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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Discussion Starter #1
One thing I thought would *never* happen the rest of my life was a 'need' for new guns.... till my wife got interested in shooting. Yeah.... sometimes there's things I *want*.... but I'm hard pressed to find something I need.

So.... I have taken to using a .22 rimfire when hunting from fixed blinds, for the occasional varmit that shows up. They are fun and don't disturb the rest of the woods too bad whether you hit or not. And lots cheaper! It's no trouble to have a second rifle in the blind.

After my wife saw me pick off a crow at about 100 yards, she decided she wanted to start doing that too! Trouble is, none, and I mean none, of the .22s I have are short enough. And yeah.... I like .22s and have, uh, "several." :rolleyes: Not gonna cut the stock on my CZ452, either.....

When we got back home I remembered that a few years ago I got a blued 10/22 barrel and beat up walnut stock at a gun show for something like $20. Send the barrel to Marshall for one of his projects, so there sits the stock all lonely.

If I cut the stock off right ahead of the inletting for the buttplate, and then put a .6" recoil pad on it, it will end up with the exact same length of pull as her 6mm hunting rifle. Some challenge may come from the top of the stock being flat like a 99 Savage, but I can just glue the pad on if the screw holes don't work out.

I have a 2-7x Rimfire Special scope in the safe, so that's covered. My 10/22 is a stainless / birch model but the color mismatches won't bother me in the least.

Putting all that together.... if it doesn't shoot well to 100 yards.... what are some good standard-weight (sporter) aftermarket barrels? A bull barrel is out of the question as it would weigh too much and be too nose-heavy. Trigger is OK about 3-4 pounds as I worked on it years ago.

Suggestions? Accurizing tips? I don't mind adding extra bedding, screws, and whatnot if it will help (I have a mill and a lathe). I faced off the bolt years ago to get the headspace down to a minimun, that may help.

One thing occurs to me is to get rid of the barrel band, but then I don't know how to best mate the action and stock. Getting rid of the barrel band leaves one screw holding the entire thing together.

I would experiment on the factory barrel first, before cutting on a new one. It's 18" long and stainless.

Thoughts?
 

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Oooooooooooo, we're gonna have fun with this one. I love 10/22's and have built several.

First thing to realize is that your action is likely NOT Stainless Steel. None were, from Ruger. They are aluminum ... Aircraft grade to be sure, but still aluminum. Some 600 or 800 Wet paper will make 'em shine! Barrels are a different matter. Those they make in SS as well as Carbon Steel AS WELL AS Carbon Fiber. I understand some of the larger makers of barrels will sell you a "sporter weight" barrel. Wasn't the case when I was doing one of mine. We'll get back to that.

The first thing to do you've already done ... the trigger work. And as a convenience I would also add a quick release magazine release and a bolt release. Very easy to do. It's just swapping parts. Once you get all of the playing around done with the action then mount the scope (it sounds perfect) and try it at 50 yards. I've been very fortunate in that the barrels I used (factory barrels) were all acceptably accurate ... 1/2" groups at 50 yards. In this case, shorter (read "stiffer") is better. Or, you can try one of the new Carbon Fiber barrels in .920" diameter. VERY VERY light. Push comes to shove and you want a longer sporter weight barrel, try and find one from a Ruger M77 in .22LR. They have tighter chamber dimensions. Likely be able to find one at a gun show. A lot of the guys switched their M77's over to .17 HRM2's. But you MUST have a shim kit to make 'em fit right. I bought one from one of the sponsors on RimfireCentral.com . He goes by the name Artifex. Incredibly well machined and fit perfectly. Solved the problem for me on my .22 Magnum 10/22.

OK, on to the stock. Yeah, you can get rid of the barrel band. All it does is hold the sling swivel as well as lending itself to make the rifle look like a CARBINE. And yes, the barreled action is held into the stock with only the one screw. What I did here is glass bed the rear tang so it sits solidly in its spot in the stock. I also glassed in the recoil lug area. I also used a Forstner Bit to counter bore where the bolt comes thru the stock and into the receiver. I took a fender washer out of my little parts container and counterbored the stock to 1/2 the thickness of the washer. That way, the action is resting on steel. Glass it in too at the same time you glass the parts of the stock action area. Once that was all hardened I glassed in the barrel channel ... full length. The thing here is to use lots of Release Agent (I understand PAM works really well too) but add perhaps two thicknesses of masking tape to the bottom of the barrel, about 2" forward of the action. This way, the action is all glass bedded and 2" of the barrel is also glassed in, for rigidity. The rest of the barrel will be "free floated". I use it full length just to make the forearm extra rigid. LOL, movement here is BAD! Now, you're gonna have a lot of people tell you to pillar bed the action, have the 2nd bolt hole drilled into your action and stock. I suppose that's all well and good. I've just never seen the benefit, that's all. I've done a half dozen of these 10/22's and every single one of them is supurbly accurate for a hunting rifle. And, actually, my rifles have turned out much more accurate than a hunting rifle has any right to be. With my personal 10/22 LR I have shot MANY sub .250," groups. LOL, best to date was .037", 5 shots, 50 yards. I believe in results. Oh, yes, ammo. I have tuned all my rifles to shoot the Velocitor ammunition. Most accurate I've found in all 6 of my builds. But, then again, I made them to be hunted with. Target accuracy is just a bonus.

All of this sounds like a lot of toil and trouble. What can I say ... it's Halloween. It's much easier in real life than it sounds. The important thing here, Mike, is to have fun with it. Make the outside of the stock however best fits your significant other. You're a good man to make one for your wife and make it fit her. You are to be envied. :D
 

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The Troll Whisperer (Moderator)
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Mike - on the screw holes in the buttstock - if the holes don't quite line up after cutting a chunk off, put some Elmer's Wood Glue into the remaining holes and drive in appropiate sized dowel rods. Cut off with sharp knife and let sit for a day. Then, you can re-drill the holes as necessary.

Wouldn't worry about the one screw holding the .22 LR action to the stock. Lots of the older .22 LR bolt guns (Marlin, Stevens, Springfields, etc) only had one screw. My Ruger factory bull barrel/laminated stock 10/22 doesn't have a barrel band, either.
 

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The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)
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Discussion Starter #4
Right, the action is aluminum and barrel is stainless. Should have made the distinction. Anyway..... good info on the action bedding, and also the 77/22 barrels. I will try the stock bedding as you describe and see how it goes.
 
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