Shooters Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need some recommendations for some good gun grease, for the slide and rails on semi auto handguns. 1911 in particular. I used to use a red grease that came in a syringe. It was good and easy to apply, but I don't even vaguely remember the brand of the name. I've looked around, but have found nothing even close to what this used to be. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,130 Posts
Since 1961, I use GunSlick. It is acombination of grease, wax, and graphite. comes in small tube, last a lpng time and is easy to squezze into rails. the wax keeps it from migrating. Only negative, it is black like graphite and can stain clothing.

It has been great for the slide on my S&W M39 which has aluminum frame and steel slide. everything is tight and smooth working.


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014713535
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Since 1961, I use GunSlick. It is acombination of grease, wax, and graphite. comes in small tube, last a lpng time and is easy to squezze into rails. the wax keeps it from migrating. Only negative, it is black like graphite and can stain clothing.

It has been great for the slide on my S&W M39 which has aluminum frame and steel slide. everything is tight and smooth working.


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014713535
Gunslick is what the guy at the LGS put me on. It does okay, but don't seem as easy to apply as what I used to use that came in the syringe. Thanks for the response. At least I know that I am using something that has worked for a long time. A Smith M439 was one I really regret parting with........................
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I was an airplane mechanic for most of my adult life. I have a tube of Lubriplate. I used it for assembling airplane engines as a pre lube. I use it on my guns. Just a dab strategically placed. The tube that is in my cleaning lot has been there for as long as I can remember.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
477 Posts
I've used standard wheel bearing type grease for years. Only in the cold winter conditions do I not use it which I then use transmission fluid. This was a recommendation by a 1911smith that builds competition pistols
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,076 Posts
I've used standard wheel bearing type grease for years. This was a recommendation by a 1911smith that builds competition pistols
Same here, a moly based grease that comes from The Home Depot. Got it from article, I think, by Skeeter Skelton, or one of the other writers that has since passed away.

I apply it to the working parts of my revolvers as well as my autos, the trigger contact parts in my AR's, (got that from a retired military armorer) and 870 triggers. It requires only a very thin film, holds up well, wipes out easily, and in about 40 years, I've not had any problems with function or reliability. Or rust.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,768 Posts
It depends

Over the years I have used various gun grease products and they all worked. My current preference is to use RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease). All the best...
Gil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,130 Posts
I agree Gil. they all work find. cold temp issues with thicker ones.

"Great, Best, outstanding" all just marketing terms.

The first thing I used was sewing machine oil and grease....'cause I could liberate it from mom's sewing machine drawer! does this mean me and my guns will go to H3LL?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all for responses. I guess I should have looked at products on line before asking. I since have and didn't realize that there were so many products. My LGS did not have much of a selection at all. There are so many products, that it seems to be very confusing as to which to use. Yall have told me a lot that I never knew that could be used as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
977 Posts
When I got my Garand In researched a bit about care and feeding. Lubriplate was mentioned the most as the Garand lubricant. I have used it on my other guns when I don't use oil...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,130 Posts
LubriPlate grease, all I use on my boat for steering. Use it on my submersible trailer wheel bearings too. This is my 4 boat, 34 years old..still no problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Lubriplate makes all kinds of grease even one that meets mil spec TW25b.
Don't use a graphite or moly lube unless you only wear black clothes. The stains are hard to get off.
With most rail greases (the good ones) you can apply the grease and then wipe the rails with a patch or cotton cloth so they look dry and there is enough grease to do its job. If you can see grease you've got too much on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,747 Posts
I used to use a red grease that came in a syringe. It was good and easy to apply...

Shooter's Choice is a red grease that comes in a very handy syringe, and is available at most of the large national sporting goods stores, and at least some of the small locals. Is that the stuff you used to have, perhaps? I've used it and been happy with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
820 Posts
I've used mostly Tetra gun lube in the past but as of late have been using Machine Gunners Lube. Seems to be doing fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Shooter's Choice is a red grease that comes in a very handy syringe, and is available at most of the large national sporting goods stores, and at least some of the small locals. Is that the stuff you used to have, perhaps? I've used it and been happy with it.
Yes, I think Shooters choice is what I useds to use. As I said, my LGS did not have a very wide selection at all. I was not aware that shooters choice was still made. I that along with dozens of other products during my internet searches the other day. I am enjoying the wealth of information that everyone is putting into this thread. I was also not aware that it was ok to use so many different things for this. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
A tube of synthetic wheel bearing grease will run 5-7 dollars and last a lifetime, go to a farm supply store and buy a large syringe and you are all set. Most of your gun lubes are repackaged commercial products.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,391 Posts
HAve come to the same conclusion/solution.

If you tend to clean your pistol after every range session (and we likely should), the super long lasting magic-greases aren't going to be super-long lasting (if the claims are more than hype).

Long term storage? Aren't we going to at least give it once over once we dig it out of it's hiding place?...and if not deep storage, why aren't we giving it at least a little TLC now and again?

If your pistol can only run right and not eat itself with only with one of the super-fantatic-wonder greases...does that signify an espically good design/construction?..or one you should be able to count as a medical deduction on your taxes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,130 Posts
Interesting, I bought my M39 in '67. It has an aluminum frame and a steel slide. Gun Rag dudes kept saying it would never last as it was not steel on steel. as said no significant wear except for some blue, with just a little Gunslick.

I mention this as we have not addressed what gun 'an auto' might be. those plastic frames tend to have just small SS guides for the rails. Might something else be better on the nylon frame guns, less metal to metal contact? could some of the 'wonder' lubes be harmful to plastic/fiberglass/nylon????
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,391 Posts
With the reports from back then, the 39 wasn't NOT one of the frames I was considering as long lasting....could crack at the slide lock notch,that wasn't a lube/wear issue.

Was late gettng one,even though I always did admire the slim rounded shape of the 39's grip.

Bought a used Nickle plated one ....paid the $$ as it came with a Peter Stahl made .22 conversion upper.

Wife calimed it as "mine", she shot it a lot it both ways (.22 or 9mm). Kept clean and lubed (and absolute requirment for the .22 conversion)..even then, had gone to "regular" lubes rather than super lubes....other than normal break in wear, the slide to rail fit was good.

(if wondering...YES...her gun,her responsibility to keep it clean and lubed.)

In the same time frame,AMT managed to design galling into their stainless-to-stainless slide/frames that didn't seem to be able to self limit wear. "Super lubes" did seem to help to slow that, but still consider it a design problem.

A Clark made .38 specail WC conversion Colt (made 1962, but bought used in 1976) was as tight as you'd expect for the breed....ran it for years with just "normal lubes" and it shot just as well in 2005 as it did for me in 1976 (did have to change the link-link pin,as his old versions were still locked breech).

Decided that I'd try a Glock 17 (Gen.I by today'scount)something like 1985. REALLY hated the idea of a "plastic wonder", but others who had them raved about how un-killable they were.

Turns out they were right....never a match gun, it's pretty darn hard to wear one out or gag one with just regular cleaning. A bit sloppy fit in the beginning....didn't get seriously worse over time with just regular lube (even though they did promote a "specail" lube).

just a few of many pistols over time....a few did actually did require lubes to limit wear.

Really not totally aginst "Cinderella guns" for playing around....but if one I rely on requires special handling/lubes/special perfect ammo....I don't rely on it being perfectly functioning.

OPINION:

Either folks have "drunk the koolaid"and are mentally converted to the idea that they really need super lubes....or there are a lot more "Cinderella guns"being relied on than there should be.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top