glass bed asynthetic stock
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Lone wolf: I'm assuming the material you are speaking of is similar to that used in Mod. 70 stainless model stocks or Ram-line stocks. So: I was told that glass bedding compounds do not make a good adhesive bond to this material. That being the story I had to try it. I prepared the bedding surfaces by working them over with a small burr in a Dremel tool. If the materials don't make a good chemical/adhesive bond my theory was to give the stock enough rough surface to ensure a good mechanical lock. I've done about a dozen of them to the complete satisfaction of the owners. The compound seems to be hanging on like, well, glue and the all shoot very satisfactorily. All the stocks had too much forend flex to suit my taste. None of them are particularly light to begin with so I made them a bit heavier yet by filling good portions of the barrel channel with aluminum channel metal (U-shaped aluminum with about 1/8" thickness all around. This metal was also glassed in place using the mechanical lock method. Result: little forend flex and no forend slap against the barrels which were floated. I used commonly available kits, mainly Micro-Bond. None of the rifle owners complained or possibly even noticed that the stocks had gained weight but all remarked on improved performance. stocker.
TALKING ABOUT MICRO-BED OUT BROWNELLS.TWO TUBES OF MIX?I WAS GOING TO GIVE IT A TRY.SOMETHING ELSE CROSS MY MIND,WAS THINKING ABOUT JB WELD I HAVE USE THIS BEFORE ON FIBERGLASS AND LET ME TELL YOU ONCE IT HARDENS IT STAYS THERE FOR GOOD.ALSO I WAS THINGING ALSO ON A RELEASE AGENT THAT I READ SO MUCH ABOUT IS COOKING PAM.BROWNELLS RELEASE AGENT IS ม.00 A CAN.HAVE YOU EVER TRY THE PAM?.I TOOK THIS INLINE APART TODAY IT IS NOT GOING TO BE THIS EASY TO BED THE BARREL ACTION.THE ONLY PLACE TO BED THE RECEIVER IS THE FRONT LUG [email protected] THE SIDE RAILS OF THE ACTION.THE REAR OF THE STOCK HAS NOTHING TO GRAB ONTO,IT JUST SIT THERE ON A EMPTY CUT-OUT.GOING TO HAVE TO USE SOME CLAY TO HELP THE BEDDING MATERIAL TO STAY PUT.
Yep, two tubes of mix. I haven't tried Brownell's release agent. It's a major pain getting stuff sent here. Between our lousy dollar, freight charges and brokerage fees for me to order small quantitys is prohibitive. I'm sure I'd like it. My standby for the last 40 years has been Johnson's paste wax. I've never had a lockup using it. It is easy to clean up and every store has it. Use modelling clay or whatever is suitable to contain the glass mix in the areas you want it. I use galena which was used on railroads as a hotbox lubricant. It comes in sticks about an inch wide, 1/2" thick and 8 or 10 inches long. You can shape it with a pocket knife, force it against large openings to get an imprint and then carve to shape. I recently watched a TV programme where a couple of fellows were glassing a rifle. Nothing plugging magazine wells or trigger and bolt slots and glass running every which way. They gave themselves about 10 hours of cleanup work to get the holes opened and shaped again. Use masking tape on the exterior of the stock and give it a light coat of wax too. I usually dribble a bit here and there while getting it in and its a lot easier to peel the tape off than it is to clean it out of checkering etc. Luck and best of the season, BCstocker.
Joined
·
36,788 Posts
I have to second the paste wax, mine is MinWax but only because I couldn't find Johnson's. I've never even opened a tube of the release agent that comes with bedding compound.
The "Pam" would probably work OK also. My dad knew an old-time gunsmith who used WD-40! I like the paste wax because it won't hurt the stock. I always rub it into the checkering.
If you have an area where you want to have a close fit, but just a little clearance, a layer of electrical tape (covered with paste wax of course) leaves a nice even gap.
As far as the glass 'running,' one of the Brownell's products is more of a gel (Acra-Gel?). The name escapes me.... anyway it isn't nearly so bad.
For what it's worth I've even used standard 2-ton epoxy from Wal-Mart with fine results in a pinch. Just don't get the 5-minute stuff, sets up too quick.
I'm sure JB Weld would work also.
The "Pam" would probably work OK also. My dad knew an old-time gunsmith who used WD-40! I like the paste wax because it won't hurt the stock. I always rub it into the checkering.
If you have an area where you want to have a close fit, but just a little clearance, a layer of electrical tape (covered with paste wax of course) leaves a nice even gap.
As far as the glass 'running,' one of the Brownell's products is more of a gel (Acra-Gel?). The name escapes me.... anyway it isn't nearly so bad.
For what it's worth I've even used standard 2-ton epoxy from Wal-Mart with fine results in a pinch. Just don't get the 5-minute stuff, sets up too quick.
I'm sure JB Weld would work also.
THAT ELECTRICAL TAPE SOUNDS REALLY INTERESTING.INSTALL THAT ON THE ACTION BEFORE BEDDING A YOU ARE TROUBLE FREE.NO MATTER HOW MUCH RELEASE AGENT YOU APPLY,OR HOW CAREFULL YOU ARE WHEN DOING A BED JOB ,SOME HOW YOU ALLWAYS SCRATCH THE BLUEING JOB .
Lonewolf: scratching the bluing is a no-no. Make up some pieces of hardwood in the form of small cutting spatulas for removing excess glass from along the barrel channel, action etc. . Remove the excess while the glass is still workable with the wooden tools. I suppose a guy could use brass for the same job but bits of hard maple etc. are available from scrap, cost peanuts and you don't need to clean them up. They don't leave any trace metal behind on the bluing either.Throw 'em away and whittle a new set for each job. Takes 5 minutes. If you use steel (ie: sharp chisels) you will scratch the blueing and mark the metal. With a good coat of wax splatter on the metal flakes off with your finger nail. BCstocker
BC.I WAS LOOKING AT THIS STOCK,HAVE A IDEA HOW DOES THIS SOUND. IN THIS PLASTIC STOCK WHERE THE ACTION SIT ,THERE ARE A LOT OF DEEP CHANNELS.IT WOULD TAKE TO MUCH BEDDING TO FILL THESE CHANNELS,SO I WAS THINKING TO CUT SOME STYREFOAM AND STUFF INTO THE CHANNELS APPLY THE JB WELD ONECE HARDED IT WILL STAY THERE IN THE STOCK.ALSO IT WILL FILL THE AREAS A KEEP THE BEDDING WHERE I WANT ITON THE RECEIVER WALL
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
When I glass bedded my Rem. 700 ML I just used the dremmel tool to roughen up the stock before bedding. No problems. As to filling voids, the synthetic stock on the 700 has a hollow butt and was "filled" with a folded piece of pylysyrene. It still sounded like a drum when you tapped it against anything. I used a weatherproofing foam called "Great Stuff" and it certainly lived up to it's name. I left the recoil pad off and filled the hollow about 2/3s full with great stuff. Too much. the foam expanded way past the end of the stock but no matter. Wipe off the excess as it comes over the edge and after it quites expanding, let it set up. Afterwards I had to do a little removal of the foam to clear the insert for the recoil pad which took about two minutes with a razor knife. This stuff binds nicely to the stock so you will not have to worry about compression over time, not that it would matter in your case since it will be covered by glass.
Another trick to removing excess bedding, if you are using Acra-Glass. Get some white vinegar and that cleans up the excess bedding very well. Scrape off the excess with the wood spatulas as preiously mentioned and let it set up some. Remove any excess again but there will be some tearing of the semi-hard glass, then use a Q-Tip dipped in vinegar to smooth out the glass. The glass will still need to be pliable, sort of tacky to the touch but not sticking to your finger. Keep the Q-Tip wetted well or the glass will stick to the cotton. You can smooth the glass to a perfect finish with a little care. Any glass that has gone astray on the wood or metal can be cleaned up with vinegar also without damaging either. Just be sure to oil the metal well afterwards or the venigar can cause rust if the metal is not re-treated with some protectant.
Another trick to removing excess bedding, if you are using Acra-Glass. Get some white vinegar and that cleans up the excess bedding very well. Scrape off the excess with the wood spatulas as preiously mentioned and let it set up some. Remove any excess again but there will be some tearing of the semi-hard glass, then use a Q-Tip dipped in vinegar to smooth out the glass. The glass will still need to be pliable, sort of tacky to the touch but not sticking to your finger. Keep the Q-Tip wetted well or the glass will stick to the cotton. You can smooth the glass to a perfect finish with a little care. Any glass that has gone astray on the wood or metal can be cleaned up with vinegar also without damaging either. Just be sure to oil the metal well afterwards or the venigar can cause rust if the metal is not re-treated with some protectant.
Lonewolf: Deep channels where the action lies?? Probably to reduce weight, minimize materials.Or where the barrel lies?? What about ramrod? How would you protect the channel it lies in? Sterofoam may work well providing it doesn't break down when the bedding compound is put in. I'd test it first on a small piece of foam . Some chemical reactions drive some types of foam wild. You could also use pieces of light wood . Sorry to be a little vague on this, I haven't seen any of the stocks (or rifles) in question. Don't know if Rem. just reworked one of their standard synthetics or came up with a new design. If these channels are under the action I think I would prefer something more rigid then foam coated over. BCstocker
BC STOCKER: GLASS HE ACTION LAST NIGHT,CAME OUT GREAT FITS LIKE A GLOVE.THE SHOT REALLY GOOD OUT OF THE BOX,BUT NOW I LIKE TO SEE HOW IT SHOOTS.I USED HOT WAX TO FILL THE DEEP CHANNEL IN THE STOCK.BOY THAT JB WELD REALLY WORKS,@ THE PAM COOKING SPRAY REALLY WORKS,@ THAT JB WELD STICKS TO ANYTHING.I REALLY HAVE NOT GLASS A RIFLE SINCE THE EARLY 70'S. ALL OF MY RIFLES ARE FINISHED.I HAVE TWO OF CHOICE,A3-03 SPRINGFEILD [email protected] A MAUSER 7X57 CUSTOM.JUST GOT BACK INTO BLACKPOWDER,HAVE NOT BOUGHT A RIFLE SINCE,THE 80"S.SO I FIGURE I GIVE IT TRY ๳.00 OUT OF BASS PRO,CAN'T GET HURT FOR THAT PRICE .THANKS FOR EVERYTHING ,HAVE A GREAT HOLIDAY.YOU NO THIS C.V.A. 50 CAL ECLIPSE REALLY SHOOT GOOD
Lonewolf: There you go. There's nothing quite like taking the bull by the horns and doing the job. Hope she shoots good for you. Was just looking at your profile to see where you were from. We're a ways apart!!!. I'm just in the process of restocking a Lefever double for a friend with Claro. One of the easiest sideXsides I've had to work on. Completed the inletting last night now for the shaping finishing and checkering. Best of the season,BCstocker
Yep. Live In Williams Lake, British Columbia. Worked and lived here all my life (B.C.), on the coast, interior and north. This area is called Cariboo-Chilcotin. Great trout , steelhead and salmon fishing. Local deer are in good supply, moose cariboo on limited entry now for a few years. Too much habitat encroachment, lack of forest fires has affected their habitats. Retired now and able to spend my time hunting fishing golfing and working in my basement shop. Usually make a couple or three one month trips each year to favorite fishing and hunting haunts. Especially like Dragon Lake (rainbow trout to 14 lbs.), Bulkley River (steelhead), Peace river country (ducks, geese , moose, elk). That's my version of the good life. Don't travel out of province all that much. Used to go to Alberta a lot for birds but that was primarily for a change of scene and to get a long way from the work phone. Sometimes drop into Wash. to fish the rivers with a rather famous (in steelheading circles)steelheading buddy. Am contemplating looking for one of those jumbo whitetails in Saskatchewan one year but who knows. Well, I do prattle on. Regards, BCstocker.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!