I picked up a Lyman 2 Die set for .416 Rigby, from Mid South, for $26+change. Now I need to figure out the best way to trim em back so I can at least neck size and seat bullets for my smaller Boer 8 wildcat, necked back up to .416". I will have the same length necks as the old Rigby's, and about the same body taper. What I don't have, is their generous shoulders. My adaption is the same length of the parent .416 Ruger, but it is a different case, now. I do have minimum head spacing, with the small shoulders, though,(much shorter than the Rugers). By trimming back the Lyman Die set, I believe I can do enough with these dies to warrant the trouble. I would like to keep the factory heat treat in the shoulder and neck area of both these dies. So, do you have any suggestions? The 5/8ths difference will mean chopping both dies back up into their threaded shanks. My case uses a 16deg. shoulder, while the old Rigby uses a 45deg. shoulder angle. I don't think it's practical to try and change this shoulder angle, so I'll be just neck resizing, seating, and crimping my wildcat cases, after I modify these Lyman dies. This drill is to make up enough cases to send back to Hornady for a custom New Dimension F.L. sizer die. I can use the generic .416 New Dimension Seater die, as is. This wildcat is on the edge, with this taper. The .375 version would be saner as it still has generous shoulders to head space on. But this .416 has exactly the same H2O capacity as does the .416 Taylor, head spaces on it's minuscule shoulders,and has the original .416 Rigby length necks. So, all those bullet cannelures in .416 will crimp, working through my mil. mauser magazines, and not going past the neck shoulder junction in my cases. I have heard of a putty that absorbs heat, when you torch the die bases, but I don't know how to procure any. Also, is there any way to use molten lead alloy, instead of a torch, before trimming them back in a lathe? thanx in advance, Carpooler.