Give us a break
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Yes, I use it all the time. Just use the NON-FLAMMABLE type. These are a bit more difficult to find at times.
You will get arguments about their water content "causing" corrosion but I myself have never experienced anything like that and have been using this material for many years. I also use it for die cleaning as it degreases and melts out any bullet lube from the seater die also.
Try to stay away from the carb cleaners, especially indoors as the fumes are very bad for you, especially the Berkabile stuff.
Also be careful around plastics and stock finishes.
Regards
You will get arguments about their water content "causing" corrosion but I myself have never experienced anything like that and have been using this material for many years. I also use it for die cleaning as it degreases and melts out any bullet lube from the seater die also.
Try to stay away from the carb cleaners, especially indoors as the fumes are very bad for you, especially the Berkabile stuff.
Also be careful around plastics and stock finishes.
Regards
Joined
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7,768 Posts
Hi, fuz:
Brake cleaner does work well, BUT it is absolutely lethal to some plastics. I think the Lexan plastics are the vunerable ones. Anyhow, give them one blast and they'll crumble before your eyes.
You may have heard about the lengthy cleaning routine for new bullet moulds. Give the mould a blast of brake cleaner, wait a minute, blow it off with the air hose, give it another blast, blow it off again and start casting.
Bye
Jack
Brake cleaner does work well, BUT it is absolutely lethal to some plastics. I think the Lexan plastics are the vunerable ones. Anyhow, give them one blast and they'll crumble before your eyes.
You may have heard about the lengthy cleaning routine for new bullet moulds. Give the mould a blast of brake cleaner, wait a minute, blow it off with the air hose, give it another blast, blow it off again and start casting.
Bye
Jack
fuz,
In addition to the previous replies, it may be appropriate to mention that cleaners like Jet spray Gumout, Spray Brake cleaners etc. are excellent de-greasers(as Jack mentioned for mould prep. work.)I use these cleaners on revolver's and after the "jet wash" i give them a quick soaking in kerosene and let air dry before final lubing. The kerosene leaves a light oily film behind. The spray cleaners really leave metal "bone dry" (rust-prone). The ony draw backs to kerosene are flammability and stinky odor.
As everyone else said, keep cleaners off of stock finishs'
Scott
In addition to the previous replies, it may be appropriate to mention that cleaners like Jet spray Gumout, Spray Brake cleaners etc. are excellent de-greasers(as Jack mentioned for mould prep. work.)I use these cleaners on revolver's and after the "jet wash" i give them a quick soaking in kerosene and let air dry before final lubing. The kerosene leaves a light oily film behind. The spray cleaners really leave metal "bone dry" (rust-prone). The ony draw backs to kerosene are flammability and stinky odor.
As everyone else said, keep cleaners off of stock finishs'
Scott
Joined
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3,366 Posts
About the stinky part.... every critter in the woods will smell those petroleum odors. Check this out:
www.No-Scent.com Scent-Free Gun Oil
I've used this product for several years.... on everything from guns, fishing reels, yes even leg-hold traps (coyotes don't even smell the stuff) and it's virtually unaffected by sub-zero temperatures and doesn't gum up or leave a varnish on those items long ago oiled!
God Bless,
Marshall
<!--EDIT|Marshall Stanton|Feb. 25 2002,08:48-->
www.No-Scent.com Scent-Free Gun Oil
I've used this product for several years.... on everything from guns, fishing reels, yes even leg-hold traps (coyotes don't even smell the stuff) and it's virtually unaffected by sub-zero temperatures and doesn't gum up or leave a varnish on those items long ago oiled!
God Bless,
Marshall
<!--EDIT|Marshall Stanton|Feb. 25 2002,08:48-->
I was out back this afternoon casting a pile of 350 grain and 445 grain slugs for my 45-70s The 445 grain mold was not doing well so I gave the mold a couple of shots with the carb cleaner and let the stuff evaporate and kept on casting.
You know how good Hoppes #9 smells? Even some of the others smell pretty good. Why can't they make an after shave that smells that way?
Even better yet, a bore cleaner, mold prep, aftershave!
Jim
Lord, help me to see my brothers as perfect and Holy as you created them. For all those that I can't please steady my aim.
You know how good Hoppes #9 smells? Even some of the others smell pretty good. Why can't they make an after shave that smells that way?
Even better yet, a bore cleaner, mold prep, aftershave!
Jim
Lord, help me to see my brothers as perfect and Holy as you created them. For all those that I can't please steady my aim.
Joined
·
7,768 Posts
H, Scot & Marshall:
Links that start with www instead of http don't work for me.
Testing
http://www.No-Scent.com Scent-Free Gun Oil
Test successful <!--emo&
--><img src="http://beartoothbullets.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''><!--endemo-->
Bye
Jack
<!--EDIT|Jack Monteith|Feb. 25 2002,09:56-->
Links that start with www instead of http don't work for me.
Testing
http://www.No-Scent.com Scent-Free Gun Oil
Test successful <!--emo&
--><img src="http://beartoothbullets.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=''><!--endemo-->Bye
Jack
<!--EDIT|Jack Monteith|Feb. 25 2002,09:56-->
Fuz
While you are thinking about using the spray brake cleaners there is something you should know.
Basically there are two types of brake cleaners. First is the original types which are principally poly-chlorinated bi-phenyls. Usually they are Perchlorethylene or Trichlorethane which have the advantage of being non-flammable. The second group which are touted as being more environmentaly friendly are extremely flammable and should never be used around an ignition source such as a stove, water heater, etc. Both types should be used with good ventilation, but for different reasons. The Perc. and Tri-chlor. are exactly the same class of solvents as found in the spray cleaners sold as gun cleaners, but cost less. If you have a connection who is in an auto shop they should be able to buy this by the case for around $1 a can!
Here's another idea. When you buy a used gun which maybe hasn't been cleaned since it left the factory in 1927. These can be a real challenge. This is what I use, one of the dunk type carberetor cleaners. Solder Seal and Gunk both work well and have a parts basket in the can.
Dis-assemble the gun and place all of the parts in the basket and submerge it in the can for a few minutes. Then pull the basket out, letting the solvent drain back into the can. The final step if to wash under a hot water spray, blow dry and oil. This is the same type of product that Cylinder and Slide is selling for about $45, but the carb. cleaner costs about $15-18! You will be absolutely amazed at how easy and thoroughly this will clean even the deep recesses and sharp corners inside of revolver frames. The expensive ultra-sonic cleaners won't do any better or quicker!
Whatever you do, never put plastic parts in the carb cleaner, you'll never see them again.
While you are thinking about using the spray brake cleaners there is something you should know.
Basically there are two types of brake cleaners. First is the original types which are principally poly-chlorinated bi-phenyls. Usually they are Perchlorethylene or Trichlorethane which have the advantage of being non-flammable. The second group which are touted as being more environmentaly friendly are extremely flammable and should never be used around an ignition source such as a stove, water heater, etc. Both types should be used with good ventilation, but for different reasons. The Perc. and Tri-chlor. are exactly the same class of solvents as found in the spray cleaners sold as gun cleaners, but cost less. If you have a connection who is in an auto shop they should be able to buy this by the case for around $1 a can!
Here's another idea. When you buy a used gun which maybe hasn't been cleaned since it left the factory in 1927. These can be a real challenge. This is what I use, one of the dunk type carberetor cleaners. Solder Seal and Gunk both work well and have a parts basket in the can.
Dis-assemble the gun and place all of the parts in the basket and submerge it in the can for a few minutes. Then pull the basket out, letting the solvent drain back into the can. The final step if to wash under a hot water spray, blow dry and oil. This is the same type of product that Cylinder and Slide is selling for about $45, but the carb. cleaner costs about $15-18! You will be absolutely amazed at how easy and thoroughly this will clean even the deep recesses and sharp corners inside of revolver frames. The expensive ultra-sonic cleaners won't do any better or quicker!
Whatever you do, never put plastic parts in the carb cleaner, you'll never see them again.
Well folks, thanks for all the useful information. All the money I can save on gun cleaners is money my wife can spend on,.... well, whatever it is she spends it on! The No-scent sounds like a good product, but maybe just during hunting season, you've got to agree with arkypete about that Hoppes #9.
thanks again,
fuz
thanks again,
fuz
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