Get the RIA and you can have work done as you can afford it. Unless the shop you use has package deals, there is nothing to make you do it all at once.
I like the late George Nonte's notion of segregating gunsmithing into practical and mechanical improvements. The practical is what helps the shooter operate the gun better. Mechanical work is what makes the gun more reliable or precise. The practical work includes sights, trigger work, beavertail safeties, ambidextrous thumb safeties, checkering, custom grip panels, etc. The mechanical stuff would be a reliability package with internal surface polishing, timing corrections, extractor tension adjustment, etcetera, or an accuracy job with slide and barrel and bushing fitting.
I recommend you break the gun in before you do anything to it. Get about 200 rounds of hardball through it before you start to judge its feed and operating reliability. Get another 300 rounds through it before you decide if you can rely on it for self-defense. If it is not reliable, then a mechanical reliability package should be the first work. If it's already reliable, go for the practical changes first. That's because, if you aren't operating the gun at your best, then you won't know if it really needs accuracy work or not.
I learned to build 1911's into match guns a lot of years ago. In all that time I never found any drop-in trigger jobs or grip safeties or barrels that worked as well as hand fitting work does. The drop-ins can be better than issue parts, and I don't mean to run them down. My point is just to caution you that they become an added expense if you find them unsatisfactory and have to go to the gunsmith to get them altered or replaced with hand fit parts later. That can happen.
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