Shooters Forum banner

21 - 36 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
I neck size necks dipped in mica powder. Every other st swithen’s day I clean dies with hoppes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
I agree with Mr. MikeG, a slight finger wipe of Imperial lube for every 4 or 5 cases. As Mr. Belk said, there really isn't any place for lube to build up, and consequently, the only time I clean a die is when I first get it. If one gets shoulder dents, it's not because the die is dirty, it's because you have too much lube. If pure neck sizing with a neck die, I do as Mr. MisterEd does and use Motor Mica on the necks, but never have to clean the dies. Now a seating die using cast lubed bullets is a different matter. I find I need to clean my pistol seating dies every once in awhile--I don't personally load cast in rifle, so not an issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I hate to say it; a couple of years ago I cleaned off my workbench (with air) and forgot that my 40YO RCBS .44 dies were on the bench. A couple of weeks later I was sizing some brass and noticed some terrible, TERRIBLE, horrible deep scratches on the brass. WTF? You could have hit me in the forehead with a 2x4 and I wouldn’t have flinched! I knew EXACTLY what had happened and I knew WHO the “A$$ Hat” was! A ruined die and money spent.
I’m much more careful now and clean/inspect before each loading session.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
I use the Lee sizing lube. I have learned to let it dry completely before I do any sizing. When it is dry, it does not build up in the sizing die.
 

·
Elk Whisperer (Super Moderator)
Joined
·
10,453 Posts
I rarely have to clean my sizing and seating dies (it is a good idea to periodically take them apart and do so) but when I do I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner (Braklean) as the force of the spray and the handy tube gets to all the gunk in those hard to reach and see places. A quick blast of compressed air (not shimmy canned air) gets the rest and dries the parts quickly.

Carb cleaner works too, but it stinks more.

RJ
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gil Martin

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
First time I've reloaded Rifle cases in awhile, grabbed my One Shot and darn near stuck a case in the die. Per Hornady's instructions I cleaned the Die with Acetone, then sprayed One Shot again letting it dry, sprayed inside of die. Still no go. Then used RCBS Case Slick and no problem at all. Does the stuff go bad?
 

·
The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
Joined
·
36,084 Posts
Yes.

Throw it away and get a can of Imperial. Or practically anything else.

"One-Stuck" is known to settle, and stick cases. Plenty of testimony on this forum about that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
I just sized a few hundred .308 that I collected from the range. I don't pick up really dirty or tarnished stuff. The stewards do a good job of sweeping up and they must empty their buckets every week or so. I inspect closely and cull before sizing.

I'll clean my sizing die before putting away. If I were doing just my own brass, maybe every 500 rounds or so. ALWAYS clean new dies.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I was using Lee Lube and I ran out so I started using some petroleum jelly haven't had a problem yet. I will take a long Q tip with some acetone and swab my sizing die periodically clean out any crud that might build up so far very little. I also have a bit of a humidity problem being in Florida, so the petroleum jelly also acts as a rust inhibitor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
827 Posts
I clean my dies with a shot gun mop and Hoppes #9.

As for sizeing lube I am cheap and went with the one shot formula.

4 oz pure liquid lanolin
$8.50
16 oz 91% alcohol
$1.09

for $9.59 i just made 20 oz. of really good case lube that i can spray on cases.
this is going to lube an awful lot of brass!

Place the brass in a freezer bag shot a few sprits of lub in and roll around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,484 Posts
I use a good bit of lube on the inside of the necks on some cartridges, lube, carbon and brass particles{from trimming} build up on the decapping rod on the backside of the expander ball. Whenever I'm starting a new batch of cases I clean the rod and relube the ball then check to make certain the rod hasn't been bent or the ball hasn't loosened before putting it back in the die.
btw I've used "One shot" for as long as it's been out, if I start feeling some resistance in the sizing I supplement the lube with a small amount of Stos,
I realize One shot is a poor lubricant but it goes on quickly and comes off easily in the tumbler without ruining the media.
In 35 years or so of using it I've only stuck a couple of cases bad enough to require pulling them. I use it on all kinds of stuff that doesn't require a really good lubricant but I don't want oil on for instance it works great on the wood sliding windows in my house and much easier than using beeswax.
 

·
The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
Joined
·
36,084 Posts
"I've only stuck a couple of cases....."

That's a pretty good success story, for One-Stuck :D :D :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
I have used Lee Resizing lube for the last 25 years. I can't comment on any other lube since Lee is all I have used. I run short batches of 40 or so cases on a single stage press and clean my dies before each session using a clean lint free rag. No problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,484 Posts
"I've only stuck a couple of cases....."

That's a pretty good success story, for One-Stuck :D :D :D
It is considering how many cases I've sized and how poor a lubricant One shot is, fyi if you set it down for more than a couple of seconds it needs to be shaken up again. I don't know this but I believe the propellent and the wax separate very quickly.
 
21 - 36 of 36 Posts
Top