Those are only blanks for carving, and frighteningly expensive. You can carve your own gunstock from scratch - I've done it for other rifles, including a box-magazine Mannlicher - but I think the Mannlicher-Schoenauer is one of the more difficult cases. The inletting is complex, and to look right it requires thin sides over that wide magazine.
I bought a semifinished stock, made to my order, from Richards Microfit Stocks in the US, and in 2005 the standard length version (minus the longer butt I wanted) was $379 in exhibition grade English walnut. That seems remarkably cheap, and the quality of the work was fine, with little internal work to be done, although the exterior would require quite a bit of slendering down for a rifle like this. The barrel channel does require to be shaped to suit.
The trouble was, the wood, although good-looking and very sound, wasn't anything like as good as exhibition grade ought to be, and they ended up giving me a partial refund. Their communications, even before this, were less than well-organised. They can certainly do you a good stock, if you keep a tight leash on just what quality of wood means.
It is true that there are quite severe restrictions on export of gun parts from the US. Some firms, like Brownells, are set up to get you the export licence, which would normally require a government letter (the original) specifying that the item is uncontrolled in your country, or that you have the necessary authorisation. This is what controls getting gun parts out of the US.
The good news, though, is that I don't believe anything not involved in actually firing the gun is a gun part, in the eyes of the US government. I think there is a good chance that a gunstock can still be freely exported. At your end, it is anybody's guess.
I think the 1910 is a 9x57? A friend has a 9x56, and like many Mannlichers made for heavier-recoiling rounds than the original 6.5x54, has one side of the stock cracked beside the magazine. The recoil lug is rather small. Personally I believe no rifle is the worse for epoxy bedding, if you get the brown epoxy stain from Brownells and experiment with making it match the wood. If I was doing this job again, I would hollow out the sides enough to put a thin layer of fibreglass cloth in the mix inside that recess, and epoxy in a piece of steel strip for the recoil lug to contact.
