it from moving. I have never tried it that way. I install a lot of these and the sander paid for itself the first week. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just wanted to let you all know i succeeded in mounting the recoil pad but it wasnt easy. used the hand held orbital sander yesterday and my hand is still numb. i did recieve the miles gilbert jig but it wasnt very helpful without a table mounted sanding disk/belt. this will be my next investment for sure. it can be done using my method but i sure wouldnt reccomend it. many thanks for all the help.
 

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Congrats. After your post I was wondering if it wouldn't be easier to mount a belt sander in the vertical position in a vise.....there would still be the problem with mounting your jig solidly tho.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Congrats. After your post I was wondering if it wouldn't be easier to mount a belt sander in the vertical position in a vise.....there would still be the problem with mounting your jig solidly tho.....
actually i tried that but the vice wouldnt hold the sander securely, kept jumping out. ive been looking on ebay today for a table mounted unit. Lol i wont do this the old fashioned way again.
 

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If you have a drill press, use a rotary pad that is intended to fit in a drill. Lay the drill press on it's side - preferably out of doors.
 

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This is what I use:



Don't know if Ryobi still offers it; not on their website. Think I got it at Sears. The sander drum rotates, and oscillates up/down. Works well with the buttpad jig.

This setup was something like $100+ about 6+ yrs ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is what I use:



Don't know if Ryobi still offers it; not on their website. Think I got it at Sears. The sander drum rotates, and oscillates up/down. Works well with the buttpad jig.

This setup was something like $100+ about 6+ yrs ago.
Now i really like that. wow that would sve me alot of grief.
 

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Your drum would work great with the B Square or other jigs that are hand held and the whole jig moves...mine is stationary and would have to be mounted to the table without moving as it is a type that the jig base is solidly mounted and the pad rotates on a hanger. A flat bench sander that also moves up to the vertical position would also work with the Miles Gilbert if you rigged up a way to extend the hanger farther out horizontally......on a lesser note, if you use 60 or 80 grit on a disc like I have, make your last and final pas to the scribed line slow and gently or there will be unsightly sanding marks in the hard rubber base.
 
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