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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a single-six that is leaving lead deposits on the cylinder. Appears that some lead is spraying out the b/c gap and being deflected by the topstrap back onto the cylinder, just behind the leading edge. The gun is plenty accurate so perhaps there is a burr on the forcing cone? Looking down the barrel when the gun is unloaded of course, it appears that the cylinder is pretty well lined up. I guess I could make a range rod to be sure....

Anyway, my thought was to make a brass lap and polish it a little. Anybody know the angle on the forcing cone of a single-six by chance?

Don't feel that this is worth shipping back to Ruger, would rather gain the knowledge myself fixing it. I have a lathe and can easily make a brass lap.

Or bite the bullet, so to speak, and get a forcing cone reamer from Brownell's?

I've thought of running some lapping bullets through it, too.

Suggestions welcome.
 

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[Looking down the barrel when the gun is unloaded of course, it appears that the cylinder is pretty well lined up.]

If all six chamber appear to line up, w/o any appreciable mis-alignment with the bore, the blowback can be cause by two things:
An excessive cylinder/barrel gap.
An too-abrupt forcing cone angle.

The cylinder could also simply be out of time

FWIW, if the blowback has just come on, or is only recent - I would eliminate the cone, as angles don't just change with shooting.

Is the blowback with all chambers, or only one, or more than one (but not all) ?

If it was mine, I would speak to a Ruger Service tech - who knows, if it's out of warranty, they might fix it for the bubble (sending you a pre-paid shipping box if you ask), or if it's newer & under warranty, a no-brainer freebie fix.

No FFL would be required for any owner to send/receive theor own fireamr to/from the factory ( or a gunsmith or customizer either, for that matter), under Federal Law - you just can't use USPS unless you're an FFL.

.
 

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I understand your enjoyment of doing it your self MikeG, but Range44's idea of letting Ruger have a go at it does have merit. I've seen the factory go "above and beyond" on some occasions. Just don't send it with after-market parts installed!

Cheezywan
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's nearly new, and there is what appears to be a smear of solder on the outside of each chamber. Odd to be sure. I'll try to get some pictures.

Hate to mail it off for fear they'll do something that makes it less accurate! It shoots very well now.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here's a picture, not a good one, but hopefully shows the issue. It is definitely lead fouling of some sort, scrapes off with a fingernail. On closer inspection the forcing cone appears rough.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's the update on my project.....

Had a little time and decided to try and figure out the forcing cone angle and make a lap. About 5 degrees on a side, or close (figure the lap will adapt to the exact angle, or vise-versa). Turned a lap out of a larger diameter cast bullet. Threaded the small end 8-32 which fits several cleaning rods I have.

A little LBT lapping compound on the lap and it's starting to clean the forcing cone up. Will have to shoot it and see what it does now.
 

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Nice craftmanship on the lap. So the threaded portion was strong enough to do the work? I would have worried it would have twisted off.

I hope it works for you.

Cheezywan
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I thought it would have too. But it held up. Didn't put too much pressure on it though.

Anyway, tried it a little. Seems to be helping some.... need to clean the bore and see what the forcing cone looks like and if there is any buildup.
 

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Yeah I thought it would have too. But it held up. Didn't put too much pressure on it though.

Anyway, tried it a little. Seems to be helping some.... need to clean the bore and see what the forcing cone looks like and if there is any buildup.
Good! Implies that you are being "very gentle". I would do the same.

I'm wondering of some way's to speed the process up for you though (allow you to be more agresive with "feel" for the work).

"Pull" a brush/patch with JB bore paste maybe? First thought. Must go your own way.

Cheezywan
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Polished it a little more. Think it just needs to be shot a bit and see how it does. May consider fire lapping it? If this "treatment" helps, then may also do it to my Bisley single-six.

Who knows I might have learned something! ;)
 

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You didn't say if the cylinder is scribed with the last three numbers of the serial number showing that the cylinder is indeed timed to that frame??
Could be most of the issue if it isn't?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll check but the gun came in the box looking new, or nearly so, with the extra .22 mag cylinder, etc. Has owner's manual as well.

The more the gun is examined, the more I lean toward the forcing cone just being too rough. It is not smooth at all (but getting that way as it's worked on).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Just for comparison I did the same lapping on my Bisley single-six. Only took a few minutes and it already looks better than the other single-six.

The Bisley is capable of fine accuracy... probably not a coincidence.
 

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Lewis lead remover has a caliber specific forcing cone attachment that looks alot like your home made lapp. I don't know the angle's involved.

Sure looks alot like the one you made! Made of alluminum though. Brass "screen" is between the alluminum tool and the forcing cone of the bore.

I sure don't know "why" a patch with a mild abrasive couldn't be substituted for the screen?

Make particular note here that "I do NOT know the angle of the Lewis tools.


Cheezywan
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Forgot I had one of those! Will have to dig it up and check........ thanks!
 

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My Single Action Armys do the same. The third generation just gets a soot mark at the very front, but my first generation gets a faint lead line about 3/8" back because that is where the fouling cutout channels the gasses. 11-degree forcing cone and everything is aligned and smooth. I think it's just par for the course on some guns.
 

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I went shooting today and got some photographs before I cleaned my sixgun.

The first photograph shows the lead deposit on the cylinder, probably a bit further back than you are getting.

The second photograph shows how the deposit gets on the cylinder. The fouling cutout in the topstrap essentially scoops the gasses carrying the lead from the cylinder gap around and back onto the top of the cylinder. My third generation SAA sometimes also gets some deposits, but nearer the front edge of the cylinder as there is no such fouling cutout in the topstrap of a third generation Colt.

The deposits are usually gone by the time I am done cleaning the gun with no specific work done on the deposits themselves. Otherwise, the deposits come off later after having had CLP sitting on them for a while.

My sixgun seems to be good to go with an 11-degree forcing cone in good shape and of the proper entry dimension, .008" cylinder gap, and I get the deposits even when there is no leading in the forcing cone itself. I believe the lead is just blown off the base of the bullet by the hot gasses as it passes through the barrel/cylinder gap. Not much you can do about that, and is not necessarily an indication of a misalignment or forcing cone problem.



 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mine builds up worse. Had to use some steel wool to scrub them off. I wouldn't have given it much thought, except the Bisley single-six won't leave the least bit of crud in that location. So there is some difference between the two guns.

Thanks for the pics.
 
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