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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A year or two ago I got a Rem 700 in 300 Win that was pretty much a dud accuracy wise. Factory ammo was going 3.5”-4” groups. I tried about everything I could think of, bedding, scope mounts, the usual suspects. I did quite a bit of load development trying different bullets, powders, but even then my groups were over 2” and for me to be happy with it I was wanting 1.5” groups or so at least.

I finally decided to rebarrel and after break in, I identified a charge weight shooting less than an inch with the first bullet/powder I tried and confirmed the results with a couple more groups this afternoon.

Feels good to finally get the problem identified, guess it was just a crap barrel. Anyone else feel like buying factory rifles is a big gamble, never know what you’re going to get?
 

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Interesting timing! First, congrats on working to get what you wanted! It can be very gratifying to work up loads that do what we want then to do.

I also just found a load and bullet for a commercial rifle in 30-06sprg, that I bought awhile ago. Unlike you, I had settled for the 2" to 2.5" groups I was getting. Figured, like you, factory cheapo rifles just can't make the grade, except for a few, that I would never be lucky enough to purchase.

Then I loaded up some Barnes ballistic tip 130 grain TTSX solids, and bought some IMR 4166 specifically for this rifle, that I dedicated to moly coated bullets only, from day one. First three shots yesterday resulted in a 3/4" group.

Now my only problem is the strange difference in point of impact, between this loading and the one I had settled on previously. I would like to shoot both and not break down the first loads. The reason I am considering breaking them down, is, the weird difference in Point of Impact, between the two. Elevation difference I expected, going from 220 grain to 130 grain, but a windage difference took me by surprise. Dealing with the elevation difference is easy enough,... but, I don't look forward to adjusting windage as well, every time I want to switch rounds. I shoot too many different rifles to remember such things.

Again, congrats on accomplishing your loading quest!!!
 

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Elk Whisperer (Super Moderator)
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I'd a had a go at lapping the barrel before condemning it completely. I've "convinced" a couple Remingtons to shoot bugholes after fire lapping.

RJ
 

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Elk Whisperer (Super Moderator)
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shooter444:

Barrel timing is the cause of different POI. 220's are really too long for a 1:10 twist even in my 1917 Remington Enfield which was supposed to shoot them.

RJ
 

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RJ,... I have been shooting Hornady 220 grain SP with a 1:10 twist and excellent results, for many decades. It has been my "do-every-thing" bullet, from subs on up. But, as I posted above, I made this brand spank'n new SS bolt gun, totally dedicated to moly coated bullets. I have never done this before, and maybe your comments are coming into play because of the moly,... as they say,... you don't know, what you don't know!

:giggle:

To be honest, I didn't use the IMR4166 with the 220's, that I got such great results, with the Barnes TTSXBT 130's. I didn't even work up a load for it. I just went by my old loading data used with different rifles. I have a feeling this rifle either likes the IMR4166 powder, or, likes that lighter bullet, or both,... I'll have to look into getting a few more pounds to confirm.
 

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The first thing I do with a factory barrel that won't shoot is have it re-crowned .
A tiny burr or nick ...sometimes in manufacturing , handling , shipping a little bump on the crown will cause just enough displaced metal to cause bad groups . And a lot of times the barrel isn't cut and crowned perfectly 90 degrees to the bore ,,, this lopsided cut gives a lopsided crown and that throws them off .
After a proper cut and crown if it still doesn't shoot ... then I rebarrel ...but 9 times out of 10 the crown is the culprit .
Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd a had a go at lapping the barrel before condemning it completely. I've "convinced" a couple Remingtons to shoot bugholes after fire lapping.

RJ
I could only handle so much frustration and am glad to be rid of it. Next time I might just buy a blueprinted action and have a custom barrel screwed on and be money ahead instead of spinning the factory rifle roulette wheel.
Or I’ll pick up a ruger American for $400 and then be disappointed when it doesn’t shoot 1/2MOA. :)
 

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I could only handle so much frustration and am glad to be rid of it. Next time I might just buy a blueprinted action and have a custom barrel screwed on and be money ahead instead of spinning the factory rifle roulette wheel.
That's a good choice, one that I wish I had done/ started many years ago.

Or I’ll pick up a ruger American for $400 and then be disappointed when it doesn’t shoot 1/2MOA. :)
That's my cousin, he bought a Mini 14 and was pissed it wasn't as accurate as my Colt Match Target AR. I tried to convince him to just get an AR but he didn't want to spend the money on it, (I also think it was because he wanted the "A-Team" rifle). Anyway, he ended up buying and selling (no kidding) 8 Mini-14s. Each time he would call me up and ask me to come over to help him out with them. He finally got the idea, and sold #8 and went and got a cheap AR, I think he paid 600 for it in the early 2000's just as the AR fad was kicking off. He called me up before he opened the box to come over and check out his newest rifle, I figured it was another Mini-14, nope... it was an AR. He had me bring mine over too, but he was PISSED when he started shooting his AR... it was incredibly accurate right out of the box. He spent more in upgrades to all his Mini-14s than this AR cost him, and on top of that he lost more than the cost of the AR in sell off loss totals of the Mini-14s.
 

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A year or two ago I got a Rem 700 in 300 Win that was pretty much a dud accuracy wise. Factory ammo was going 3.5”-4” groups. I tried about everything I could think of, bedding, scope mounts, the usual suspects. I did quite a bit of load development trying different bullets, powders, but even then my groups were over 2” and for me to be happy with it I was wanting 1.5” groups or so at least.

I finally decided to rebarrel and after break in, I identified a charge weight shooting less than an inch with the first bullet/powder I tried and confirmed the results with a couple more groups this afternoon.

Feels good to finally get the problem identified, guess it was just a crap barrel. Anyone else feel like buying factory rifles is a big gamble, never know what you’re going to get?
Good on ya!!! Either bad barrel, shot out, or the rifle simply didn't like the factory ammo because COL, powder, or myriad of other issues. Passable bore scopes can be had for under $100 now days and worth investing in, in my option. Some rifles (all rifle?) can be fickle as to what shoots well in it. Glad you found a good load on first try. Be sure you document all the pertinent load data.
 

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I bought a Rem 700 in 7 mag 1963. Yes really 1963. No matter what the best it would shoot was 1 1/2' TO 2". I tried all kinds of lapping & bedding. Never changed a bit. About 10 yrs ago I bought a take off Rem 7mag stainless barrel . It was advertised as new & unfired. Installed on my action . With out any playing around it shot almost one hole groups . Go figure. Thing is, two barrels come off the assembly one right behind the other . one can be a tack driver , the other a piece of junk.
 
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