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Discussion Starter #1
I got one, really impressed with the rifle except for one thing. The LOP is 14 1/2" ! ! ! !

I would like it to be 12" LOP.

I pulled the recoil pad off and found a plastic partition under that and the inside of the stock is filled with a rather dense foam. The stock is feels, great, palm swells are well designed for both lefty and right hand shooter.

The stock is just way too long.

This would be great if I was like 6'3" or taller but I am not and have a short neck to boot.

Hoping somebody has figured out a way to shorten it.
 

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Tape it to prevent chipping of the edge, bandsaw it as straight as you can, flatten on a disk sander, hog out enough filler to glue in a wood block for the buttpad/plate to screw to.
I'll admit to having never fitted anything to a plastic stock so salt my instructions accordingly. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was thinking about going in with a ball grinding tip and grooving inside of stock to give it something to grip to. and pushing in a snug plug to force the adhesive into the grooves and also securing it with a side mount sling swivel through the stock and into the plug inside. Then putting on a steel buttplate like I did the 7600 and the Rem 700 I have already done. A 14.5 LOP would be right for a guy that was 6'4" but I need about a 12" for my build and short neck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Think I have figured out how to do it. Found some small circular saw blades for a Dremel tool and ordered them. I will make a spacer so blade will only groove inside of stock about 1/16" inside for 4 ot 6 passes. Then take my soldering gun with the heat wafer and cut some X cuts on the inside about the same depth.

Then I will fill the cavity with Marinetex forcing into all the grooves. Smooth it on top and make a small indent into it where the screws go when it starts to set up to use as drill guides after it gets hard. Then fabricate a steel buttplate like I did for my others ground to fit.closely around the edge.
 

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That will work but add a lot of weight. You could extend the attachment point forward with a wad of epoxy/Bondo in the grip area and a dowel or all thread extending back to the butt that attaches the butt spacer block unit.....lots of ways to skin that cat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had thought about Bondo but another possibility hit me. I forgot but I have a precision hand grinder that I use with round dental burrs so I went out this morning after writing above, removed the stock (tricky move as there are washers under the action front and rear) and cut it to length on table saw.

Then I took the hand grinder with dental burr and went around inside of stock after removing about 3/4" of form. To my surprise I found two small ribs on both side of the stock about 3/4" apart so I went down them a bit and ran the burr through them. Found more more smaller ribs and did the same with them.

I then mixed up Marinetex and with the stock clamped in vise filled the carivity and the Marinetex got hot and started setting just as I finished. I pre located stock screw holes with pin with release agent on them. and place a 5 lb dumbbell on recoil pad to keep it in place.

I looked at the spacer mentioned originally and apparently it was he welded in place.

I will let it sit up until tomorrow and have a looksee.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had thought about Bondo but another possibility hit me. I forgot but I have a precision hand grinder that I use with round dental burrs so I went out this morning after writing above, removed the stock (tricky move as there are washers under the action front and rear) and cut it to length on table saw.

Then I took the hand grinder with dental burr and went around inside of stock after removing about 3/4" of form. To my surprise I found two small ribs on both side of the stock about 3/4" apart so I went down them a bit and ran the burr through them. Found more more smaller ribs and did the same with them.

I then mixed up Marinetex and with the stock clamped in vise filled the carivity and the Marinetex got hot and started setting just as I finished. I pre located stock screw holes with pin with release agent on them. and place a 5 lb dumbbell on recoil pad to keep it in place.

I looked at the spacer mentioned originally and apparently it was he welded in place.

I will let it sit up until tomorrow and have a looksee.
Below are pics of how I cut the stock, what it looks like and the foam removal about 3/4" down and the troughs I cut around the inner surface for the Marinetex to adhere to. There were sets of ridges in the middle on both sides so I inserted the dental burr in and cut through them so he Marinetex would flow into them and lock to them.

Also notice there are light ridges at the bottom and top of the stock cavity.

I mixed up the Marinetex and it has set up within 30 minutes being a warm day in the South. With the troughs etc I have no doubt that filler is there to stay.

Note: I removed action from stock. to release front of action requires a 10MM socket. CAUTION: There were two thin washers under the nut on the front and five (5) on the back. There is a aluminum block on the front with "37" written in the groove. Don't know what his means. In effect the stock is pillar bedded from the factory and the bottom metal is secured by two short screws that go into the pillars.









 

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Discussion Starter #8


Above is filled with Marinetex, best all around bedding material I have ever found.



This is tracing of butt-plate outline in 11 Gauge plate. After this it was cut out and ground down with side bench grinder;, side grinder and sanding disc and edges rounded over with 1" belt sander.
 
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