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I bought a 14" 35 Remington barrel for my older Contender frame. All the other 10" barrels work just fine, but the 35 Rem is hard to open. I talked to the nice lady at T/C and she said I would have to send all the barrels (8) and frame and it would cost $50 per barrel to remedy.:eek: I thought I saw a thread on this subject a while ago but couldn't find it. Can anyone help me out here? It would seem that the logical thing to do would be to modify the 35 Rem barrel?:confused:
 

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Please give us alittle more info.Does the barrel function unfired with empty chamber? what type of forend on the 14" barrel. T/C is supposed to have a lifetime warranty.As of late I have heard nothing but horror stories about T/C's customer service ,guns being sent in for repair been at factory for 18 weeks and still have not been looked at.I'm holding off buying a new T/C till they get their act together.
 

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My uncle has one with many diff. barrels incl. 35 in a 14in. Every one shoots awesome. That frame has opened hard since day one. Need a good hard, quick snap sometimes using two hands. Opens easier after firing. Shoots as good as any rifle I've had so why mess with it. Once we relized the correct way to open it then it was no issue. I would contact Mike Bellm and see what he can do before I let TC touch it.
 

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T/C Contenders below serial number 120000 or there abouts had front pivoting trigger guards/assemblies. There were several issues with later barrels in the locking lug that could cause them to completely lock up, flop open upon firing or in your case be hard too open. Don't know what that lady was smoking or trying to sell you but it doesn't sound koshier to me.

When I contacted T/C nearly twenty years ago about same issue was informed of a modification that would change the pivot point back towards the trigger. They called this there easy open model I believe. One downside too this modification is the trigger pull is affected. Since mine had a very good and desirable trigger pull I forgot about the modification. Once you understand what needs done too open the action its not a big deal, just takes a little more time.

Polishing the locking lugs will help as does polishing the angled ramps on the two prongs of the trigger guard. These slide against the pin protruding out the side of the locking lugs. Keeping everything well lubed will help. Despite whatever you do it will be hard too open because the mechanical advantage is small with the front pivot.

Newer T/C Contenders don't have the problem because the pivot point was moved back around the trigger pivot area in a design change. The locking lug was changed also from a single to split lug.

If you don't want to make the modification then after shooting just rap the trigger guard against your boot heel. What happens is upon firing the frame flexs a tinny bit allowing the locking lugs to enter there recess a little farther. When you try opening because of the low mechanical advantage its hard to retract the lugs from there recess. Rapping the trigger guard on your heel gives a small impact assisting in opening the locking lugs.

I personally would use caution even with Mike Bellm. Seems too me he's pushing things whether or not there really needed. That's my take after reading his web site. Your milage may vary after reading the site.

If you have the unfortunate experience of barrel completely locking up then remove the forend. Drive the trigger guard pivot pin out of the frame. Remove the guard assembly setting it aside. Reach into the opening with something flat prying against the pin that goes through the locking lugs. Once you retract the lugs far enough the action will open. If this happens then likely culprit is the locking lugs. I just switch them from another barrel. Usually use the lighter kicking/recoiling barrels on the lower serial number frames. Hard kicking/recoiling barrels use on later serial number frames or better yet the G2 frame. Since I have several frames now it's not been a problem.
 

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Having started with a lower serial # gun, I can tell you that it's well-worth the $$ to have T/C move the pivot pin and add the split locking lug to each barrel. The gun becomes much more "user friendly" after this modification.
 

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if you have seven 10" barrels that function OK, I'll bet the 35 Rem barrel has the one piece locking lug. not a big deal to change it out for a two piecer. you can probably even do it yourself.
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hey man,check the small screw on the side and see if it's tight..mine was getting hard to break opem too ,and when i tightened the screw it was back to norm..after a few shots seem all the screws back out some ..keep a check on them..would'nt hurt to but the tool for tightening the barrels and forearm,,they made it to pack for some reason.. good luck with it
 

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I see this is an old subject but I have a 4------ contender that is hard to open. Can the factory correct this problem?
 

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I see this is an old subject but I have a 4------ contender that is hard to open. Can the factory correct this problem?
The modification can be done to make opening the action easier. Since T/C was acquired by another company, I'm not sure if they are still doing that work, though. You'll have to contact them and find out.
 

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I have been burned badly by TC within the past year. I went through five (5) 35 Whelen barrels sent back. I never did get a Whelen barrel to work. The chambers were cut out of spec. The chambers were so bad that the heads were falling off once fired factory load brass in the tumbler. I took the last to a well respected rifle smith to verify the problem.

A couple of weeks ago I ordered a 35 Whelen barrel from MGM. The Encore frame appears to be OK so maybe I can salvage something to shoot out of this.
 
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