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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone use the Forster Trimmer accessory with their drill press? I just bought one on evilBay and am curious as to what users think of it? I need to pick up a #1 collet and some caliber specific pilots, I see Midway has them in stock.
 

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Been using one for nearly ten years. Other than some very expensive setups it enables one to have high output of trimmed brass with very good length consistency. A fellow hunter and myself trimmed 1000 223 hulls he had bought along with deburring inside and outside case mouths in little over two hours with this type setup. When I make 30 or 357 Herrett shells from 30-30 cases there is considerable amount of brass that needs trimming from cases for correct case length. With this setup its becomes a ho-hum operation with very few if any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That was my main interest. I re-form 223 brass into 221 Fireball and there is a lot of neck length that needs to be trimmed. I use a mini tubing cutter now but that adds two extra steps to the process. I'm hoping this will do the trick.
 

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Forster Trimmer

I love mine, It's pretty easy to trim lots of brass at once. There is one thing that makes the set up a pain but it has to do with your drill press. Mine had the depth stop that uses a collar by the feed handle that you rotate and lock down with a bolt. It was really difficult to get it where I wanted without a little trial and error. Quite a few of those cheaper bench top drill presses have that feature. I've since got a better drill press that uses a threaded rod with the adjustable nuts. Much easier.
 

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Flashhole you'll love the trimmer for what your wanting too do. The Herrett case forming necessitates trimming nearly 3/8" off the case after forming. Takes maybe five seconds!! Longer to debur inside and outside than trim to length.

Tomphoolery -- I picked up an old Sears bench top drill press made late forties at an estate auction. Fifty dollars out the door and much better build that anything today for hundreds of dollars. Also had same problem as you on another drill press. I just replaced the metric piece of junk with some redi-rod Nation Fine threaded with couple of jamb nuts. Works better than I though it would and much better than the metric setup.
 

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this is good information as i hate case trimming. but the best part of all the comments was flashhole showing the quip by ann coulter. shes one of a kind and usually dead on.
 

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I've been using the Forster drill press set up for 10 years or so. For doing quantities of brass, it is excellent. Using a drill press, you will NOT bog it down. Once you're set up, it's quite fast. The only time I ever timed myself, I set up the trimmer/drill press, and trimmed 300 cases (222magnum) in 40 minutes.
I suppose a possible negative- and it's not much of one- is that it takes a few minutes to set up.
One thought I have- trimming 223 cases to 221 Fireball length, those cases are gonna be hot when you go to pick it out of the collet after trimming- watch your fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm trying to figure out a way to use the Lee Cutter and Case Length Gage with the Forster holder. My understanding is the collet is stepped to accomodate 3 different case sizes. My thnking was to put a plug in the bottom so the Lee stem would bottom out (like with their case holder) but I think the 223 case uses the bottom step.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have this thing set up and working. I'm not getting consistent trim length. I'm getting the case firmly secured and bottom seated in the collet. The press was not all that hard to adjust to a hard stop but something is not right. I think I will pursue getting a pilot insert similar to the Lee set up that can work with an anvil.

Does anyone who has a lathe want to work with me on this? I think I need two small parts turned that would make this think fool proof.
 

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Why are you using a Lee setup with the Forester base? Using the Lee setup is counter productive with the Forester setup. Your leaving something out and I'm wondering if parts are missing that are needed for the Forester setup. Your photo shows the main parts but I noticed you don't have any pilots.
 

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Place the rod into the collet and tighten. Chuck this setup into the drill press. Use a bolt through the drill press table to clamp the Forester base. You now have everything lined up. Remove the rod and insert your cutter/pilot assembly in the drill chuck. All that's left is too adjust the depth stop for correct case trim length.
 

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Read all my posts together for complete response. Turns out there was one word in the response that was keeping it from posting. Have never encountered anything like it. That one word is "insert".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have the appropriate collet and pilots. I didn't have good control of the trim length using the set up as designed. I thought a hard stop against an anvil would work better. That's what Lee does with their trimmer.
 

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Okay now that that's cleared up we can move on. Some of the drill presses don't hold very tight tolerances so you would have the problem described. I picked up an older one manufactured just after WWII that Sears sold under the Craftsman brand. This machine had been used enough that the chuck spindle had a considerable amount of side play. Had to disassemble, clean everything up, obtain new bearings and reassemble. That corrected the looseness in the spindle. Have noticed lately that the white grease I used lubricating everything is becoming quite stiff. Will have to use some solvent to penatrate and thin that grease too make operation easier.
 

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. . . Turns out there was one word in the response that was keeping it from posting. Have never encountered anything like it. That one word is "insert".
Check the technical issues forum for past posts on this. We've had a lot of trouble with it ever since the software upgrade. The cause is unknown. Usually the word "from" is the cause, but not always. It often affects one poster in the thread exclusively. Wish we knew what set it off?

The chuck and rod alignment method you describe has worked for me on a couple of truing projects on lathes and milling machines. You want to tighten bolts in small increments in rotation, like you would head bolts on an engine so one of them doesn't pull the others off. The method works well if the TIR of the chuck isn't too awful. And maybe there is enough give in the Forster's grip on the case that it doesn't need to be super tight? I just wouldn't want to pull necks off-axis. Maybe inserting the pilot in the case mouth, then tightening the collet would be best to prevent that?

It is unfortunate that a lot of conventional key chucks just don't hold a drill very straight anymore. Chucks are one area where the Chinese seem not to have caught onto the methodology of making them run true, except by accident. I've had them that spin drill rod out several hundredths. If you get an American made Jacobs brand chuck, they are pretty good. The German made Albrecht keyless chucks are guaranteed within half a thousandth and are excellent, but can cost more that the drill press. Jacobs has a keyless that is guaranteed within two or three thousandths. I have one of those and find my copy actually is closer to the Albrecht spec, but I may have got lucky.
 
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