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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just about ready to bed my first rifle and have one question. What is the generally accepted depth or thickness of the finished bed? How much stock do you generally remove to make room for the bedding material? I have not found a preferred measurement.

I don't want to hog out more than needed or leave the bedding too thin.

You all here have so far been very helpful in my quest to prepare for doing this first stock so once again I'm hoping for the same results with this question.
 

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Never remove wood unless metal is in the way. The very BEST glass bedding is thinner than onion skin paper.
The secret is making sure the glass adheres to the wood. (Don't use vaseline in inletting black.) Scrape any finish off the wood and don't touch it with your fingers to keep it oil free. The only commercial bedding compound that is not good at adhesion is Micro-Bed. It's best in thick sections. Acraglas, Marine Tex and many others are great in thin section.
Many custom stock makers seal the inletting with thinned epoxy. The stock is 'bedded' carefully by hand so the epoxy is a sealer instead of a filler. Any clear epoxy thinned with acetone can be a finish also, but brittle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
See, this is why I ask questions on many fronts. Asked the same question on another forum and have been told anywhere from 1/8 - 1/4" of stock removal depending on which stock and that of course, More is Better. Then I have watched videos by Vaughan Precision and the Social Regressive and they are also both Dremeling out wood.

Wells so far I have sanded out the stock in the area of the receiver bolts and have an even surface. Maybe too smooth and even for the epoxy but I do have wobble from side to side and rotational.

Anyways JBelk I'm going to do it your way as the worst that can happen is I have to grind it all out and try again. Correct! Also as for the pillars I see on Boyds sight they are only adding a pillar to the front action screw on Savage stocks. So again I am going w/o pillars in this.
 

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You have phenolic impregnated, laminated wood which is very nearly as stable as a solid billet of aerospace alumimum. Why somebody would want to trade that for epoxy is beyond me.
The only change I'd make is scrape that sanded surface to give it some grip.
To keep out voids and air bubbles, lay the epoxy down the middle of the channel. I like to 'rub in' the epoxy with a stick or gloved finger to force it into the wood but don't scrape the excess on the corner or it'll trap air. Don't be in a hurry. Let the epoxy settle some and lose an mixing bubbles before laying in the metal work. The guides makes sure the action is straight up and down with the bottom metal and perfectly aligned. Strap it down on the action only with surgical tubing or innertube or blood bank arm bands. Be patient! Any run overs will turn stiff plastic before becoming fully hard. At the plastic stage, it can be carved off with a sharpened tongue depressor or piece of plastic. Wait 24 hours to break it loose. 24 hours to think of that little place you forgot to wax......
 
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