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I have had great luck with the AI guns in the 250-3000, 257 robt., and 7x57, these cartridges are claimed by Ackley to be the best of his guns calibers and that they gain 300 FPS, that's a lot and they will do just that..

I also like the 8mm-06 AI simply because the std. 8mm-06 is a wildcat to start with, so might as well get the benefit of more of the same...Applies to the 338-06 , 35 Whelen etc. as well as any wildcat on the 30-06 case is what we are talking here. Brass will last longer and you will pick up some decent to great velocity with any of them. Its a personal choice for each of us to make, when all is said and done.
 

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Does anybody know of a good quality reputable gunsmith in the Texarkana Texas / Arkansas area that can perform the task of converting a Savage Springfield Mod 840 from .30-30 Win to .30-30AI.

Thank you,
I don't know of a gunsmith in your area.
Unless you are simply wanting to play with the Improved cartridge you might want to read a little on the Savage 340 type rifles. These rifles were rather well thought of by knowledgeable hunters.
Ken Waters wrote in his March 1977 Pet Loads the Model 340 gave about the same indication of impending high pressure as did the leveraction rifles.
In the September 1965 issue of Guns & Ammo Norman Phillips wrote Who Says The .30-30 is Obsolete? This article speaks highly of the accuracy of the open sight Model 340. His test rifle was a rental.
Frank Marshal of cast bullet fame wrote several articles extolling the virtues of the .30-30 with heavy bullets. Frank once wrote if he were forced into ONE rifle it would be the Model 840. A disk of his Speaking Frankly articles is available from the cast bullet association.

Not trying to discourage you , simply suggesting you thouroughly explore your specific .30-30 before reaming to the Improved case.
 

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I was looking through the list of calibers that are A.I. and the 257, 280, and 30-06 interest me. I am willing to look at others. Not sure im ready for full-on "wildcat" having to possibly neck down or neck up cases and items like that are not my cup of tea right now. I do like the idea of fire forming brass with mild loads in the AI.
Nice thing about the Ackley chambers is that fire forming isn't really necessary.
Just load and shoot, or buy factory ammo and shoot, and end up with Ackley brass.
 

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I've got a new 280 Ackley that I just got back. Awfully pretty rifle. I'll posts pics if anyone wants to see it
 

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William, it was a stock Remington, but I liked it too so I had them bed it, true the bolt, and it is very accurate with factory Nosler 150 accubond.
Thank you
 

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Thank you William Iorg, I've gotten a lot of "what is AI and why do you want" lately. It is an accurate little rifle now, but I'd really like to do this to, one save brass, and two utilize the pointed spritzer / spire point bullets.
 

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I wont argue that point.
I like the .30-30AI. Just wanted to make sure you had a good starting point with your rifle.
You cannot estimate the Improvement if you didnt form a base line.
 

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I rechambered my Ruger #1 B to 30-06 A.I. The best loads I had were 165 - 180 grain with IMR 4350, with the 180 gr. having the edge. I wanted to rechamber my NEF 30/30 to the A.I. but never got around to it. I don't shoot much now, except for a few handguns, but it sure was fun trying out loads @ 200 yards.
 

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My MRC X2 280AI is one of my favorite mountain rifles for mule deer and elk. Its got a 26" barrel, and I won't post load data here, but I am getting over 3100 FPS with a 140 gr Accubonds. I cannot say enough good things about the 280 AI. It really is the cats meow of the AI cartridges. I am in 7 Rem Mag territory, using less powder.
 

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Going back to the original post about liking odd ball calibers surely caught my attention as odd ball calibers is about all I shoot anymore. When I show up at deer camp, everybody asks, "what the heck is that you have?". There's something about a .303 Savage or a 8mm Lebel that intrigues me to no end. Last deer season saw me with an 86 Winchester in .38-56 WCF. I guess there are quite a few of us "odd ballers" still around.
 

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I have a 6 MM AI 700 Action Kreiger Fluted Heavy Varmint Barrel 26 Inches long. 1/10 Twist, B&C Stock Smithed by Mickey Coleman in Al. Extremely accurate with N160 and Hornady 87 Grain Its a truly a Red Mist Rifle,
I would consider parting with it. Very low round count.
 

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I was finally able to take .25 Ack. Imp. Krag Borchardt out to range on the 3rd. I was only going to fire-form brass..but upon close inspection & speaking with original owner, I think rifle had only been test fired back in 1965! So I decided to do a complete barrel break-in using Sinclair's method for moly coated bullets. Interstingly..first shot only left copper on very edge of land. When I started firing 2 shots/clean..copper wash on top of lands but grooves remained copper free. At 3 shot/clean..Sinclair recommended shooting a 3 shot group..I thought it a waste of time as these fire-form loads were designed for a .257 Roberts..but went ahead anyway. Got a 2 1/2" 100yds. group..still thought it a waste of time..but the next three went into 1 1/4". Next 3 went .900..next went .800 & final 3 shot/clean shooting on same target cut into each other for 3/4". Break-in took 7 1/2 hrs.! Don't want to go thru that again for awhile! But the accuracy improvement was interesting.
Last Sat., I had a few more cases to fire-form & decided to do a rough accuracy check. Using same H4895 & moly-coated Speer 100gr. spitz. I started low and worked up ..at 31,0, 32.0 & 33.0 grs. I was getting 1/2" 3 shot groups at 100yds. I didn't think this too shaby for a 1960's 7X Leupold and a rifle thats not easy to shoot off bags due to fully rounded forearm & crisp but somewhat heavy pull.
During break-in I used Montana Extreem bore solvent & copper cream. The solvent & cream left fouling bright as a new penny but wouldn't remove it until I went in with a tight patch & J-B short stroked thru. Last Sat. I used Bore-Tech Eliminator & Copper Remover. I patched 3-5 thru & 12 passes with tight nylon brush with Eliminator & copper completly gone from lands. Patches still blue (Bore-Tech Proof-Positive rod, jag & brush) I then patched & brushed with copper remover & patched out. patches a lighter blue. I short-stroked J-B & flushed out with Eliminator. Patches now a very light barely stained blue. I am wondering if all this cleaning is necessary? Don't want to put more wear in bore than I have to. What are your thoughts?
 

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i have had great luck with the ai guns in the 250-3000, 257 robt., and 7x57, these cartridges are claimed by ackley to be the best of his guns calibers and that they gain 300 fps, that's a lot and they will do just that..

I also like the 8mm-06 ai simply because the std. 8mm-06 is a wildcat to start with, so might as well get the benefit of more of the same...applies to the 338-06 , 35 whelen etc. As well as any wildcat on the 30-06 case is what we are talking here. Brass will last longer and you will pick up some decent to great velocity with any of them. Its a personal choice for each of us to make, when all is said and done.


ackley did not have a pressure gauge.
 

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There is little if any difference in accuracy between cartridges. The main difference is that the ones that get the most attention from competitive shooters promote the most development from precision gun makers and bullet makers. The squeaky wheel gets the grease.
 

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During break-in I used Montana Extreem bore solvent & copper cream. The solvent & cream left fouling bright as a new penny but wouldn't remove it until I went in with a tight patch & J-B short stroked thru. Last Sat. I used Bore-Tech Eliminator & Copper Remover. I patched 3-5 thru & 12 passes with tight nylon brush with Eliminator & copper completly gone from lands. Patches still blue (Bore-Tech Proof-Positive rod, jag & brush) I then patched & brushed with copper remover & patched out. patches a lighter blue. I short-stroked J-B & flushed out with Eliminator. Patches now a very light barely stained blue. I am wondering if all this cleaning is necessary? Don't want to put more wear in bore than I have to. What are your thoughts?
The boretech Copper specific stuff works good, Cu+2 or whatever it's called. I wouldn't go crazy trying to get it down to bare every metal time. Get 90% out with the boretech and do the deep cleaning every once in a while, say 500 hundred rounds or longer. One thing I would do is keep shooting it till you put 100-200 rounds through it. Unless your starting with a top shelf hand lapped match barrel, it always seems to me that a barrel really starts to sing at around 1-200 rounds depending on the initial quality of the barrel.
 
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